Daxiet

Thanks Schwynn - will make this mod in the interim. Always wondered about that Auto wheel size setting

Edman, Yes the more I think about it the more I am inclined to agree the % error on GPS reading is negligable (however tree issue definetly noted a decline on speed entering over grown areas, rectified upon exit). Plus I know most races distances are never spot on. That said, I am tired of compensating for bugs that shouldn't be there on the Garmin. But can see I am going to have to drop the use of the speed sensor on my GSC10. Yet another compromise. Daxiet2009-06-11 01:42:45

Wow, Avnic support tell me the GSC10 is not used to pickup speed, says the unit only uses GPS for speed tracking.... They must have provided me with the spoke mount magnet just to balance my rear wheel. Plus the manual to setup the GSC10 must be wrong, because it clearly tells you how to setup the speed sensor which according to Avnic doesn't exist.

Edman It does have a weekly bath, last bath was the weekend before the issue. If the GSC10 is not water resistant then I think Garmin should remove themselves from the MTB sector. In most races there is bound to be water crossings, considering where the sensor is place it is bound to experience water exposure. But thanks for the info. Things I wish I knew before buying a Garmin. See the Avnic support guys have responded, will see what they have to say.

How does it suddenly know you no longer are using the Speed sensor and switch to GPS? I was cruising at one stage at around 40kph then looked down and was suddenly clocking 0kph. I don't see how it would suddenly know to switch to GPS tracking. Perhaps when you first turn the 705 on and it picks up the first rotation of the wheel it enables the Speed sensor for the period that the 705 is on? As for accuarcy, I sometimes use the 705 on my road bike which hasn't got the cadence and speed sensor. Compared to the cycle computer on it and the race organisers distances, the Garmin is roughly short by 3kms / 100kms. Keep in mind for it to calculate your speed, it needs to accuarately calculate your rate of climb or descent/forward speed to get a true speed. Altitude change is never going to be perfectly measured hence it has to make mistakes in speed calculation.

Yes

Really getting tired of the Garmin glitches, but here goes my problem, anyone had similar or have a viable solution: I was busy with a lengthy ride on Sat, during the ride the speed sensor stopped picking up a couple times, by 130kms the speed sensor no longer worked at all. Cadence was fine, but no more speed readings. Adjusted the speed sensor so that the magnet basically touches the sensor each time is passes and still no joy. The magnet is perfectly aligned with the little line on the speed sensor. I have pulled the battery out and re-inserted, pressed the little white button to test it. Red light comes on for Cadence on each pass, Green light doesn't come on for speed. Can hear the magnetic switch inside the sensor clicking on each pass of the magnet.

I have used Maxxis Crossmarks for the past year, they have been very good, but not ideal for muddy conditions. I have now put on the Continental heavily punted config of Front -Mountain King (good for mud/rocks) and Rear - Raceking (good for soft sand, soft on hardpack, pretty much like the Crossmarks). That said the front tyre does not handle soft on hardpack, very unstable on such terrain and results in the front slipping out a lot. Right now I would recommend Crossmarks all round.

Glad to hear you are happy with the Raleigh. As for your comment about never going back to HT, that spoils my day. I am very seriously contemplating going from my Scott MC40 to a nice very light HT. Off topic, but what HT were you riding?Daxiet2009-06-08 01:35:03

Stop being a naf, ride in the wet! Only pulling your socks... Glad to see you are becoming an active member on the Hub. Just remeber as I have said before, get a decent trainer if you're going to do this. Giant/RavX are not worth the effort, my Giant is purely used for bike setup because that little roller provides no real resistance.

I know the feeling, I was very anti-Raleigh a few months back saying they are still over priced even with the huge specials available now. Plus believed they were under spec'd. Looking at them now and comparing to what is out there I see the HT's are very well spec'd and their prices are very competative - eating my words...

