Melch

Thanks for the replies. I ended up fabricating a spacer for the freehub and it has been working well since.

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Hey guys Saw this ad on gumtree. Looks a very cheep to me but might just be an old bike, I might just be out of the loop on what these go for. The seller also seems disinterested in the specs which is odd to me. Pics are not that clear but if you know someone who has had one stolen have a look. If you know this is a legitimate post feel free to mention it and ill take this down. http://www.gumtree.c...610910196831709

Hey guys. Thanks for the response.

Hi Guys I am looking at getting a new DH frame. The options available at the moment seem to be mostly Giant Glory frames, 2008 and 2010/11. Where there major improvements between these two models or not really? On a separate note does anyone have any input on the sizing of a Giant frames compared to the Raliegh RDH7, it came in only one size. I am 1.73 m tall ride a M cannondale XC bike and it fits well. I assume the giant medium would fit me best, there just seem to be a lot of small frames available. Wondering if one of these could also work for me or if I will regret it later. Thanks in advance for the advice.

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Skylark, I did not change rotor sizes. It seems the spacing on the rotor has changed. Thanks for the link TopFuel.

Hi I recently bought a DT swiss x1600 wheelset. It has a splined hub. The hub looks the same as the DT swiss 240 hub but I cant find exact details on the hubs used for these wheels. The freehub spins freely when not mounted in the bike but as soon as I place any pressure on the QR the free hub tightens up and does not spin, the chain goes completely slack. Has anyone had similar problems with DT swiss hubs before and found a solution to the problem. Thanks for the help

Hi Guys I have a cannondale F700, circa 2002. It still has the original Julie Magura brakes on and until recently had the original Coda Expert hubs. I broke the rear axle, had it replaced for R600 and then it broke again within three rides. Decided to get a new set of wheels as the original ones were not in great condition and probably not worth spending any more money on. Anyway the alignment on the rear disk is completely out. I need about a 6 mm spacer to get the disk calliper properly aligned with the rotor. On the front wheel I need about a 1 mm spacer which seems more reasonable. Does anyone know if this is a cannondale issue, a Magura issue or if the standards for IS disk brakes or rotor position on the hub has changed since my bike came out around 2002. Thanks for the advice.

Does anyone have any experience servicing DT swiss splined hubs, What grease do you when servicing and any suggestions as to who would stock the special DT-Swiss grease, I stay in cape town. Read on for more information if you want but not essential ########################################### I recently bought a DT Swiss X1600 wheelset second hand, it looks in very good condition. It uses the ratchet hub. Anyway when I reinserted the QR it pushed the freehub body off the hub and the internal components fell out landing on the floor. I was very surprised to see how little force it took to do this. I had not opened one before so took a bit of fiddling to get everything back together properly. However, by the time I had put the system back together correctly most of the grease had rubbed off the ratchet system. The free hub spins freely when not mounted on the bike but any clamping force from the QR causes the free hub to stiffen up to the point that the chain goes completely slack when spinning the wheel. I am hoping I just need to re-grease the internals to sort this out. DT swiss recommend you use their special, very pricey "grease", on the ratchet hubs. I have done a bit of research and know normal grease is to tacky to work. There are a couple of options for alternatives, most involve thinning down cheaper greases that is more readily available. Or you can buy the stuff DT Swiss uses by the liter for the same price you pay for 20 g but that seems a bit of an overkill as 20 g of the stuff lasts people quite a while. Just wondering what people use.

I have wanted a DJ bike for a while. I do a bit of XC and DH riding. I would like a DJ bike to get more comfortable on jumps. I have had a quick look on gumtree GT chucker for around R3500. GT rucker for around R5000. Mongoose fireball R1500, anyone recognise the bike in the pic, the price sounds a bit to low to me. New I can get Mongoose fireball for R5000 Commencal Absolut Max Max, R5500 Gt Chucker 1, Just under R5000. I was wondering what peoples opinions are on DJ bikes, new or second hand? All my other bikes have been second hand and it has worked out well for me so I will probably go that route but I also know DJ bikes take quite a beating. On a different not I live in Cape Town, not to far from the UCT DJ track. Are there any other places I can ride or is that about all there is in the Southern suburbs. thanks in advance for the advice

I opened it up today and saw the bottom out protector spring is about 25mm long. It is fairly stiff so I dont think it would of compressed to far while I was compressing the shock. I will check the oil levels again though.

