Sneak peek at the New Magic Shine Light, Xtreme and Economy

[Bike Lore]

Well I am amped to announce that I will get my hands on some valuable merchandise very soon, next week I hope.

 

 

The New MJ-808X Aka Xtreme(ETA 23 March 201) and MJ-808E Aka Economy (ETA April) as soon as I have them I hand I will place an advert in the classifieds. But I have got my hands on some samples of the MJ-808X.

 

Some Background info

 

The magic shine MJ-808 caused a stir in the cycling community over the last few years. This light offered top end light output in a stunning beam pattern but at a faction of the cost of the high end lights.

 

The Old magic shine used the Seoul Semiconductor P7 power LED and had an efficiency of about 70 lumen per watt. Both these new light make use of the new Cree XM-L LED that can pump out +40% more light for the same input power at a clear white light (5000K) that is 100 lumen per watt for the t6 bin.

 

 

What the difference between the two new models?

 

 

The difference between the two lights is manly the driver circuit and what goes with it, Thermal path etc. I also suspect that the LED is of a lower bin T5 for the MJ-808E and T6 for the MJ-808X but that is just speculation at this time. The higher the bin the more efficient but also the more expensive. not sure what bin is? follow this link in summery the LED after they are manufactured get tested and sorted in to a BIN the better ones get labeled T6 and the not so good ones get labeled T5. In most cases there is more T5 then T6 hence the price difference.

 

 

In short the the MJ-808E is designed for economy. Where the MJ-808X is for brute light output.

 

Review MJ-808X (R1300)

 

This baby pumps out very close to 1000 lumen with its 3 Amp driver.

 

Its runtime is 160min(2h40 min) using the standard battery.

 

I have taken some beam shots comparing the Old MJ-808 and the New MJ-808X

 

 

 

 

Speculation about the MJ-808E (T.B.A)

 

It seems that economy what the aim for this light. The driver current has been reduced from 2.6Amp to 2.4Amps. But the result is that this unit puts out 770 lumen vs the old light that did 650 lumen but the MJ-808E runs for 210min on HIGH vs the questionable 180 min on the old MJ-808

 

 

Here is a beam shot caparison between the new MJ808X and the MJ816.

Note that the road is 75meter long and then there is a turn.

 

 

Is should be clear that the MJ808X has a further reach and whiter light than the MJ816. it is also smaller and light. As well as the added protection for over heating

 

The MJ816 does have more light near but the MJ808X does not stand back much.

Edited March 24, 2011 by Hannes Zietsman

[iRob]

I'm getting mine soooooon!

[American Flyers]

Any price! Might be interested!

[Bike Lore]

Any price! Might be interested!

 

Well the MJ-808X cost R1300, I am not going to put pen on paper for the MJ-808E yet. I have made this mistake before.

[grumpy]

Hi Hannes

 

I think the Magic light is an excellent light for the price, have you ever compared (field tested) it against the higher priced lights?

 

I have been cycling early in the morning for a few years, needed a proper light, started off with a Light & Motion Vega, when the battery died I purchased a Hope Vision 4.

 

The Hope Vision 4 claims 900 lumens, it certainly was bright for about 15 meters and after that nothing, I sold it quickly and got a Light & Motion Seca 900, claimed lumens = 900, tested at 950 lumens.

 

In my opinion most cyclist get's hung up on the claimed lumens, what is really important is the beam pattern and how far the light shines, the Seca 900 throws a bright light for approximately 60 to 70 meters, on flashing mode it lights up triangle signs on the road up to 400 meters, normally you don't need such a light on technical MTB rides, I sometimes reach 80km/h on some down hills with my road bike, then you a need a strong light to see what's ahead..

 

I have done a number of night rides with the CWC group, in comparison the old Magic light's beam seems to dissappear when the Seca is switched on..

[Bike Lore]

Hi Grumpy. I hear what you are saying. There is really so many factors involved in a light that it is very hard to make a choice without comparing them yourself to see if it meets your needs. Lumen is one part of the complete package, an important part but just 1. Like you said it is about what you do with the light that makes the difference. Removing the optics will make a very bright light very useless. Same lumen out but lighting the sky is really a wast. if you do road riding a sharp far reaching beam is very impotent like you have stated and side spill is not as much. But if you do trails you don't need to see more than 50m but you really need to see every details possible to pick your line between where you are and where the track turns. Personally i think the MJ808 is a good balance. Having a bright spot that reaches very far +100m and more than enough side spill to help you see where your front wheel should go.

 

What I prefer is a sharp beam on my head and a bright wide light on my handle bar. I do mostly trails and having a lot of light is a must! The head light helps me follow the switchbacks, see over the shadows of trees stumps, roots and rocks caused by my handle bar light and see far down the trail. The handle bar fills the details in and give stability. So it all depends on what your needs are. I use the MJ-808X on my head and modified,mmm not really modified but completely gutted and rebuild, Princeton Tec Switchback 3 generating 1900 lumen.

 

Some thing that is very understated but still important is light color. When i chose a light i want to know what emitter is used and what bin. I prefer to stay below 5000k, that is the temperature of the light, 4300K is perfect for ones eye but LEDs need to do some development to really come to the party in this aria, They lose a lot of efficiency when they go down to a warmer color. That is what makes this Cree XM-L so exiting for me. it is a clear daylight light. Ok a bit cold still but it is going in the right direction.

 

If money is not a object then you can always go for top end lights. And they are better but some times price does not always show value. For me lights are like a new bike and safety equipment. If you have no light you may just as well not have a bike in the winter. If you have a weak light then it is very dangerous to move at any speed never mind ripping up the trail. So when I bought my first light I equated it to new bike and helmet. And i don't skimp on thous.

