carrera4s

Nicely done Patches! Jip, a jack plane and a block plane is a good start. But you need a solid bench, else your bench will just shake around... My "Festool" MFTC was way too rickety when I tried using a hand plane on it. And also too high. Yes, they do not like plywood that much, but you will just have to sharpen a bit sooner than normal.

Its been a while since I have been there, but there was a person at the Boeremark making wooden toys. (But that was even before they moved to their new spot!) Alternatively, there are a few groups on Facebook. Check out these groups: Houtwerkers Houtwerk Garage Houtwerkers Woodworkers Forum I am sure you will get them sold on those groups - quite a few guys there making wooden toys.

Tx Rocket-Boy, Yes, was quite a bit of work, but I enjoyed it. Will send you one! Guys, I also have a few screws for sale, should any of you be interested. To keep the costs down, I will also sell them without the hub, handle and gator (you can probably make them yourself! Even if you do not have a lathe, you can make an octagonal one). I have Red Ivory, Tambotie, Rooibos, Hardekool (leadwood) and Swarthaak to make the hub if you are interested - can also send you a blank if you want. PS: 10% discount for you guys! ???? The screws and nuts are all Rhodesian teak (except the one hardekool one, but that is sold already). Leg vice screw: 600 mm long, 64 mm diameter, 12.5 mm pitch, twin start for 25 mm advance per rotation. R 2 500 for complete set, or R 1250 for screw and nut only. Face Vice Screw: 500 mm long, 50 mm diameter, 10 mm pitch, twin start for 20 mm advance per rotation. R 2 200 for complete set, or R 1 100 for screw and nut only. Wagon Vice Screw: (Sorry, don't have a pic now) 300 - 400 mm long, 50 mm diameter, 10 mm pitch, twin start for 20 mm advance per rotation. R 1 750 for complete set, or R 900 for screw and nut only. Moxon Vice Screws (Set of 2): 300 mm long, 40 mm diameter, 7.5 mm pitch, twin start for 15 mm advance per rotation. R 1 250 for complete set, or R 900 for screws and nuts only.

Hi all, I have eventually made some videos on how I make my wooden screws. Some weekend watching for you. ???? Hope you enjoy.

Oooh wow! Love it!

I found Pro-tech quite decent for home use. But Dimar definitely better: https://powertoolrepairs.co.za/63-dimar Also have a look at Scanda, I bought a "dish carving" bit from them recently - gives me very good results! https://scanda.co.za/product-category/router-bits/profile-router-bits/bowl-tray/ I used the Scanda one to make these recesses in some braaiplanks I made recently. (Rubberwood with Kiaat strip, and Poplar) And a few pics of some cutting boards as well. (Maple and Rosewood - man, I love Rosewood!) PS: I used Tork Craft bits for the juice grooves!!! Now that is crap!!!

Have a look here: the guy that make those was part of the Pretoria Woodworkers' Association. Unfortunately he passed away recently, but his family is continuing the business. https://www.peppermills.co.za/mechanism R 690 for the drill. They are the official importer of the Crush Grind mechanism.

Tx guys, Jip, the first dent was a bit of a heart stopper (I dropped the frog of a 5 1/2 plane about 300 mm high), but after that I am now less concerned. I counted about 10 dings / marks so far. Luckily, with such a thick top, once it really looks too bad, it will just take a few swipes with the hand planes and it will look as good as new again. But that first dent will survive a few of those clean-ups: it is a few mm deep. But it sure is a joy to work at it. ????

I eventually completed the end cap and wagon vice on my workbench! First time I tried dovetails of this size. Unfortunately my short video does not want to upload, but the wagon vice does work...

Patches, I would really rather go for one with speed control - you will definitely regret it later on when you want to use a larger bit. Maybe look for a second hand Makita - mine was really looking beaten up when I got it (< R 2000) and it works a charm. It is now permanently mounted in my router table. I have a slightly older version of this one: The nice thing about this one is that you can make a simple long bolt to go through this lug to make depth adjustments from above the table: On teh Domino: Check out Pask Makes - he made his own domino. You can use that nice trim router for this. There are a few others on YouTube as well.

Here is another No 7 I cleaned up recently. This one was in a very good condition when I got it, just a bit of surface rust. It was just lying unused in a toolbox. The japanning was almost perfect, just a small spot close to the tote that had a bit of rust. It was sold in 1 hour after I posted it on out woodworkers group. This was the first one where I used the Osmo.

When I restore a second hand plane for my own use I make a new set of tote and knob from African Rosewood just to personalise it a bit. I used to simply use BLO to finish it, but recently finished one set with two coats of OSMO Poly X Satin sanded with 1200 grit in between. Then a coat of paste wax on top. Wow, I love it! Silky smooth!!! I am now going to refinish all of them with the Osmo. (PS: I have applied the Osmo directly over the BLO and it seems to have adhered quite well. Since both are oil based, I think there should not be an issue...) The set on the left just have the BLO finish, with the set on the right having the Osmo. I like the satin gloss. ????

