6speedSchwinn

Good day, Three of our mountain bikes were stolen this morning (15/3) around 5am. Please keep an eye open for them. Raleign MR5.0 Rockshox Reba front Rockshox Monarch 3.3 rear LX/XT groupset combination Mavic Crossland tubeless rims with new Maxxis Larsen TT tubeless tires Raleigh Nomad Red, black and silver Suntour XCM shock (I think) Alexrims Acera groupset Maxxiss Crossmark and Larsen TT tires Silverback Atomic 24" Yellow and black Shimano Tourney groupset

Good day, I work in Port Shepstone two weeks a month and don't know any MTB trails or riders in the area. It will be great if someone can show me a few routes and if I can meet other riders. I haven't cycled much in the past 5 months so my fitness level is not what it used to be. It will be great to ride with MTB'ers who are willing to do shorter distances (30/40km).

Hi all I've just bought myself a Silverback Zero 3 to commute with. I've been commuting on a Raleigh RM 6.0 for the past 3 years, but I want to cut down on maintenance costs a bit. Anyhow, two days ago I managed to cycle almost to the top of Linksfield Ridge with my new single speed when I snapped the chain. I then bought a new chain, but it doesn't look like it is much stronger. Can any of you recommend a strong but not too expensive single speed chain? I don't want to pay more than R150. Any other recommendations will also be appreciated (except if you want me to get rid of the Zero 3 ) Regards Gideon

Okay, I get around 3000km from a chain, but then it is "kisboude". Maybe it is a bit besides the point, but I've heard of some people using 3 chains and swapping them out every 1000km. In that way the casette wears out slower and the chains also lasts slightly longer. Any truth in that?

What is the name of your LBS? At all the bike shops I went to recently an LX chain is going for R250!

Hi Folk My Mavic Crossland rear wheel is due for replacement. I want to build a custom wheel to replace it with and have already decided on the hub (a 32 spoke hub). I am just not sure about the rim. The current rim can still do many more kms, but it is starting to show tiny cracks at the nipples. I want a tough rim which won't need constant truing (the Crossland has never needed truing in 13500km) and which will give me very high mileage (30000km?). It must also be tubeless. It will be more of an all mountain type rim than cross country. Which rims will offer me what I am looking for? I am not too concerned about weight, but please don't suggest downhill rims .

Hi I was wondering if anybody has some experience with the Raleigh MR (moonraker) dualies? My RM6.0 hardtail broke (again) and I am thinking of paying in a little extra to have the MR5.0 frame instead. I never considered the Raleigh dualies, but when I recently looked at the new MR dualies the build quality was really good and they've reinforced the places where I had concerns. They look much stronger than the old RD bikes. So, does anybody out there have a MR? How does it handle? Has anybody had problems with the new MR? Is it a better bike than the old RD bikes? I will appreciate any information which will assist me in making a good decision. (Don't tell me to buy another brand because it isn't an option at the moment - don't have the cash for it. ) Thanks!

Hi Daantjie Since cost is not an issue, don't you want to buy me a new set also? Mine is due for replacement...

Two of my friends have Anthems and both of them had to get use to it. As your pedal stroke gets smoother the bobbing will get better. But I always say bob is your friend. I rather bob along than have my backside bashed to smithereens.

I tightened the nut that holds the casette body in place and the problem disappeared. Now I have a new problem: this nut keeps on coming loose and I have to tighten it often. What can I use to keep the nut in its place?

Hi there A little while ago the cassette on my Mavic Crossland rear wheel started pushing the chain forward when I was not peddling. I opened the freewheel mechanism, cleaned it, oiled it and that solved it - for a while. Since yesterday the problem is back with a vengeance. I cannot stop peddling because the cassette just keeps on feeding the chain through. I just went to the LBS and told them what is happening. Apparently the free-wheel mechanism needs to be replaced (the 2 springs, the two little metal thingies and the casette body). This is going to cost me R795 in spares alone! Anybody else had trouble like this before? Is it necessary to spend that much to sort it out? Advice? Anything? I must add that I have done 9500km on these wheels and besides cleaning the freewheel mechanism once, I have never had them serviced. They are as true as the day I bought them and I have done two Sani2cs on them. I love these wheels and they have done me great service!

