Sterad

Only advantage of heavier wheels will be on downhills. Even on flats, light weight rules!! Period

Go with that. 170mm

Conti supersonics, lightest tyre you can get, around 160grams I think. Otherwise gp4000's

Thanks for the input, think I'll stick with the standard ones.

Better plan! I'll just drill some holes in my shoes, that will make them a few grams lighter!! Bonus of keeping my feet cooler too!!

Thats why I was thinking more towards titanium, but maybe not worth the few grams.

For road.

Anyone use aluminium or titanium cleat bolts, or is this not recommended?

Yes I recken it will work. Can also try turning your original seat post 180degrees so that the clamp faces forward instead of backwards. But sometimes there's not enough angle then for the seat to clamp in at a low enough angle, will have to check. This basically changes your seat tube angle from the normal 73/74 degrees to more like 78 degrees.

I have the same problem with one of my older frames, extractor thread is stripped, also standard square bb. I don't think a piece of wood and hammer will work? Any other ideas????

Agree, must be around 5kg or less, if there is a weight limit???

Ja swaar....... The way I read it.... the chain is jumping off the big chain ring. Can only be 1 of three things Chain ring is worn Chain is worn Front derailer adjustment

Agree, it shouldn't be jumping, just saying, you shouldn't be riding in your big chainring and biggest gears at the back. Another possibility is your big chainring could be warn, not common though as it takes a long time and lots of wear for this to happen.

Ok thanks for the help buds, thought you only had to start lubing after a couple of km's. Would this apply to the more expensive chains as well, just bought a kmc x9sl chain(hollow pins) Is the factory grease no good? What is the white lightening lube like, any good?

When you fit a new chain, when do you need to start lubricating it, or do you lube it from the beginning? The chain is already pre greased out the box. And what is the best lubs for maximum chain life? Waxes or just plain Q20?

Are you talking about the 3 biggest sprockets at the back? If so you should rather change down to your smaller chain ring in the front.

You need to check your rear derailer cable adjustment, your gears may not be shifting precisely, the LBS should have checked this though?? They are correct regards using the big chain ring with the smaller gears(for higher speeds, fast straights and decends) and the small chain ring with the bigger gears(for uphills and slower straights), keeps your chain at a straighter angle. I would take the bike back as soon as possible if you are not sure what to do.

Its all about the bike, Get a better bike! Lighter, stiffer.

Depends on how steep the hill, and how fit you are?? Definitely will be a difference in the 25 to the 27 rear, you will feel it up really steep hills, the 27 will be easy and you will be able to spin up the hill maybe quicker. The only thing is with the 12/27 there will be bigger gaps between some of the gears.

Revolution spokes are only 1,5mm, very thin, also very expensive, like R15 a spoke, so for 32 almost R500! Rather try a normal double butted spoke, at 1,8mm should be good enough.

Should be able to run a 28 no problem, I do with my standard derailler. Should even be able to run up to a 30, but then perhaps put in an extra chain link, as long as your chain is not too long and catches on the bottom of your derailler when in the smallest gear at the back and in front.

I have a fork with a similar problem, also a hairline crack where the carbon joins with the aluminum. Had been ridding it for a while before I noticed it. I had an accident with it a while ago, hit a car at about 40km/h and couldn't believe it didn't snap, but checked the crack about 6 months later. The frame was damaged/kinked and front wheel totalled. So have taken it off my bike now as I don't trust it any more. If you tap the fork it sounds solid still, but underneath the aluminum could be fractured. So think the best is to sand it down pretty well like someone suggested and check it out. Then respray. In my opinion that fork has taken an impact, so its reliability is always at doubt now??? It appears as though there is a crack on both fork legs??

Yes but its a different thing. With longer crank arms you are able to push a harder gear, but your cadence will be slightly lower, because your foot now has to move through a longer circumference distance, but less force is required. So it has the effect of being easier to peddle, if you are a tall rider. Thats why it depends on the individual. Basically you have to find a crank arm length that best suites your individual ideal cadence speed. Crank arm length will dictate your cadence. Taller riders will find longer crank arms better, ie. if you are 1,9M you should be using 190mm crank arms because you will naturally have a lower cadence(in general)

There should be more varience available in crank arm length, ie. if you are 1.6m tall a crank arm of 160mm +/- and if you are 1.9m tall a crank of 190mm +- but gears have basically eliminated this need.

It basically boils down to personal preference, and personal make up, wether you prefer a higher cadence or lower. You will have more churning power to push harder gears with a longer crank, but your cadence will be slower. Obviously if you are 1.6M tall go for the 170mm, if 1.8M go for the 175, to suite your height. I once tried 190mm cranks, had major power up hills, could basically drop down 1 or 2 gears from the 175mm cranks, but on fast down hills you spin out quicker, ie if you previously spun out at around 70km/h, you would now spin out at around 64km/h with 190mm cranks. But for hills and climbs it definitely helps.