I recently had to make a "braaiplank" for our estate's management as a farewell gift for one of their members. First time I made a cutting board - was a bit more work than what I thought! The laser engraving was done by a local sign-making company in Centurion. Poplar, 800 x 300 x 28 mm treated with a beeswax / mineral oil Board Butter.

I finished my moxon vice last night. The jaws are hard maple with hardekool (leadwood) screws and nuts. The jaws are lined with dark brown suede leather. It can clamp up to 440 mm wide x 85 mm thick. The screws are 7.5 mm twin start pitch = 15 mm advance per revolution. c 300 mm long with 100 mm long handle and c 200 mm threaded section. I am planning to make a few extra sets of the screws and nuts this weekend, let me know if you might be interested. Probably c R 1 000 to R 1 250 per set - but the next ones will be from Rhodesian Teak, my hardekool is almost finished.... (Also excl the jaws - that you can make yourself, not too difficult ).

The Leroy Merlin version seems a bit simpler and cheaper. Maybe not quite as space efficient as the Larson one, but certainly easier to replicate. Seems like rails that the basket / tray run on - it will need wheels above and below the rail to prevent tipping. https://leroymerlin.co.za/2bskt-crn-sld-r-agl-btm-58x106x76-8-81411482

Just make sure you use BLUM hinges - our house is c 16 - 17 years old and they still open like brand new. We have stayed here for 8 years already - I NEVER had to adjust any of the doors with the BLUM hinges in the kitchen nor bathrooms. The bedroom cupboards have cheapie hinges. Oh my, they don't close properly any more, they hang skew, they squeak...

I have not been online for a while, but I had a few good hours in the garage! My bench has not progressed much, apart from making the screw for the wagon vice. However, one of my friends is also building a bench, so I made him a screw for his leg vice as well: c 600 mm long, 65 mm diameter with 12.5 mm pitch, twin start threads. Rhodesian teak for the screw and nut, walnut for the hub and knobs, and beech for the handle. (His bench will be Rhodesian teak for the base, beech top and walnut leg vise chop and accents). Sorry, don't know why it is on its side...

Hi Bertusras, You can also consider the OSMO hardwax oil. It is similar to Rubio, but you can select the level of sheen you want. Now available at Woodworksupply or Toolcraft. https://www.woodworksupply.co.za/collections/osmo https://www.toolcraft.co.za/collections/osmo-wood-finishes

Sjo, that looks like a proper scroll saw: https://www.hegner.co.uk/hegner-multicut-2s-scrollsaw-230v-100w.html £ 766.80 = R 15 000 (but out of stock) or: https://www.thewoodworks.com.au/shop/machinery-power-tools/scroll-saws/saw-scroll-multicut-2s-hegner-single-speed-110200000-detail?flypage=flypage.tpl&keyword=m024 A$ 1,878.45 = R 20 000 I see Jet also have such an expensive scroll saw: https://www.toolcraft.co.za/collections/jet/products/jet-jwss-22b-scroll-saw-base-stand R 18 000. Normally a fair second hand price would be 60% - 80% for as-new condition.. So it depends on whether you need such an expensive scroll saw... You can get much cheaper ones on Gumtree etc. (I paid R 1800 for a JET one (not the one on the Toolcraft website, though)). Chat to the seller and see what he paid, negotiate from there.

Hi Stefmeister, I will only install a wagon vise, not a fully fledged end vise. I will use a wooden screw as well for that. I also plan a moxon vice for dovetailing etc. and also holdfasts for the surface. So I do not think I need a full end vice.

I also immediately thought about 45 degree dowels, but also realised it can possibly be a pain to drill them accurately. If you don't manage to drill that accurately, maybe oversize some of the holes and use some epoxy to fill the gaps.

A few more progress photos: Bench flattened and levelled. This is the heap of shavings just from flattening the top: Bench flipped over to cut the ends square from the bottom as well (my track saw only cuts c 52 mm deep with the track - top is 120 mm thick): End grain after cutting: End grain after cleaning up with the No 7 and No 6: Hard work for such few shavings....: Some of the wedged tenon details: And one coat of Danish oil... The breadboard end on the right still needs some work for the end cap. I had a piece of leftover hardekool that I am making a coffee table from. Here I am squaring and bevelling the cut edges. Just three edges and all three planes are blunt again (5, 6 and 7)!

Soon! Just give me a day or three! Just finishing off two small trimmings and apply some preliminary finish. Maybe just a teaser or two... Bench top glue-up (one of the many top glue-ups!): Wedged Tenons glued in place: Levelling the top:

Nicely Done Bertusras, How did you edge the boards after cutting? Maybe add another hinge (or 2) on that tall door? I think 3 might be struggling a bit in the long run.

Hi Bertusras, I am not sure that you will easily find anything decent at R 5 k, but around c R 8k - R 10 k you should be able to find something like a Martlett contractor type saw. Something like this: https://www.gumtree.co.za/a-power-tools/edenvale/250mm-professional-tilting-arbor-table-saw/1002226596690911166524309