carrera4s

My wife finished her project before mine, but at least I helped by casting the epoxy to seal the tiles. Due to the cool weather, we "baked" it a bit in the oven to help the epoxy cure, but unfortunately the white grout then turned grey. Luckily no-one will know. (Apart from everybody on the Pretoria Woodworkers Association Whats-App group and now you guys. )

I can send you a nice piece of Rosewood, Hardekool, or Hard Maple if you want?

Dogs in the bedroom - now THAT will cause a divorce in the "Porsche" household!

Well done Grebel! For wood, I normally sand with the lathe on only until about 150 grit (but I normally finish with a scraper that gives a good finish, so I normally start at 150 grit as well) . Thereafter I sand with the grain to about 240, then clean it with acetone and then do the CA finish - but as Bocket Boy said - only for the brave - get some blank tubes and practise on some cheap wood first ! If you don't do the CA, just continue sanding with the grain with the lathe off. Clean the blank with a cloth between grits and inspect it under a strong light. Then finish as you wish. I never did a raw wood finish, but any HARD hardwood should hold up quite well. Good luck on that acrylic - I only managed to get my blanks scratch free once I started using the sponge backed micromesh and doing wet sanding at around 600 rpm (I do this for both "wood + CA" and acrylics). I got some Autosol metal polish compound (at MIDAS), but actually don't use it.

Well done Grebel! It looks really good! The Streamline is one of my my favourite pens - best seller and not too difficult! And African Blackwood one of my favourite woods. Just a tip, especially for the thinner wall pens - Just make sure you clean the tubes properly on the inside before assembly - I had one or 2 crack due to glue in the tube.

My car is standing outside permanently for the past few months due to the woodwork! Mr ABrooks, have a look at this idea for small space tools storage: https://woodworkjunkie.com/small-workshop-storage-solution His video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhZMOnsVRds Also check out his other videos, many solutions for a small shop.

Wow, love that collection! And you certainly packed them in - well done! Years ago I had a secondhand Lejeune with a very similar paint job (black with white honey-comb) which I called my Black Diamond. That was a dream back then - as soon as I I was moving, I could release the handlebars and speed up without touching the handlebars. Dream handling. Never managed to do the same on another bike again... (my balance is not the best!) Unfortunately it was stolen after I had it only c 2 years.

Jip, I see there are a good number of planes on BoB today...

I also recently finished a Nr 6, this one was badly rusted (almost NO japanning left) and the tote and knob was some filthy softwood, so I made some a new knob and tote from African Rosewood. I used the Lee Valley template for the tote.

Hi CJ Van, RocketBoy is the expert, but I have also restored a few planes. This specific one is one of the later ones, you can see that from the "ribs" on the body of the plane and that C12 007 number. This one also have a plastic tote (rear handle) and plastic knob. The older ones (which are normally worth more), does not have the "ribs", nor that funny C12 007 number and definitely have proper hardwood handles (I think mostly Beech for the England ones). Look at this No 8 that sold on BoB yesterday: https://www.bidorbuy.co.za/item/458954856/Stanley_No_8_jointer_plane.html This is a MUCH older one - the key way to know that is the "keyhole" on the lever cap. That was the original designs but with impact on the blade, it sometimes came loose. So later designs include a "kidney" shape. And it have the nice hardwood handles (and no "ribs"). Also look at this No 7 on BoB: https://www.bidorbuy.co.za/item/457607267/Beautiful_Antique_Bailey_Stanley_No_7_Jointer_Plane_1892_1899_US_Pat_Apr_19_10.html# Also the older version. However, the one you mention is in pretty good nick - not too much rust, apart from the blade and cap iron, but that should not be too difficult to clean up. The Japanning (the black "paint" on the body) also seems to be in a good condition. And you can always make a nice hardwood knob and tote if you want to. So it will work well once cleaned and sharpened correctly (even with the plastic handles ). PS: I have previously restored one almost exactly like this (also the ribs and plastic handle) but I added a Hardwood tote and knob and then sold it for R 1200 on Gumtree. My Nr 7 that I sold - before restoring: After restoring:

Hi Grebel, Jip, Mr Woodturner has damaged my credit card on numerous occasions! You can also look at: https://proturningz.co.za/ They are new on the scene so I have not used them yet. But they are a bit cheaper than Mr Woodturner on some items I checked.

