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Found 3 results

  1. Stan’s NoTubes is excited to announce new lighter, wider versions of their popular Crest, Arch, and Flow rims and wheelsets. The new Mark 3 series rims feature a more durable 6069 aluminium alloy and a wider, lower profile design that maximizes tire volume without distorting a tire’s shape. The Crest MK3, Arch MK3 and Flow MK3 wheelsets will include Stan’s faster­ engaging and more durable CNC machined Neo hubs. The MK3 series will rely on Stan’s patented Bead Socket Technology (BST), the tubeless rim shape trusted by riders and racers around the world. Click here to view the article
  2. So... I am a complete beginner. I did some research and settled on a 29er. I also went into a few bike shops and was told I'm in-between a medium and a large, at 98kg 1.78m. I decided to go with the large. This past weekend I went and bought Silverback Sola 1 - it was good deal, from someone who had only ridden it a few times. Now - I'm starting to read about a 86kg weight limit on the crest rims. CWC down the road told me not to worry, that the rims are strong enough. Looking into it further, I see that the spoke strength has quite a bit to do with the integrity of the rims. Turns out that my Sola 1 has the thinner, lighter spokes. So - should I be worried and put Arch Ex rims on, or perhaps refit with stronger spokes then keep the crest rims, or just ride as is. I am a beginner, so will be taking it easy for now. Hopefully by the time I start taking on tougher trails I will be a bit lighter too :-) this is the bike, if that helps http://www.bicycling.co.za/bike-buyers-guide/sola-1/
  3. After reading the thread about battling to fit tyres to a crest rim, thought I would make a little how to make a wheel tubeless as well as fit a tyre to a rim that just doesn't want to go on. PLEASE NOTE: I am no specialized bike mechanic, I just like to do most things myself when it comes to bicycle related stuff. What you'll need: 1. Wheel and tyre to be made tubeless. 2. Tubeless sealant 3. Tyre levers (preferably something like the crowbars, as your less likely to break them when fitting a tight bead to a rim) 4. Tubeless Valve 5. Duct Tape (don't buy the cheap stuff, R20 is not worth the 20km walk home) 6. Pen 7. Dish washing liquid 8. Carpet knife or craft knife 9. 0.5 - 1m piece of rope 10. Acetone or ether 11. A few Cloths 12. A few beers and good music (NB!) If your just here to see the tip on how to fit a tight bead, you can skip to step 11 Step 1: Remove the old tyre or tyre to be converted from the rim, also remove any rim tape or strip that may be on the rim. At this point you can use a bit of acetone on a cloth to remove any sticky residue that may be on the rim. I advise rinsing the rim with a hose pipe once done to remove any residues that may be left behind, leave the rim to air dry while to follow the next few steps. I cant express enough how important it s to get the rim as clean as possible, I've attached a picture below of a rim that started loosing air, because the duct tape was stuck onto a rim that wasn't properly cleaned. Step 2:Measure the width of your rim from outside to outside and mark a test piece of duct tape, alternatively you can mark directly onto the duct tape as pictured. Step 3:test a small piece of the duct tape to make sure you have the width correct, The tape should go from the inner edge of one rim wall to the other. Make sure that the duct tape is stuck nicely to the middle groove of the rim Step 4: Mark the duct tape all the way round, resting your pen on a book or any other object to keep the pen from moving while you rotate the roll of tape. A folded piece of paper works well to make fine adjustments to height Step 5:Using your carpet or craft knife, cut a few layers deep into your duct tape., making sure not to make any tabs while you go along. It is generally easier to cut over the same line twice then try make one deep cut into the roll of tape Step 6:Start sticking your newly cut tape to the rim. start 30cm from the valve hole working toward it. A single layer ending 30cm otherside of the valve hole should be enough. Multiple layers will make is more difficult if not impossible to fit a tight bead. Make sure as you are sticking the tape from the middle groove moving your finger to either side of the rim wall from there. This will prevent the tape lifting later on. Step 7:Insert your tubeless valve by pushing it through the duct tape covering the valve hole. Make sure that the valve is close to prevent bending any of the bits. Step 8:Apply some dish washing liquid to the Duct Tape you have placed on the rim, start and end at the valve so as not to miss any pieces. Spread the soap from rim wall to rim wall using your finger Step 9: Put the first side of the tyre onto your rim. (you should be able to do this with just your hands) MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE ROTATION CORRECT, you don't want to mess this up, especially if you have a tight fitting tyre and only realize at the end. Step 10: (optional) At this point you can put the sealant in the tyre prior to fitting the second bead, or you can put the sealant in at the end if you have valves with removable cores Step 11: This is my trick for fitting a very tight fitting tyre to a rim. Fit the second bead onto the rim up until the point where your can't any more with just your hands. Using a piece of rope, wrap it around both tyre and rim at the point where the bead is still inside the rim (see pictures below) This will prevent the tyre from coming of the rim, and you working your way around the rim in an endless circle trying to fit the tyre. Both hands are now free to work the bead on from the other side, using one hand to keep the bead in the rim and the other to use the leaver, slowly fit the bead onto the rim. (make sure not do damage the duct tape with your lever) (right handed people work from left to right if the rim is in front of you, opposite for left handed people) Step 12: Using a floor pump or compressor inflate your tire, this is easier to do with tyres that fit tightly against the rim. Step 13: (optional) Submerge the tyre and rim under some water in the bath, if you see lots of air leaking from the valve, either you need to tighten the little washer (finger tight ONLY) or your rim tape has failed. If the tape has failed, have another beer or two and start again. Important notes: *DON'T over inflate a tyre fitting for the first time as you risk the tyre popping of the rime. The following few things will happen should you do it. 1. you will be left with a face full of tyre sealant (that stuff burns and glues eyes shut) 2. you will be left partially deaf with ears ringing for the next half hour. 3. if indoors everything will now be covered in sealant (stuff does not come out of furniture or curtains) 4. The tyre will most likely pop off the rim in future due to a now damaged/ stretched bead 5. Yes I have experienced all of the above, it is a road you would prefer not to go down *Rather deflate the tyre, push the beading the the centre of the rim and apply some dish washing liquid to aid seating of the tyre. *With tight fitting tyres it is sometimes easier to end at the valve when fitting the tyre as it allows the tyre already in the rim to sit nicely in the groove I know this is a long read, but hopefully it is able to help at least someone out there, even if just to make someone laugh, after reading over my important notes. Edit spelling:
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