No need to find it hard, just is the case. Raleigh have had some bad publicity of late, but in 2008 their bikes were hard to beat. http://www.raleigh.co.za/bikes.php?rangeid=21&bikeid=148&year=2008#spec Otherwise you can find them on Pg 2 as mentioned, I did spend a lot of time typing them to prove the point. Daxiet2009-06-04 07:33:20

Raleigh wins hands down on components. Do yourself a favour compare components. Mongoose - Deore Octalink Internal BB (OLD) Raleigh - LX External BB much better spec Mongoose - Rockshox Monarch 2.1 (can't compete with Fox) Raleigh - Fox Float R Mongoose - SLX RD Raleigh - XT RD Mongoose - Mavix 117's Deore Hubs (entry level, heavy no eyelets) Raleigh - DT Swiss X430 Deore Hubs (decent) Mongoose - Juicy 3 brakes (Deore equiv.) Raleigh - LX Brakes (better) Mongoose - Deore FD Raleigh - LX FD Mongoose - Frame Alu 6061 Raleigh - Frame Alu 7005 Mongoose - Rockshox Tora 302 Air Raleigh - Rockshox Recon Race Air with Poploc and Remote Lockout (personally believe a newer technology shock,higher on the food chain than Tora). Don't get me wrong Mongoose make some awesome well priced bikes, but these two bikes are not in the same league. The Raleigh is the better bike here. Daxiet2009-06-03 00:05:37

Yup, my vote is wheelset.

Just something more to note, the 08 Marathons are smaller sizes than most. But what has been said thus far is spot on. 1st check that the seat height can accomodate you without exceeding the min. mark on the seat post. Then check that you feel comfortable with your profile seat to handle bars. You must not feel like a bear on a kids bike. I would say the avg. 1.78m rider should fit fine on a M 08 Marathon, probably on the verge of warranting a large. On the subject of replacing the stem with a longer than standard stem, the catch is control is degraded. The shorter the stem the better the control. Daxiet2009-06-02 02:41:07

I was happy with the water points, water point 1 was probably a waste, if you need to stop that soon, well ... Not going to say much about the technical side of things, was a bit drawn out after a while, not much free flowing single track, so while I enjoy the challenges of rocks I too enjoy some speed, not just flying down breedtsnek which I do almost every weekend (yawn). Soft sand also got a bit boring/frustrating. My training route during the week entails plenty soft sand, but when someone falls or stops in front of you in it, you have little chance of continuing. So all in all not a highlight on my MTB calendar. The fact that the last couple kms lead to plenty encounters with back marking 45km riders was equally frustrating especially on the long cement path. The locked gate exiting Utopia forcing a bottlenek to form while one rider at a time snuck through the fence was a stuff up. Someone should have checked the route before the race began to ensure all was good to go. Tough race for sure and if you need to brush up on your technical skills go for the 75km ride will stand you in good sted for the remainder of the year.

Did I get your repsonse to SwissVan's query wrong,do you feel any play on the wheel, up down or sideways? Only if you have play will tightening the cones resolve it.

Just a couple questions, is the fork 100% stable leg wise? (grasping with this question). Considering the most obvious cause being a lose or faulty hub seems to be dispelled with the sideways play test that SwissVan queried. It really seems to be an odd problem. Also a disc brake system should force in any particular direction as the rotor is mounted to the hub. The only play it could work with is play in the hub. Further more a rotor would bend more than a wheel would if the brake allignment was off. You have a strange problem on your hands I would say. Daxiet2009-05-27 06:53:21

T-Junction = 0km Alt on the day I have recored = 1468m. From T-junction to base of real climb = ~3km Alt. 1562m Base of real climb to summit = ~2km Alt. = 1708m Again Altitude varies with barometric pressure, however it is fairly safe to say from T-junction to Summit = 240m. The real work is the other side! Gradient on Real climb ~9-11%. Gradient on the other side goes up to 13% at times, but that climb is ~4km from the little stream at the bottom. Note: Ignore the -gradients reported decending the otherside. Edge 705 has many weaknesses, one of which is measure gradient on fast descents. The max gradient when climbing was reported at 13%. http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii273/daxiet/BreedtsJhb-Rtb.jpg Daxiet2009-05-25 01:35:09

Forget not people the Seal kit includes new crush washers, these can be re-used but sometimes they may not work again and will leak. Hence safer for LBS to replace with new kit. Can't source crush washers alone. As for seals, dirt wears against them, they will eventually die. Plus the wiper sponges will equally not last forever. So what I am saying is you will need a new seal kit every so often. Not just an evil LBS trying to make money.Daxiet2009-05-22 07:00:40

Please do: Fox owners need 7.5W. We can get 5W, 10W and 15W. So can you work out the ratio for 5W and 15W to = 7.5W. Mamapara and I would be very grateful. This said there are a number of source on the web that disagree with your non-linear statement.Daxiet2009-05-22 06:56:12

~R550 is fair if seals are being replaced. Yes they can be cleaned and re-used. Most LBS's choose to replace.