anthemboy

Nice video and a good review on their site as well. Looks like I will have to start digging into the flexi-bond again soon..

Well I finally stopped using mine. Since I got it, I've had the worst 2 months of my cycling career. Coincidence?, maybe, but it did not make me feel or perform better, so why bother. I gave it a fair chance, but like I thought intially, nothing more than snake oil!! Good money wasted...

The elastic one where you can replace the battery. The sealed plastic one is far better.

The Polar HR strap is useless. My 705 has not missed a beat in the last 10mths! Great tool.

At a local race recently there were some sales people marketing Power Balance holograms. See https://www.powerbalance.net/ They did demonstrations on how it improves your balance and core strength. I am always sceptical on these type of things but was impressed on how it changed my resistance to losing my balance. Everyone who has not tried it will shout "Snake oil" but those who have, reckons it works. Anyone tried it?

I found it on the net this morning and thought it would be the safest to use. It is of medium strength where the 603 and 638 is of high strength. PRODUCT DESCRIPTION<?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> LOCTITE? 641 provides the following product characteristics: Technology Acrylic Chemical Type Methacrylate Ester Appearance (uncured) Yellow liquidLMS Fluorescence Negative Components One component - requires no mixing Viscosity Medium Cure Anaerobic Secondary Cure Activator Application Retaining Strength Medium LOCTITE? 641 is designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts, particularly where disassembly is required for service operations. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration. Typical applications include retention of bearings onto shafts and into housings.

We only have the 638 (green) at work at the moment. Will try and find the 603 somewhere. PS: Will I be able to remove the bearing again when it needs replacement?anthemboy2009-10-15 01:09:24

Am I missing the point here? I you look at the photo of the bolt, bearing and sleeve, it seems that the only thing which keeps the bearing and the rear triangle from moving .5mm sideways, is the press fit of the bearing? Of course the distance of this movement will be determined by the gap between the rear triangle and the pivot triangle. So would green loctite then help here to keep the bearing in place? anthemboy2009-10-14 07:35:40

My bike with the stainless bolts are fine for now. The play I found was on my wife's bike which is new. The bearing is not very tightly fit. I can push it out with my finger. It also moves in and out with about 0.5mm when pressed into place. It worries me that the bolt is not clamping the bearing inner.I appears that I would need to put a shim between the bolt head and the bearing inner to increase the clamp load. I measured the sleeve spacer length and it was the same as the spare ones I have.

I'm not sure. I will ask my mech this afternoon. I was checking the wifes new anthem (3 months old - older version frame) out on Saturday. It had a creaking noise when pushing down on the suspension. I eventually tracked it down to the same bearing on the left hand side as in my picture. When pulling and pushing the back wheel from side to side, the bearing moves in and out, making a clicking noise. It seems that the bolt, even though it is tight, is not clamping the bearing. It seems a washer between the bolt head and the bearing is necessary. Couldn't believe it!

That's interesting since my shock was serviced 2 weeks ago in Cape Town and I can easily remove the reducers.

Hi 20niner, thanks for the info. I checked last night by removing the frong shock bolt and swinging the shock. You are right. The alloy reducers are stationary and the shock revolves around them. Do you have to grease/lubricate that teflon coated bush or just keep it clean?

Also check this thread on the rear shock. My rear shock bushes came loose and made one hell of a noise. Basically they were turing in the shock pivot instead of the bolt pivoting inside the bushes. https://www.bikehub.co.za/forum_posts.asp?TID=62567&PID=940631#940631

The bearings are still good. They were replaced some time ago. The rear shock was services 2 weeks ago and new bushes were fitted. I also fitted new sleeves/spacers on the bolts last night.

I think I found the problem. While I was fitting the new stainless steel bolts, I notice the spacer/sleeve which sits between the bearing and the pivot triangle did not fit onto the bolt. It also made a very tight fit onto the original bolt. The coating on the old bolt was also damaged. This sleeve is pinched between the pivot triangle and the bearing and if it fits tightly onto the bolt, this might create the ratchet effect which turns the bolt loose. Obviously towards the end, the bolt came loose more often and damaged the bolt more. That's why it only took 2 rides to loosen the bolt at the end. I fortunately had 2 new sleeves and they slid easily onto the new bolts. I will test the new setup over the weekend.anthemboy2009-10-07 05:37:35

That equates to roughly 60hours on average. Normally front shocks are supposed to be serviced every 80hours, so I've heard. So this might be a bit premature after 60hours. My shock also leaked a small amount of oil when removing the shock pump. I don't think it is such a big deal. Better be safe than sorry. My 1st service after 2.5 years cost R375. I should have done it more regularly I suppose.

It's this one: anthemboy2009-10-07 05:44:16

I understand what you mean. I will have a close look when I re-assemble the bike, hopefully this evening. Spoke to my mechanic as well who services a few other Anthems and I'm the only one with the problem.

I have a regular problem with the rear pivot triangles on my Anthem. The left hand side bolt, which holds the triangle to the rear top swing arm keeps coming loose. Even when fitted with loctite. This bolt broke off when the bike was 8months old. I had to buy the whole kit to replace both bolts. After 2-3 rides the left hand side bolt would be loose. After this weekend's Harkerville rides the bolt was loose again and the thread came out when I retightened it. We are now fitting sleeves and stainless bolts. Am i the only one with this problem?

Ja well, the soles on my SIDI's are separating after 8 months and the agents tells me: sorry, wear and tear, buy a new pair of shoes. Sure, I will, guess what, NOT SIDI's. Anything can break, but if the back up service is snotty, go somewhere else. My el' cheapo Olympics lasted longer than this crap!

Not cheap. Are they that good? No....they are better!! I used mine for the first time on Trans Baviaans this year. I was smiling all the way. My partners had Blackburn X5's.. They looked like 2 dim candles in comparison.

What is the price range here? Last I heard they were around R4500-00. I used the Sigma Evo-X before the Revelation3. The EVO-X on the helmet and the Evo on the handle bar. I ran 2 batteries. They were fine for single track night racing. Revelation is just on a different level alltogether and you only charge it now and again. The sigma has to be charged before every race.

Just contact Johannes and order a Revelation3. You won't be sorry! http://www.brighter-lights.com/revelation-3.htm