Hey guys. I have heard you get spacers that you can insert to limit travel and thought the guy I bought it from might of used one. I opened it up today. There is a very firm 25mm long spring that acts as a bottom out protector. This is what was limiting the travel while I was trying to compress it. Now I just have to get the shock back together Going to replace all the seals while I have it apart so not a complete waste of time.

Hey Guys I was servising by 2006 Rock Shox boxer race today. At one stage when I had removed the spring I tried to compress the fork and could only get about 175mm travel out of it. I was wondering if this is normal or if I should be able to compress the fork the full 200mm with the spring removed Thanks in advance for the help

Cool video. Where are the trails shown in the beginning of the video?

Hey Guys I was servising by 2006 Rock Shox boxxer race today. At one stage when I had removed the spring I tried to compress the fork and could only get about 175mm travel out of it. I was wondering if this is normal or if I should be able to compress the fork the full 200mm with the spring removed. Thanks in advance for the help.

Hey Marius, you are right about the Mavic rims. Not sure how I missed that. CRC also has some sun ringle DH rims. They stock a 31mm and a 33mm version. Do you guys no what width rims you are running? Not sure which one to get, the 33mm is out of stock so if I want to order soon that solves that problem. I had a look at superstar components but all there rims are 32 hole and I ned 36 hole. Anyway they look like they worth keeping in mind for next time.

I was looking for body armour a while ago, in the end I managed to get an azonic pressure suit second hand off the hub and a friend bought me back some 661 knee guards and troy lee design moto gp riding pants from the uk, I amm happy with what I got. It is the only stuff I have used though so cant really give much input there. MTBR is great for reviews if you have not already used them. As Delgado said look in motor cross shops, they have a much whider selection than the bicycle shops. Also if ordering from crc or somewhere else outside the country be aware that customs might clasify the pressure suit it as clothing and add 40% import duties. Not sure what the duties will be on other items.

Hey Guys I need to replace the rims on my DH bike. They are cracking through where they were welded and I think it is time they were replaced. I was wondering who in Cape Town would stock something like that If anyone has suggestions about places to try or what rims to get that would be helpfull as well. I was considering getting Mavic 2012 EX729 Disc Rims from CRC if I cant find something similar locally. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=71053 . The reviews on MTBR sounded good. Anyway thanks in advance for the help.

Hey Pittstop How did you find Paarl? I really enjoyed the track last time I went.

Clips allow you to pull up on the petals when you are sprinting helping with power transfer. They also help keep your feet on the pedals through the very rough sections. Flats are great for when you want to get your feet on and off the pedals quickly when cornering. I have not done much DH riding, I have ridden flats and cleats, now use cleats but mainly because I dont have proper shoes to use with flat pedals.

I have not riden road in years. I used to ride 172.5mm cranks. I used to do some training at sports science on a stationary bike with power output meter. They had bikes with 170, 172.5 and 175mm cranks and I used to switch between them because the bikes got moved around and I was two lazy to get down on my hands and knees and check which cranks were on which bike. I found my default cadance was a little lower than normal with the longer cranks while the shorter cranks were easier to spin at near my upper cadance limit. Other than that I dont remember it making a difference to the effort required for a specific power output but that is not something you would be able to pick up riding from one day to another anyway.

Good luck. I know how you feel. My arm has just come out of a cast after 6 weeks, will only be back on a bike nexy year again though. Dont tush the recovery to much.

Hey Just saw this question now so I guess you can answer your own questions now. What did you think of the trails?

I cant ride for the next 6 weeks or so due to an injury but am really keen to join you guys if you do this again. Paarl is a cool track and easy to shuttle on. Enjoy