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I bought the Ryder AirTank 2.0 from Cylce lab for R1200 and it’s fantastic. It can seat MTB tires (if you correctly position) has a realy good valve to press on to the presto and the gauge is great best of all it fast - fewer pumps. My last pump I bought 11 years ago served me well and still works but this is in a different league!

Having recently acquired a new roadie which sports some tubeless wheels (american classic), and being used to 23c tubed gatorskins for most of my cycling career, I've got no idea where to start looking for new tires. currently running schwalbe pro 1, but being second hand they are starting to look a bit worse for wear. by the look of things frame should be able to take a set of 25c's. what are you running and what would you recommend (that is as bulletproof as gatorskins)

Hi Anyone here tried making homemade tyre sealant ? where did you get your latex liquid and how much more or less for 1lt ? did you use slime (green stuff) , glitter or both ? what antifreeze did you use ? the concentrate or the already mixed versions ? anything that i might need to add or that i am forgetting ?

This looks convenient:

Was looking for new rubber for the missus over the festive season. Per chance I saw that Takelot had some tyres on offer from Michelin. Keen to try these out, as I believe Michelin is new on the tyre market in SA. At R650 a pop, they seemed priced right. (View the ad here: https://www.takealot.com/michelin-wildgrip-r2-ts-tubeless-tyre-27-5cm-x-2-25cm/PLID49606219 ) They took a couple of days to get here, but received them early Jan. I was quite impressed with fairly aggressive looking rubber. The tyres has directional indicators for front and rear indicated on the sidewall. They went on to the DT swiss Spline 1900's effortlessly, and seated with a satisfying (and equally terrifying) pop-pop. I use a compressor to fit tyres, as the track-pump see-if-your-triceps-can-make-it, doesnt work for me. (You may wonder if the compressor is in my lounge, my wife loves cycling, and does not mind me with parts and stuff in the house, but I think the compressor in the lounge may be a push too far.) The front went on equally easy, inflated and seated effortlessly. I did check direction about 3 times before final installation. The finished product: We will be taking the new rubber for a shakedown ride at Avianto this afternoon, and I will report back.

Any idea as to who stocks the Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless road tyres in Jo'burg?

Anyone tried the Tannus Slick solid tyres on a road bike. Good/bad idea, or should I just go tubeless?

Hi Guys. So we have a few demo Tires we want to cut with glass and stick it full of thorns. But how fun will it be if you can't be part it. So here it is... you have the opportunity tell us what you want us to put through the tyre. And we will watch it seal. all the nasty stuff that made you walk home or had to call your Liefie to come pick you up. We will make a video of this and post it on the Bike Hub On Friday Morning. We will be using the TUFO C S3 Tubular Clincher 24mm for this experiment with some Velowurks Sealant and TUFO Extreme Sealant

So what does everyone carry to repair tubeless tyres out on the trails? There are many new products on the market for tubess repairs, yet I find that some people will never let go of the spare tube as a backup. What works? What not? PS: I tried to search, but only very old posts came up.

After having done 10,000km on Chaoyang and before that Maxxis I decided to try out a new cheapie brand from China and settled on the Innova-Pro Transformers. Now normally when you want something fancy you get it from a Boutique. Think of fine clothing, confectionery, furniture and so on. If it is fancy stuff it will most likely be "boutique" stuff. So based on that these must be really fancy because it is the first "boutique tyre" I have ever had in my life Sew fahunseh ! Fitting them on my Giant P-XC2 rims was easy enough, I added 100ml Rhino sealant in each wheel and pumped it 2.5 bar and it seems to hold that without any leaks. They do seem rather skinny compared to my old 29x2.2 Chaoyangs. Tomorrow I will test them out on Piket-bo-berg, a route I am not familiar with on tyres I am not familiar with. Let's see how it goes.

It's pretty pathetic that I don't know how to do this by now but I'd really appreciate some pointers. I have an XC bike that had a tubeless conversion done to the stock standard Jalco XCD22 rims. I was going down a steep decent the other day and when i came up the other side the rear wheel burped (?) and completely lost all air. I tried pumping it back up vigorously with my floor pump to no avail. So my question is simple: how do you reseal the tyre's bead in this situation where it's completely flat? I'll need to get some more sealant as it blasted out a lot. I'm just wondering how i go about resealing it so the new sealant (and air) doesn't just come out.

