BrettS

as @thebob said, that is total rubbish. They seem to not know what they are doing, they must have put the shock back incorrectly.

Super impressive! Holding that pace for an hour. What an achievement Ellen and team.

Keen to know what drive trains these were? If my calculations are correct the GX drive train (cranks and all) would be roughly R100 per km if it only lasted 100km.

I somewhat agree hahaha not enough time has passed for me to look back on it with a smile.

I tried hahaha I like to be prepared. The weather definitely foiled my preparations, I would have done a heck of a lot better if it was dry.

Starting to really get your point of views. Definitely feel obligated to go. Suck it up and get the medal but end up paying in the long run. The only good thing I could take away from doing events and having to go - you get to ride places you ordinarily wouldn't.

Thanks for that Chad, I had tried to revitalise a thread from last year - Nobody seemed to bite - I watched some videos on YT but they were all completed in the damn sunshine!

Without having ridden the trails before how would you know what to expect or how to plan the ride? For instance, the next one is Legends MX, I have never ridden there, (1st prize would obviously be to go and ride it) but it's difficult to be prepared for ever changing conditions? Does one just go into it with whatever setup you have and whatever happens, happens? Side note: I'm a serious race noob, this was only my 2nd race. I always try and push myself but this race seriously deflated me.

That was caused by tyre rub? You just have to keep tabs on it to make sure it doesn't crack or get progressively worse?

Thanks for the lols! Listing it as 'brand new' right now!

The bike comes specked with 2.4 tyres from Scott, so I don't think that is the case. I have done about 800km with the bike through mostly Northern farms mud with the 2 sets of 2.4 tyres (the original Schwalbe and new Maxxis) there has never been any wear on the chainstays. The mud we rode through at Buffels was like clay (pictures below) my tyres looked exactly like the gents in the photo, sidewalls are caked in the mud, you can see in the other pic stones are picked up and stay within the mud and I think this was like sandpaper on the frame.

Thanks for all the help guys, really appreciate it. Going to get a narrower rear tyre. I have gloss black rustoleum at home so will give that a bash. Next will be nail polish. Any idea what would have happened if it was carbon?

Thanks Rolf. I tried google but perhaps I am searching with the wrong phrases. Is there any point at which one can wear right through the aluminum? How far is too far and it just becomes flimsy?

Okay great, that's a relief. I swapped out the original Schawlbe wicked wills and put a brand new set of 2.4 maxxis tyres on 😂 looks like I have to get a different set of tyres for different riding conditions.

Hahaha definitely cannot avoid the mud but at certain points in the ride my wheels completely locked up. It looked like I was riding a fat bike. Only have my 30mm rims so couldn't switch anything prior to the race + it had only rained the night before 😋

Is it okay to just leave the raw aluminum exposed like that?

Hey all, looking for some advice and/or to find out if this is common? I assume the damage was caused by mud and stones that were caked to my tyres. It was really bad at Buffels on Saturday. Removed my rear wheel today to give it a thorough clean and noticed the raw aluminum. Any idea what can be done?

Going through Matts setup on his Sworks Crux, does anyone know what saddle he is using? Edit: managed to find it - it is a thing of beauty!! https://www.cyclingweekly.com/products/specialized-introduces-mirror-3d-printed-tech-to-romin-evo-saddle

Hopefully we can revive this thread, I am doing the half marathon (40km) this Saturday. Anyone ridden buffelsdrift lately? Course conditions? Trying to predict whether I am going to puncture badly haha

Looked like a really well organised event! Will have to try get some more miles in to sit in the saddle for 6 hours. Well done to all who entered and completed.

I have purchased from Waseem (The Bike Garage) he was great. Very honest when I was looking at buying my 1st dual suspension. I wasn't sure what to look for and he helped a lot. I don't think you can go wrong with the Titan, it was on my list of bikes to purchase but alas couldn't find my size at the time. Edit: not sure on the courier fees - I picked the bike up from him.

Recently upgraded from a cheapy hardtail to the Spark 970 have done a few upgrades since receiving it. Silverton 2.0 wheels (Birthday gift) Full GX conversion as well. I think faster rolling tyres and a Syncros Fraser IC SL XC 740mm carbon bar are next.

Thanks so much, I have a long way to go haha feel like i'm throwing myself into the deep end a little but I like a good challenge. Going to be a busy Saturday fetching tools and parts but will be totally worth it in the end IF I get it right. I'm not onto the carbon stuff just yet, need to let me wallet get a little fatter hopefully next year!

Thanks so much, that gives me a little bit of hope. I was planning on popping into a store to buy some additional tools as I will swapping the whole groupset over. Perhaps I will just strip the groupsets I have and take the new crank and frame so I can make sure I get the right BB. Will be a fun project.

I'm going to purchase a new groupset (2nd hand) Shimano SLX, it is a 2 x 10 system. The package comes with a crankset which is quite nice but I am unsure whether this will fit into my bottom bracket? The specs on the frame says I have a cartridge type BB - according to the Shimano site recommended BB is BB-UN300-K (for currently installed crankset) The BB specs for the new crankset are - SM-BB71-41A or SM-BB70. Currently installed crank is a Shimano FC-M371 and the new crank will be a Shimano FC-M677. Will I be able to swap them out easily? Do I need to purchase something additional to make it work? or is it not possible?