Try Dimar bits: https://dimar.co.za/275-straight-cutters

Jip, Oil Reservoir Engineer...

I often see the later models, but I have not seen the Yankee one in SA yet. A few reviews says the Yankee ones' ratchet mechanism is just WAY better than the other ones. PS: I do have a 10" and 12" of Stanley 78s.

Tx Rocket-Boy! No skew on this one! Firstly glued the tubes in as per normal. Roughing gouge on the ends then small spindle gouge to get the ends to the correct shape & diameter. Then I built a jig to clamp the barrels on the workbench and used a Nr 4 hand plane to shape the hex sides. I used an electronic angle finder to turn the blank 60 degrees each time to get the correct angles. Sounds easier than it was! . Next time I will build a router sled to use on the lathe so I can use the lathe's indexing for the angles...

I recently had a very specific order for a pen from a colleague in London - he collects pens. Rather than a round body pen, he wanted it hexagonal. And he wanted the Cap and Body from two separate African Hardwoods. The Cap is African Blackwood and the Body is African Rosewood. The model is called Magnetic Vertex Supreme. Gunmetal. Rollerball. The Cap "post" onto the body with a magnet - quite cool.

You can try these Facebook pages: Houtwerkers Koop en Verkoop Blad Garage Houtwerkers Groep Houtwerkers Houtwerk Woodworkers Forum South Africa PS: If there is a Stanley or North Bros Yankee Brace that you want to sell, I will definitely be interested. It has this little PIN for the ratchet mechanism:

Very Nice Mr Brooks! I agree, just some BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil). Or if you want a durable finish (but not necessary for a ring box?), consider a spray-on Polyeurethane (gloss or matt). I get very nice results with that. But you do lose some of the wood's warmth / texture.

Hi Josh _the_Man, Of Course, anytime. Happy to help... Phone number: 012 644 8600 Address: 246 Basden Ave, Lyttelton, Centurion I will even arrange a nice cozy room for you. And we'll throw the key away once you are in! And just to be sure you don't miss it, even a map:

Not quite woodworking... While away on holiday I could not do any woodwork, so I did a pencil sketch again - have not done one in a loooong while. My daughter's matric dance photo.

At last I have something in my cycling range pens to show again. (Well, this is the first one actually! ). The wood is wild olive that I finished with spray on Polyeurethane. But I must say, it is too shiny to my liking - think I will simply use BLO again next time. The pen is a Magnetic Vertex Rollerbal in Gun Metal with a carbon fibre barrel. The cap post magnetically onto the pen and back end. The chain is a SRAM 1031 that I found in my garage - cannot remember where I got it. I must say, the stand took MUUUCH longer to make than the pen itself. Sorry for the crappy photos, was late at night with a cellphone in a dimly lit room. I will be making a few more in support of a friend's son that will be going to Egypt this month for African Continental Track Champs representing SA. The pen is R 600 and the stand is R 1 000. Send me a PM if you want one (PS: I can customise both the pen and stand, so send me a PM and we can chat - I can also arrange engraving if required, maybe your favourite bike brand on the barrel?).

Any pics yet CJ?

Hi CJ, See this picture I saw today. You can read the article here: https://knowledge.axminster.co.uk/turning-a-london-pattern-octagonal-handle/

This certainly sounds like an accident waiting to happen. And if not, you will probably not get a good, clean hole. Do you have a face plate that you can mount the stock to? But the best option is the 4 jaw chuck. Will this fit your lathe: http://www.mrwoodturner.co.za/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=42_161&products_id=2304 I see it comes with a 3/4" 16 tpi adapter. Or this one, even cheaper (also with the adapter) but just a 3 jaw chuck: http://www.mrwoodturner.co.za/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=42_161&products_id=2150

Do you guys know the JESSEM Clear Cut stock guides? I recently made a DIY version. Unfortunately my wheels only have standard bearings, so they do not prevent kick-back, but they do the other two fuctions: Keep the stock down and tight to the fence. Quick and easy to make from some off-cuts. I just need to fire that narrator or send him for some serious voice-over training! Here is an overview of the commercial version.