Hello Everyone. We in JHB. So me and my squeeze got new MTB's (29" and 27.5"). The salesman said 1st thing I should do is convert to tubeless, but I thought to myself agh I will just repair the punctures as I go. 1ST ride and 3 punctures later and I realised he is very wise. So Im getting myself and my squeeze the following: a pair of tubeless tires for the bikes(2 - 29x2.2 and 2 - 27.5x2.2)2x conversion kit (sealant, tape, valves)CO2 inflater head4x 25g co2 cartridgesgauge pump (small handheld)If I'm missing anything or need to change something please let me know? Labour is a bit expensive, so thought I would do it myself. Any1 have good guides that they tried themselves? Are there tools I need to do this? Note: I am very new so I won't know any abbreviations. Also, I did check the rims, they do support tubeless. I appreciate any wisdom of the Bikehub community, Thanks in advance

I have a bike with tubeless rims and tyres that is in need of new tyres. I also have a spare set of Maxxis Ignitor wire bead tyres that I'd like to use. I've read mixed reviews of using wire bead tyres for tubeless, and bike shops just want to sell me new tyres instead of fitting my existing ones. Who has experience with this, is it a reasonable idea or will it end in tears? Because from what I can see the bead looks identical between the different types of tyres so it should just seal up and work without drama.

Hi, I am going to do a tubeless conversion and i bought some of these rim strips http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/za/en/wtb-rim-strip/rp-prod49007 My question is do i put the rim tape then the rim strips? Or do i do the rim strip then the rim tape. I am inclined to put the tape then the strip but i have heard other wise too

Hey Guys, My bike is about 5 months old now, and did the conversion to tubeless the same day i purchased it. I have the Chaoyand Hornet tyres fitted with this tubeless conversion. I got my 1st thorn that i took out, with the hope that the sealant will seal it as it should. To my surprise that was not the case, the sealant just seeped out, so i spun the tyre, rode with bike, and it just didn't want to seal. Now I'm not sure, must the sealant be replaced or was it just not the proper sealant put in, to begin with? In the 5 month of owning the bike, its done about 1500km's of all weather, all terrain, mainly road though. Your advice would appreciated.

My first post on this forum was about my new cyclo cross bike and i have to admit that i still cannot get enough of it. Everything is better than i hoped for except for the disc brakes and wheels. I will discuss the wheels here. My requirements for a CX bike’s wheels are the following: · I ride mostly road and the traffic forces me to do a bit of off-roading every now and then. Large knobs for riding in mud like the Europeans are therefore not necessary · The UCI regulations limit tyre width to 33mm for CX. Pointless for the majority of owners of these bikes as it may work on grassy and muddy courses in Holland but you cannot ride over rocks at speed and I think a minimum of 35mm is required. · It must be tubeless. Non-negotiable. You cannot ride through the thorns we have everywhere in the Cape with inner tubes and you will also constantly be fixing pinch flats. RIMS I chose Stan’s Grail X which hooks up perfectly with tubeless tyres but they are simply too soft. I put 8 dents in them in the first 8 weeks. Alternatives would be a ‘ghetto tubeless conversion’ [you just build up the rim bed with a few layers of rim tape] but I have no experience with this. Another option would be to simply use 29er MTB rims [they are also ‘700c’ or 622 sized] but are quite a bit wider and I’m not sure how the tyres will sit on them. TYRES The bike came with Vittoria Xg pro 700x31c tyres and they are made for mud [very knobbly] and WAY too narrow [hence the 8 dents in my rear rim by the time my replacement tyres arrived] Next up I had a Challenge Gravel Grinder 700x38c on the back. Very nice tyre but although it is 38mm wide, it is not very high and you end up with too little volume to run it softer on poor terrain. Furthermore it’s not tubeless specific and climbs off the rim at higher pressures [more of this below]. The file thread did not last very long. I thought the answers to my prayers would be Continental Cyclocross Speed 700x35c. Perfect thread that should last much longer than the others and for the road, conti makes the only tyres I ever trusted to trained with. Also very light at 350gm. The first time I mounted them was fine but I took them off to try something else and a month later when I remounted them, my troubles started: · When I inflated them to anything over 45 PSI they would come of the rim. This happens suddenly. With no warning. And very loudly. I don’t like it. · They oozed Stan’s fluid through the sidewalls ???! this continued for 2 weeks and I have now put an inner tube in them. see picture So although they are brilliant tyres, I now have two of them that I will try to run with tubes through the winter when we have less thorns but will not buy them again The tyre I was least excited about was WTB cross Boss 700x35c. [heavy, large knobs so noisy and does not roll well on the road] . Man, was I wrong about them. Hooking them up tubeless is a non-issue. No punctures. Although they are 35 wide, they are about 38mm high and this volume makes it easy to run them at pressures down to 27PSI off road. If the thread design was closer to the Contis’, I would stop my search for sure TUBELESS Setting a T/L specific tyre and rim combo up is extremely easy. The problem is the paucity of options when it comes to my T/L tyre requirements and invariably you will use non-T/L tyre. They usually work well except that you have a very limited range of pressures you can run them at. Tyre pressure is much more of an issue on a CX bike than any other type. So if you ride off road, you want them around 30 PSI and on the road as high as you can. The indicated pressures on the side walls are completely irrelevant. The most revealing bit of info has been the very fine print on the Stan’s rim: depending on the tyre width, the max pressure for a 23mm tyre is 116, for a 28mm it is 100 and for 32mm it is only 45 PSI ! If you inflate a [especially a non T/L ] tyre to 46 PSI, it will come off. Suddenly. Loudly. You put a tube in it and you can go much higher – this is something I find mildly puzzling but it’s a fact. So as with most things, engineering is the art of balancing compromises and no set up will by flawless. I will settle for the WTB Cross Boss and may even try their 40mm Nano [weighs a tonne though] on the rear. When it’s time to replace my rims, I would hopefully have more options as tubeless disk rims should expand a lot in the next few years.

