Daxiet

1st - check the seat angle it may be a little nose high. 2nd - I am a firm believer in using a seat with a cut away to keep the vital pipes/veins unobstructed. I ride with a Sella Italia C2 Gel Flow - been good for me, but doesn't mean it will work for everyone. Saw a couple Specialized saddles on Tuesday, they seem to be very well priced compared to Fizzik/Sella and apparently have been designed in conjunction with Urologists, etc. (Good sales pitch at least). What seat do you currently have, in many if not most cases the orginal seat put on by the manufacturer is just for show. Very light to make you feel happy about the bikes weight but at the cost of comfort (Plastic with a thin cheap covering ). Daxiet2009-07-23 00:50:22

I think both are on a par as far as service costs go. Rather look at which better suites your requirements and how much you are willing to spend. The Fox F100 basic service is a cake walk to DIY. Just not sure how easy the equivalent Rockshox are to service. I will need to re-attend JB's workshop now that I am on a Rockshox SID and only then will know.

I'm not sure if I had a similar issue. I had an issue on the back of the leg upper calf to below knee, more to the outside of the leg (left leg, so back of leg, but to the left side). Same as you describe, not impacted by any other activity, I think long drives with my heavy clutch also got it excited. I couldn't do 30 mins riding and it would be in full flight equally resulting in power loss on the left leg. If this matches up with your complaint, let me know I will then go into the long recovery path. Daxiet2009-07-22 07:29:07

I use the pump, seems to be less messy and probably lubes the pump - bonus! Otherwise whip out your socket and repeat the application of gearbox oil . Seriously, I somehow think the pump stops the excessive loss of lube (you know you only have 5ml in your Fox, not much to go around)

If 183 is the Max you have reached to date, keep it as your max and yes work on 70% of that. To train for endurance, try operate at around 70-75%. That said you need to play in both the 80-90% range and 90-100% to improve all round. Plus many hills may force you especially when unfit into the 80-90% bracket. Racing will too. So embrace it.

At 1.7 you have long legs. That aside, you would probably be best on a Medium, Silverback Smalls (have a Small Alphine frame that I built up for my wife - like a BMX) are very small and from what I have heard the Silverback range are smaller than usual frames. Alas don't know the 2007 Nabraska, know the 2008 was an excellent buy. 2008 I am sure was quite an upgrade on the 2007, that said I would say a 2008 Nabraska should retail 2nd hand @ ~R6000-R6500 (new last year you could get them as cheap as R7500). The 2008 Dakota was also a good bike and they seem to retail on the 2nd hand market for R5000.00 (Considering at some stage last year you could get it new for R5.5K makes that quite a good resale value). Daxiet2009-07-16 13:53:30

For that price 2nd hand is definetly the best option, but I think you'll struggle to find anything like a TFS500D for that price. Ideally in that bracket, a Silverback Alphine 2008, Raleigh Namib or similar. If you see a disk brake bike in and around 3.5-4K take it and run.

I have a Trapizium I used to use before my Thule Prorides, not a bad towbar mount rack, still use it for my road bike, but not my MTB (It's too important to scratch in transit ). I think if you want something very bike friendly, go for Thule, they aren't the cheapest but they're less likely to do damage to your bikes paint work and their build quality is excellent. Daxiet2009-07-16 13:35:03

Bought from racing Goose - 100% deal Sold to Wernervdmerwe - hope he was happy with the buy, never had any complaints.

With Mampara on this, call Pieter at Probike on their PE number. To my knowledge he handles warranties amongst other things. In general feedback unless you call is very limited. I have been dealing with them on a warranty issue and so far so good, I shipped the faulty part back last week Wednesday and the replacement has arrived back this morning. The part in question is not a cheap part, yet they have turned around under warranty very quickly.

