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MTB Brake Upgrade - Shimano XT Brakeset


Caerus

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You shall not be sorry sir.

 

Have attached some clips, but basically IS Mount is two 'lugs' placed on the fork, or frame into which brakes are 'side' mounted, 90 deg.to the caliper.

 

Post Mount are two 'posts' that stick out and the caliper is mounted direct, or on adapters.

 

Adapters are available for all sorts of variations and rotor sizes. Purchase carefully. XTR can also be a little difficult at times.

 

You can see that the ETE measure differs between the mounts as well, hence the need for adapters.

 

The adapter shown(KCNC) will mount IS calipers to Post mount.

 

The XT caliper shown will mount to Post direct. You would need an adapter (to suit rotor size) to mount it to IS Mount.

 

(What I would give for a pair of SAINTS ! :drool:)

post-20304-0-26665200-1301558004.jpg

post-20304-0-98348400-1301558011.jpg

post-20304-0-98638400-1301558031.jpg

post-20304-0-52037600-1301558047.jpg

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You shall not be sorry sir.

 

Have attached some clips, but basically IS Mount is two 'lugs' placed on the fork, or frame into which brakes are 'side' mounted, 90 deg.to the caliper.

 

Post Mount are two 'posts' that stick out and the caliper is mounted direct, or on adapters.

 

Adapters are available for all sorts of variations and rotor sizes. Purchase carefully. XTR can also be a little difficult at times.

 

You can see that the ETE measure differs between the mounts as well, hence the need for adapters.

 

The adapter shown(KCNC) will mount IS calipers to Post mount.

 

The XT caliper shown will mount to Post direct. You would need an adapter (to suit rotor size) to mount it to IS Mount.

 

(What I would give for a pair of SAINTS ! :drool:)

 

 

I do hope I wont be sorry, the current HOPE C2 I have on my recently done up GT are just not doing it for me(dont want an "Evans" to happening to me).

 

The Saints are the dogs bollocks :drool:

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Ok cool, thanks for that :thumbup: . So basically the new set goes onto my Trance, with the old SLX going onto my GT Hardtail.

 

Cool - so you already have the SLX's. I was in two minds as to whether to open that can of worms :) I was torn between the two but ended up going for the XT's. Although they stop like a handbrake on roids, I'm not overly impressed by the squealing banshee noise that gets emitted from the my back brake. If I had to do it again, I may just have opted for the SLX's and used the difference in price to upgrade some other bits and pieces :)

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Cool - so you already have the SLX's. I was in two minds as to whether to open that can of worms :) I was torn between the two but ended up going for the XT's. Although they stop like a handbrake on roids, I'm not overly impressed by the squealing banshee noise that gets emitted from the my back brake. If I had to do it again, I may just have opted for the SLX's and used the difference in price to upgrade some other bits and pieces :)

 

 

Would that not be from pad & rotor choice?

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Would that not be from pad & rotor choice?

The general consensus seems to be that it is mostly due to the sintered metal pads that come with the brakeset, but I'm not going to buy new pads just yet. Will definitely try out the organic pads when the time comes.

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Cool - so you already have the SLX's. I was in two minds as to whether to open that can of worms :) I was torn between the two but ended up going for the XT's. Although they stop like a handbrake on roids, I'm not overly impressed by the squealing banshee noise that gets emitted from the my back brake. If I had to do it again, I may just have opted for the SLX's and used the difference in price to upgrade some other bits and pieces :)

 

What pads and rotors are you running?

 

Right. Should have read on.

 

Try this.

Wipe the rotor down with Isopropyl Alcohol.

Place in a saucer of coke for 30min.

Wipe again with IPA. Keep grubby fingers off the braking surface.

Abrade the surface of the pads with some light grit sandpaper, slightly!

Re-assemble.

Edited by The Drongo
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What pads and rotors are you running?

 

Right. Should have read on.

 

Try this.

Wipe the rotor down with Isopropyl Alcohol.

Place in a saucer of coke for 30min.

Wipe again with IPA. Keep grubby fingers off the braking surface.

Abrade the surface of the pads with some light grit sandpaper, slightly!

Re-assemble.

Thanks for the tip! Will give it a bash this weekend.

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What pads and rotors are you running?

 

Right. Should have read on.

 

Try this.

Wipe the rotor down with Isopropyl Alcohol.

Place in a saucer of coke for 30min.

Wipe again with IPA. Keep grubby fingers off the braking surface.

Abrade the surface of the pads with some light grit sandpaper, slightly!

Re-assemble.

 

Whats the coke doing? We are talking Coca Cola here :unsure:

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Whats the coke doing? We are talking Coca Cola here :unsure:

 

Yes bud.

 

Coca Cola. I would only suggest wasting Coke on Hope rotors. :D

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Yes bud.

 

Coca Cola. I would only suggest wasting Coke on Hope rotors. :D

 

 

Whats going on with the coke? Why use it :unsure:

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Whats going on with the coke? Why use it :unsure:

 

In short (and you can use other things not commercially available) it breaks the surface of the stainless steel.

 

Sometimes new rotors/pads cause the braking surface to 'glaze'.

 

Stainless is a 'self healing' metal, so it just disrupts it enough to get the pads biting sweetly, without the squeal. Although it is not the only reason for squeal.

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In short (and you can use other things not commercially available) it breaks the surface of the stainless steel.

 

Sometimes new rotors/pads cause the braking surface to 'glaze'.

 

Stainless is a 'self healing' metal, so it just disrupts it enough to get the pads biting sweetly, without the squeal. Although it is not the only reason for squeal.

 

 

OK' that makes sense. I was under the impression that using Coke in such applications was a fallacy. :o

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