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Found 3 results

  1. Hi all, i'm looking for a rigid lefty fork. Does anyone know where in SA I can buy one? (I'm hesitant looking abroad but will keep it open as option B). It's for a 29er hardtail MTB. I plan on building a rigid 29er hardtail for gravel grinding and just messing around. If not a lefty rigid fork then where can I look for normal rigid forks? Carbon or aluminium or steel. Tapered or straight steerer Thanks in advance.
  2. Hi everyone Guy, owner of Guy's Bicycle shop, has had his custom Stevens singlespeed stolen. It was taken from his car outside Borusso's in Kenilworth, please keep an eye out for it and get in contact if you hear or see anything. The specs of the bike are as follows: Stevens frame 531 tubing with re-welded sliding SS dropouts.Wtb i23 650b rims laced onto rear wtb single duty hub,front 02 pathfinder hub with Nobbly Nic 2.35 tires.Cherry red raceface atlas cranks.Multi-coloured singlespeed chain.Cherry red Truvatic 40mm stem.Apple green SUPER wide 808bars with bright orange Easton grips.Shimano SLX brakes and a very distinct brown and orange snake skin Fizik saddleIf you do hear anything please get hold of Guy on 0836447516. We are offering a free major service if anyone is able to return this bike Any help is greatly appreciated!
  3. I need some help with the monstercross thing I'm looking at creating. I essentially want to smoosh my two current bikes together (a Rook Scout and a Momsen STR). I want a Curve GMX+ / Salsa Cuttthroat, but I don't have (and don't want to spend, if I'm honest, even if I had) that kind of money. A 2.4" tyre gravel bike with a dropper a.k.a. drop bar rigid MTB a.k.a monstercross bike is where I'm at. Options: Get a 410 - 430mm A-C , tapered steerer fork with MTB tyre clearance for the Scout. If such a thing existed, that'd be the cheapest / easiest way to do it, but alas. I'd be OK with running 650B/27.5, even though I'd prefer 29 for availability and the fact that I love my current wheels. Throw my current fork/front wheel on the Scout. The increased A-C (70mm longer) can be somewhat cancelled out by removing stem spacers, but it'll likely handle weird and have a slack seat angle, which I don't like. It'll also have limited clearance in the back with a 29er wheel in it. Get a frame that'll fit my current mountain bike's components, but has the right geo to work with a drop bar as the STR is too long / stretched out with a drop bar. Ideal specs: Tapered head tube. Recommended A-C of 490mm (~100mm sus furk) Threaded BB. 31.6 seatpost (or 34.9, so I can fit my current dropper with a shim) 460-560 seattube length Effective top tube of 570-600 Rear tyre clearance for 2.4" MTB 70° or slacker head angle Non-boost TA rear wheel (non-boost QR works too, I can just swap out the caps on my Rapide wheels) Post mount disc calipers Steel If I could shorten my large STR frame's top tube by 40mm it'd be pretty much perfect. I tested this idea out, but it just wouldn't be comfortable for anything longer and I'm already on a 50mm stem, even with a 35mm it'd be stretched. Also, yes, I cable tied my shifter and dropper levers on for this experiment, for extra bodge points. I decided this concept needed testing at 22:15 on a Thursday night, k, so it fit the ambiance of the occasion. I also know I can get a custom frame made, but there's fokkol money for that now. So, bikehubland,
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