Jump to content

cairbre

Members
  • Content Count

    413
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About cairbre

  • Rank
    Champion Hubber
  • Birthday 01/24/1984

Public Profile

  • Province
    Gauteng
  • Location
    Johannesburg

Recent Profile Visitors

2476 profile views
  1. I have a tube of this stuff. https://www.evobikes.co.za/components/finish-line-carbon-fibre-grip-1075oz.html It stopped the creak on my seatpost . I'm also in Roodepoort if you want to swing past and grab some, as it'll probably take me 20 years to finish this thing. Otherwise your LBS should have small sachets that will probably let you fit 10 seatposts (you use hardly any paste). I've previously bought RavX sachets from cyclelab.
  2. Not sure if these rims have spoke holes or not, but if they do, replace the tape and try again. I've found that when reseating old/used tubeless tyres, newly fitted tape that hasn't been fully compressed yet can really help to get the bead seated even with just a track pump. So many of my road tubeless headaches came down to using the incorrect rim tape. Gorilla/duct/woven tape cannot handle the pressure of road tubeless and can tear. Plastic tape if not wide enough to run from hook to hook and pressed down by the bead, can lift up inside the rim. It also makes unseating the bead much harder
  3. Still waiting for a parcel that hit customs on the 23rd... of June... 2018....
  4. I switched to contacts for cycling. Prescription lenses for cycling shades are hilariously expensive, and for MTB you run a pretty decent risk of breaking/scratching them. Also, the changing light conditions mentioned above can make them pretty inconvenient.
  5. Looks like I'm going to be importing some new GP5000 TLR next week from Merlin since it seems the local guys decided to not bring in the 32c. I'll be grabbing some Orange Seal at the same time if anyone wants to jump on the order and split shipping costs (UPS; I'm in Fourways, jhb).
  6. As a start, loosen and retorque all your pivot bolts. Suspension related squeaks, clicks, etc., can often be traced back to over torquing these bolts.
  7. I've broken my jaw in multiple places and shattered a bunch of teeth from a 10kph OTB that set me back about R50k in hospital and dentist bills with a 2 year painful recovery period. It doesn't take much speed/force at all, though I'm very tall, riding an XL, so I have a fairly long way down. The reason I still don't often wear a FF is mainly due to heat, and the constant up/down nature of JHB trails. The added weight is also really fatiguing. I'm still surprised that the vast majority still wear absolutely no protection whatsoever on trails that can be pretty rocky and fast, especially th
  8. Yeap. I have photos somewhere of my bike absolutely dripping in sealant... with a flat tyre. I've even peeled dried sealant out of the BB shell at one stage.
  9. CWC brought in something similar: https://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/tyrekey-no-pinch-lever The one off Amazon was cheap to import though. I've got 2 if anyone in JHB wants to try out my spare. I can tell you from experience, it's definitely not a gimmick, and the jack that I bought makes a monumental difference. Pulling stubborn tyres onto carbon rims is effortless and you're not constantly worrying about cracking the bead and destroying your rim from the severe forces used with conventional levers.
  10. I've used the extreme stuff to repair a puncture. It clogged the nozzle multiple times while I was using it, but it worked and was certainly a whole lot easier than pulling the tyre off to glue on a patch. To me it seems to be too viscous (and expensive) to leave in a tyre to function as sealant. The normal stuff is awfully pricey for what's essentially just normal sealant.
  11. Import ... and yes, I'm going to be importing some Orange Seal soonish, as I'm still committed to throwing money at road tubeless till I find a setup that actually works. I've already bought a pair of these, and what a difference it makes for getting tight tubeless tyres onto the rim. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AYML7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It took a 30 minute job that involved a lot of pain, lube, expletives, and fearing the distinctive crack carbon makes, down to around 2 minutes of effortless work.
  12. Orange Seal can be sourced directly from Amazon, or through any number of other stores (jenson) via AGS. Shipping is pricey though because of the weight. So the end price is pretty damn high. Road tubeless is definitely not for someone on a budget, and it's also kinda ridiculous that people are importing sealant of all things.
  13. Hah, nope, forgot about this. I've since switched to Assos bibs, so can just send it to them for a proper repair if needed. Everyone I contacted (including a bunch of the local manufacturers) was decidedly unhelpful.
  14. I've tried the new Finish Line on road tubeless. It fails... messily (like all the others). I've also tried Stans, Stans Race, and Joes Road. Every single one of them fails at anything above 2bar. I've now taken to carrying a bottle of Tufo Xtreme in my pocket and run almost no sealant in my tyres. I run 5bar rear, 4.5bar front on Schwalbe Pro One 28c. These tyres are so tight, there's absolutely no chance of putting in a tube on the side of the road (and the frame, and myself). Another thing that I've never seen mentioned really is the proper rim tape. Gorilla tape and other types of "wov
  15. Onyx hubs: https://onyxrp.com/product-category/mtb-hubs/ Really expensive, but no ratchet design so 100% silent.
My Profile My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Settings Help Logout