What are your requirements? If you don't need GPS plotting, then possibly go with the Polar range, they can provide route profiles using a barometric pressure sensor same method as used in the Garmins. The only benefit of Garmin is you can get a route plotted on a map showing where you've been. From what I've heard the 305 hasn't got the greatest battery life, 705 is fine so far. I have had plenty issues with my 705, but am unsure if the Polar or similar are any better. Polar however doesn't require recharging and I think in general the battery lasts 1 year. Garmin's GSC10, speed and cadence sensor is evidently not waterproof and dies if exposed over time (corrosion). Search through the Tech Q&A posts for more detail. Plus GSC10 is a single device, meaning your speed pickup will be off the back wheel, because is needs to be close to the pedals for cadence. Polar to my knowledge have a speed sensor you can mount front or back and a separate cadence sensor.

When it comes to gloves I always go for a snug fit - gloves will stretch a bit as well. Perhaps different brands will differ in finger length/width. But you want them to fit like a glove .

Cateye's differ, some come with a nice bracket that is adjustable, some are simply a tube and a piece that cable ties onto the fork post. I have the simple one with no fancy bracket, the best way I have found to get it working is to only use 1 cable tie through the top slot, thus forcing the tip of the sensor towards the spokes. Very reliable.

Not on the hub (and not the website either), just closer too. The speed of the magnet passing the sensor is slower the closer the magnet is placed to the hub, hence accuracy should be better.

I recommend the front wheel, but if you buy a Garmin the Cadence and Speed sensor are 1 hence back wheel used for speed. The catch I have found with the back wheel is you wheel spin it a lot in mud, soft sand and your back wheel is prone to locking much more than the front under braking. To getting the spacing right depends on the computer you have bought. I normally mount the sensor closer to the hub as the spokes are closest to the fork at this point. NOTE: Using GPS has depending on terrain a loss of ~2km/50km travelled. More steep climbing and descending the greater the error. been forced to operate without my GSC10 on the Garmin for more than a month now and have confirmed GPS descrepencies. Included is the occasional speed decrease passing under trees. Daxiet2009-07-13 06:03:19

Who is the techie you're dealing with. I have had plenty fun with Avnic's techinical department. In some regards they are quite clued up in others could be fooled into believing they've never worked with the device. As for repairs, the tech guys here seem to just be product "experts" eg. know what it can do (in most cases), how to set it up, but don't get involved with screw drivers, soldering irons and the like. You need to find someone higher up the food chain in Avnic who cares about the company image/profile who in turn may make a plan for you. Daxiet2009-07-07 06:29:58

MTB or Road? Road - Hekpoort Hill (could get squashed however while climbing because the road is very narrow for the most part) The climbing starts quite a bit back from the serious gradient climb. However the major climb is longer than Krugersdorp hill. This hill works well on MTB because you can use the very rough rock/grass verges.

A question (just to clarify, because it is unlikely the Magura brakes have non-standard mounting points) 1. Did you remove the caliper from the adapter, or did you unbolt the entire adapter and caliper as one? Reason: The rear stays have 2 holes on them for mounting the adapter to, then the brake caliper is bolted onto this. So if you've unbolted just the caliper a mounting bracked should still be bolted to the rear stays. A photo is worth a thousand words, if you could take a snap or two it would help. If you have 165mm rotors then the adapter that was on your bike would be a 165mm specific adapter, these mount points should be standard, if not glad I don't have Magura's.

Love my Fox (F100 RLC), lock out is soild as a rock based on feel, however if you really watch the stanchions you will see some movement. I played with a new Merida on Saturday with a Rockshox SID Race and the lock out did not have nearly as solid a feel to it. That said sometimes a fork needs to be compressed a couple times before the lockout operates at optimal performance - applies to both Fox and Rockshox at least. On the Coil Sprung vs. Air sprung resulting is different lockout quality, I don't agree. The air spring on the Fox is on the left (no bearing on lockout mech.) the Rebound,compression and lockout are on the right. These features all make use of oil. Hence no bearing on air or coil spring. The same applies to Rockshox, left leg air, right leg rebound, compression and lockout. Both legs have oil.

Thanks Edman

Yes heart monitor does give plenty issues. On Sunday I was going downhill and went from a 60% MHR to 85% MHR at which point I reseated the belt and the HR dropped back to 60% odd. Also had a couple 120-140% MHR readings due to this issue. Was just wondering, would waxing my chest help? Daxiet2009-06-11 02:12:50