No way! I bought my Rudy Project Raydon's last month for R1800...and that was without a free pair of lenses and without a RP helmet.
Cool site and great deal!!
How difficult is it, if the sun shines in your eyes,slow down, lift up your lazy hand to screen out the sun or put down your sun visor.
NO, he'll rather drive the same speed and hope for the best.
It is flippen ridiculous that this excuse is being used for every accident where cyclists are involved in.
I'm busy setting up my road bike for this year's Iron Man. But I've got a problem to mount my tri bars onto my handlebar that tapers down from the stem. It's using about 70mm of the handlebar to taper down from the stem on each side.
My question is, what is the maximum gap between the two tri bars, but to still maintain a good earo position and have an effective pedal stroke?
I know to buy a non taper handlebar is probably the best option, but I consider this to be my last option.
HR, you forgot the "l" at the end of the URL; gives you an error on the above link.
http://www.independent.co.uk/environment/green-living/cyclotherapy-jumping-red-traffic-lights-when-it-is-safe-to-do-so-should-be-encouraged-not-penalised-1777547.html
I've cycled past the accident mentioned above yesterday afternoon. One half of the car at the back of the truck was completely flattened, didn't get a photo of it but I've asked one of the fire brigade guys and he said the person in the car survived and was taken to hospital. He said the truck driver came of worse. They were busy getting the truck out of there...think it kept them busy for a while.
I found this article on the net...pretty interesting on how you can apply more power with different pedal strokes: The main application of force to the pedals is in the downward thrust which comes naturally to almost everyone. The technique of drawing force across the bottom of the revolution arc and upwards to the start of the downward thrust is called ankling. The action involves a lowering of the heel as the downward force of the pedals takes place and a lifting of the heel as the pedal begins the upward movement of its revolution. Think of scraping mud off the bottom of your shoe at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Ankling enables the application of constant pressure upon the pedals throughout the revolution eliminating the dead spots at the upper and lower points. This pedal stroke requires less peak muscle contraction which spreads the load over the muscles (engaging more calf muscles) and promote a smooth efficient style that you?ll be able to produce more power with less difficulty. Different cyclists will vary in the position of their heel whilst pedaling. Depending on your flexibility and basic biomechanics, some of you will use a high heel action and some of you may use a low heel action. Heel height also depends on your cadence (see illustration at bottom of page). You may end up injuring yourself if you attempt to change the basic heel height of your pedal stroke if it doesn?t feel natural. You should try to develop ankling within the constraints of your basic pedaling movement. A proper bike fit along with cleat positioning goes hand in hand with this and is well worth the money to optimize your pedal stroke. The faster your cadence, the more difficult and unnecessary it will be to use the ankling technique. The downwards force on the pedals and the muscle contraction will be so quick in a sprint at 150 RPM that you won?t be able to do this effectively. You?ll notice that track sprinters will often use a high heel action when in a full sprint. Roadies often use a low heel action resulting from their cleat being positioned past the ball of the foot (towards the toe). The low heel technique is important in hill climbing while sitting back on the saddle and you?ll notice an improvement in your climbing abilities once you master this technique. See illustration below for example on heel action at different cadences (pay more attention to the pedal angle than the heal angle in these pictures. The heal appears to be higher than I would suggest. This will depend on the flexibility of the rider). ~60-90RPM ~90-110RPM ~110+ RPM More info at http://www.perfectcondition.ltd.uk/Articles/Pedalling/index.htm
I agree...I got a box full of medals stashed away in the garage gathering dust. I'm not the type that will put them on display in my living room anyway. Would rather save x amount on entry fees and be without a useless medal.
Anyone who has ridden a KTM motorcycle in their life will have respect for this photo.
More info at http://www.dirtbikebook.com/acatalog/info_128SCOREPRESTIGE.html
It's called the KTM Score Prestige, bit of a daft name for such an awesome looking bike.
Looks like at the current exchange rate it will put you back about R80 000.
http://i513.photobucket.com/albums/t331/scheepcharl/ktm_mtb.jpg
Apparently the bike "fitter" at my LBS was sent to the States to the Specialized Academy. He did the bike setup course and at the moment he is only specializing in setting up bikes.
I presume they need to finance the trip to the States in some way.