 

My love affair with lights has been coming on for years. I started with a DIY light and then I gave up and got my self the Princeton Tec Switchback 3 which cost me R3500 in 2007. It was a pathetic light generating 270 Lumen and having a very wide beam. It weighed 1kg. A few months later the MJ-808 came out and it was 2.5 times brighter and 1/5 the price and a 3de the weight. You can imagine the disappointment. I see they still sell the Switchback 3 in the shops. That really scary..... Some LBS have no conscience

 

The fact that one can now buy a very decent light for under R1000 is opening up night riding to so many people and that is what makes the Magicshine a hero to me.

 

Regarding comparing it to high end lights? Well personally if you want to spend more money and have a better light I say go for it there are better lights out there and at premium but remember the MJ808 is based in the Lupine Tesla which it self is a high end light. The new MJ-808 with the Cree XM-L are superior to the old Tesla and more affordable .

Edited March 20, 2011 by Hannes Zietsman

[Bike Lore]

Here is a beam shot caparison between the new MJ808X and the MJ816.

 

Note that the road is 75meter long and then there is a turn.

 

 

Is should be clear that the MJ808X has a further reach and whiter light than the MJ816. it is also smaller and lighter. As well as the added protection for over heating makes the MJ808X a very appealing choice.

 

The MJ816 does have more light near but the MJ808X does not stand back much.

Edited March 24, 2011 by Hannes Zietsman

[Bike Lore]

I had some questions regarding the camera. I would just like to make it clear that the camera was set to manual. the ISO/ aperture / exposure / white balance where the same between the comparing photos.

Edited March 25, 2011 by Hannes Zietsman

[fastbike]

For how many seconds where the shutter open,if you leave it open long enough it can even make a Sigma Evo looks good.

[Bike Lore]

good point. i don't think there is a camera developed that could make the sigma look good. but here is the photos xml data.

 

these photos should not be used to compar other lights that are not mentioned. also ignore the date.stamp. i have not set it correctly.

Edited March 25, 2011 by Hannes Zietsman

[Slowbee]

what is the proposed battery life before recharging and the actual battery life ?

[fastbike]

1 sec, thats good.

[Cassie]

Hi Hannes

 

If you check Geomon(sp?) website...they talk about these lights's battery packs giving all sorts of failres (fire hazard when charging??)

so much so, that ther recalled and developed a new improved battry pack.

Is your similar to the new version?

[Bike Lore]

what is the proposed battery life before recharging and the actual battery life ?

 

 

 

Hi Slowbeen please read: How to prolong lithium-based batteries from www.BatteryUniversity.com

 

"Similar to a mechanical device that wears out faster with heavy use, so also does the depth of discharge (DoD) determine the cycle count. The smaller the depth of discharge, the longer the battery will last. If at all possible, avoid frequent full discharges and charge more often between uses. If full discharges cannot be avoided, try utilizing a larger battery. Partial discharge on Li-ion is fine; there is no memory and the battery does not need periodic full discharge cycles other than to calibrate the fuel gauge on a smart battery.

 

 

 

In short charget it after use. If you know you will stor it for long the best will be to have it at about 75%-40%. if you have one of the mj816 or the new MJ808 then the light should be blue.

 

I have tested the MJ808X and they run for 2h40 +-5min, on a charge. and 7h15 on low.

[Bike Lore]

Hi Hannes

 

If you check Geomon(sp?) website...they talk about these lights's battery packs giving all sorts of failres (fire hazard when charging??)

so much so, that ther recalled and developed a new improved battry pack.

Is your similar to the new version?

 

Hi Cassie. I do not want to down play the danger of charging Li-Ion battery unattended. Yes they are volatile and can cause a fire if handled incorrectly. Never charge a Li-Ion near flammable material. That includes Laptops. cell phones and any other device that uses it.

 

That said. I believe all care are being taken to insure that these battery are save. There are 4 levels of protection in any Magic Shine charging system.

 

1. the charge rate is reduced. it charges the battery pack at C/4 that is 4 times less than what the cells can safely handle. That means that the battery does not heat up.

2. the charger has an upper cutoff that prevent the battery of being over charged. Over charge is the main cause of ignition

3. the battery it self has build in protection to prevent over charge and over current.

4 the battery monitor each cell and prevent over chairing of them.

 

For the cell to be at risk you will need failure of two independent systems. yes this is possible but very, very unlikely. Also some thing to remember is that the main mode of failure is not catastrophic explosion but rather open circuit which result in a lost of capacity of the battery. The second mode is short circuit which will prevent the battery pack from being charged and lastly it is catastrophic explosion.

 

Again I do not want to down play the danger but I do not believe Geomon was concerned with safety as much as trying to force magic shine to up the reliability of the battery. in most cases the battery fails and can not accept or hold charge. Geomon then needs to replace them which cuts in to there bottom line. but that is just my speculation.

 

 

I hope that will put your fears at rest. If not I suggest you should contact the other suppliers to ask them if any of there battery ever explodes.

Edited March 26, 2011 by Hannes Zietsman

[patham]

good point. i don't think there is a camera developed that could make the sigma look good. but here is the photos xml data.

 

these photos should not be used to compar other lights that are not mentioned. also ignore the date.stamp. i have not set it correctly.

 

Hannes, your camera settings I think are on the money. When I was building my own lights, and taking beamshots so I could compare to what others were getting, I was using your exact settings. I personally think that with point & shoots, at f2.8, an exposure of 1.5 seconds would be exactly what my night-vision adjusted eye would see, but my camera never had that ability (had a choice of 1 sec or 2 sec).