Do you?....man i must say i'm a fan of tubeless,I resisted the transformation in the beginning but must confess they have certainly proven their worth .(we'll underplay the couple of occasions where the hole couldn't seal and called for a tube insert mmm rather messy and can see why some riders carry wet wipes). So my question is after a days riding and you check the tyres and find a collection of devil thorns / duweltjie or dubbeltjies whatever you call those those little pointy buggers i usually find with my bare feet. So the whole ones I remove but embedded in the tyre are the points of plenty more If i cant grab the protruding end with my finger nails i just normally leave them in,I suppose because they are pointy shaped they should dislodge after a couple of rides....explaining why sometimes i have slight unexplained tyre pressure loss.

Just got a set of AMC tubeless road wheel and now on the hunt for decent tubeless tyres. I"ve got a 2014 Cannonade Supersix Evo and after doing a bit of research it seems that they won't take 28c tyres but will take some 25c and all 23c ones. Been looking at the Schwalbe One and the Schwalbe One Pro's as they score well on the rolling resistance tests and I've been a firm fan of GP4000s for the last 5 years+ but they don't have a tubeless version. Vittoria have a good one coming out next year but even the agents don't know when. Wondering who has used what brands and if any one knows of any 25c tyres anywhere in the country! I've called most shops in the WC and can't find any. Most shops carry a few 23c ones (Ones, Hutchinson and 1 Spez Roubaix but none of the brilliant turbos) and to be honest for the price you have to pay for a tubeless tyre I'd rather get the one I want not one because everywhere is out of stock.

To all the Ghetto Tubeless guys. I'm trying to do a tubeless conversion to a 26" rim - Mavic 117. Tyre seats and everything seals except at the weld. I'm stuck in the middle of nowhere, so limited resources. I have duct tape, insulation tape, rim tape, sealant. I've tried running additional tape (both duct tape and rim tape) perpendicular to the rim, but unfortunately the rim profile with the lip seems a bit too complex to allow for a proper seal like that. Any ideas? My feeling is run with a tube until such time that I can get a smaller tube here, and then run a "slit tube" ghetto tubeless with the tyre between the rim and the bead. in which case.... what size tube do I need?