I've done 2 Sani2c's on Kenda Nevegals. They are great in all conditions. They are fast rolling, but not as much as the CrossMarks. In mud they will offer you much more bite than the Maxxis. If you plan on getting a pair you have to start shopping now. With both Sani2c's I struggled to get hold of them just before the race.

Thanks for the help.

And here is the geometry info for the 2008 RM6.0: S (16") M (18") L (20") Frame Size C-T 41cm 46cm 51cm Head Angle A 71 71 71 Seat Angle B 72.5 72.5 73.5 Effective Top Tube C 57cm 58cm 60cm Chain Stay D 425mm 425mm 425mm Wheel Base E 1038mm 1049mm 1080mm BB Drop F 35mm 35mm 35mm Headtube G 120mm 125mm 145mm http://www.raleigh.co.za/UserFiles/Image/rm6_rm4.gif

Here is the geometry info for the 2007 RM6.0: XS S M L Frame Size C-T 381mm (15") 432mm (17") 438mm (19") 533mm (21") Head Angle 71 71 71 71 Seat Angle 73 73 73 73 Top Tube 555mm 575mm 605mm 620mm Chain Stay 425mm 425mm 425mm 425mm Headtube 120mm 120mm 130mm 140mm BB height 35mm 35mm 35mm 35mm Wheel Base 1038mm 1058mm 1088mm 1103,5mm Fork Travel 80mm 80mm 80mm 80mm http://www.raleigh.co.za/UserFiles/Image/rm6_rm4.gif

I bought a 17" Raleigh RM 6.0 in November 2006. Two weeks ago I cracked the frame (after 8100km), so Raleigh is now replacing it with the 2008 RM 6.0 frame. Problem is that the 2007 models came in the sizes 15", 17", 19" and 21". The 2008 models come in 16", 18" and 20". Which 2008 frame size will be the correct one to replace my 17" frame with? I can only find the geometry info on the 2008 models, so I can't do the comparison myself. The 17" was already slightly small, so I would prefer to go one inch up rather than going smaller.

Is it only me or is Maxxis using a softer compound for their TTs nowadays? The wear I see after about 500km compares with about 1000km on my previous set. (And no, I haven't gained weight since then...)

My bicycle came with Larsen TT USTs. They lasted about 5000km including a lot of tar riding (commuting to work). At 2500km I took them off and put Kenda Nevegals on for the Sani2c. The Larsens were still fine inside - no bubbles or anything like that. The Nevegals lasted about 1200km and then I put the TTs on again. This time I added Stans. When I bought the Stans the guy at the bike shop told me that it "eats" the rubber very slowly, but if you ride often you will wear out the tyres before Stans has messed them up. Sure enough, when I took the TTs off after about 5000km there were bubbles between the tread and casing. If the shop owner is right, the bubbles are due to the Stans and is not a problem with the Maxxis themselves. Has anyone who does not use Stans have had these bubbles on Maxxis? When I used slyme it did not happen... And by the way: the Kenda Nevegals are great tyres for the Sani2c. They are rather heavy, but I haven't had any problems with them.

I replaced mine at 2500km before the Sani2c but there was still a lot of life in them. Just did not want to take a chance in the race. The new set now has 3000km on and are still fine. I have Avid Juicy 5 disks brakes.

I replaced my shifter cables this week and my RM6.0 now feels like a brand new bike. In fact, if feels lighter and faster too So I started wondering: how often should disk brakes be bled and rotors be replaced? I bought my Raleigh last year November and I have now done 5430km on it. I haven't serviced the brakes at all except for replacing the pads once at 2500km. And while we are at it: how often should the cleats on my cycling shoes be replaced?

The chain is not carbon fibre...

I would also go for a roof rack. I've dented my car with one of those boot mounted thingies...