I am so excited about my new road bike that I cannot keep it to myself- I think this is the future of road bikes [certainly for training] in SA. I have been racing road bikes since 1984 and stopped racing competitively in 2005 [family responsibilities]. I however continued to commute to work [on my old Colnago C40] and more recently started mountain biking. My MTB is now such a competent off-road bike [1x11; carbon full sus 29er, etc.] that it has become a very incompetent bike on the road – I still commute. so when looking for a replacement for my old Colnago [still perfect, but you know sometimes you itch]. My list of frustrations/requirements were the following: I ride it on the road but there are certain sections I have to ride that is downright suicidal with traffic and if I could safely skip these by riding off-road, it would make my commute much safer. Furthermore, you are bound to hit potholes etc when riding in the dark and wheels that does not disintegrate when you do so would be a plus.The gearing had to allow road and some limited off road riding [with the 1x11 MTB gearing, you are always out of gears on the road] If you ride off-road, the tyres MUST be tubeless [very hard to find for road bikes], otherwise you’d end up fixing punctures the whole time I do train with my roadie friends on occasion [and may even do some road races ] and therefore a hard tail MTB with narrow tyres will probably not be the answer. The reality is that on a good surface, road bikes are vastly more efficient My Colnago can take 25mm tyres but no wider and the same goes for most road bikes- wider tyres on my road bike is therefore not an option Disc brakes are the future [i think] but finding disc brakes for a tubeless road wheel is almost not possible I got incredible mileage out of my Campagnolo components over the years [20 000km out of my last cassette!] and am fed up with the poor durability of MTB parts. When I bought the Colnago from Willie Engelbrecht in 2004, he told me that eventually, everybody who can, will end up on a Colnago. Now I have to admit, this bike has made me a bit of a snob but settling for some mass produced bike would be like swapping my Lamborghini for a very fast new BMW….just not the same [i wanted a power meter on the bike that did not cost a forture] The only solution to all these questions was therefore a Colnago Prestige cyclocross bike with Campag components. Other specifics I considered include: Compact crankset [50/34T] with 11-29 cassette. shifting is super smooth and i can get up the gravel hills near my house Wheels: very difficult one. i could have gone for a standard 29er wheelset [they are 28" and therefore 700c] but was not sure i would be able to run the higher pressures required for the road. Reality is that i end up riding tyres at 40psi only. In the end i opted for Stan's Grail X rims and rear hub is Powetap [cheapest powermeter i could find]. setting these rims up tubeless was super easy- even with non tubeless tyres. i have the option of buying a spare set of proper road racing wheels in future [should be almost 1kg lighter] Tyres: work in progress as i have still not got ideal set-up [Vittoria CX 31mm]. i will swap these for wider ones. UCI rules limit racing wider than 33mm so not many manufacturers make 35-40mm tyres which i think will be better Disc brakes: currently my only option for Campag was to have cabled calipers and although its better than rim brakes in the wet, i suspect i will upgrade these in 2 years or so when hydrolic ones become availablethe handling of the bike has astounded me. It's not a MTB but i can ride single track and reasonable surfaces and the narrow tyres grips loose surfaces better than i could ever imagined. have only been out on the MTB once since i got this bike a month ago

I have a hardtail 29er which I use principally for my 14k commute (50/50 trails and road). I currently have Continental X-King Protection tyres set up with tape and sealant to run tubeless. I bought the bike second hand and the tyres have never been completely true - my attempts at taking them off and re-seating them have only made things worse. Both front and back tyres have quite a lot of lateral wobble that I am fairly sure is due to misshapen tyres rather than poor seating or a bent rim. Should I bother to replace the tyres? They seem to run okay, but they bug me quite a bit. Thanks in advance.

It's Friday.. I asked my wife to take my front tyre to the Leigh's Cycle Center at the Pavillion as she was already headed that way and the tyre needed sealant and to be pumped up. Got a phone call back saying it is done and the damage is R209!!! Maybe I am not used to the prices in Durban but last year I got my tyre filled with sealant and pumped up at my LBS in Pretoria East MAHALA! They claim that the bottle of sealant used costs R109 and the labour was R100.. To pump up a tyre! I called them and said that was ridiculous and the guy on the phone replied "OK Cool". I guess I will have to continue my quest to find a LBS in Durban... Maybe It's more worthwhile to trek up the hill to Greg Minaar's in PMB once a month.

I ride a 26inch MTB for my commute. I am currently using Maxxis Crossmark Tubeless tyres, which I am quite happy with. For the last couple of months, I have not seen these available in the shops and I am starting to look at alternatives. What tyres would you recommend, keeping in mind that most of my riding is on tar.

Good morning Hubbers We've got a tubeless road wheelset in for review. We were hoping to try them out with a pair of wide tyres. Does anyone know of a local distributor or retailer that stocks tubeless road tyres with a width of 25c or more? We've drawn a blank.

Hi everyone I read some articles online, but I am still confused about what to do about thorns. Let me explain the scenario. Last weekend my wife and I took a ride on our local trails. She runs tubeless and I run tubes with slime. One section was very thorny (duiweldorings) and both of us picked up a number of thorns, which we left in place. Her tyres seemed to be fine during the ride, while mine lost a little bit of air. On Monday I went to check on the bikes and her tubeless was fine, and to my surprise, so was my slime tubes. So here are my questions: 1. Does one always leave in thorns (both tubeless and tubes with slime)? 2. Am I correct that should my tubes with slime be flat tonight, I must remove all thorns, and then patch up the holes? 3. What will happen if I give my tubes with slime some air, will the thorns cause more damage, leading to a flat, due to the increased pressure? 4. What do I do if her tubeless is flat tonight? Thank you!