How to learn to do bigger jumps?

[banna]

Attention all DH guru's: how does one start to learn the trade of doing bigger jumps? Is it as simple as starting small and gradually building up your confidence until you can do the big mothers? I currently do these half a meter log drops and jumps without too much hassle, but whenever I see the okes do these moerse gap jumps over the fire roads, I just think that there's just no way I'm gonna be able to do that someday.

 

At the moment I only have a 6 inch travel bike and no body armour/full face helmet, so I guess that also helps with giving you a bit more courage to try bigger things? Is is necessary to buy these right from the start or only once you start hitting the bigger jumps?

 

Where is the best place to learn? G SPot in Stellenbosch?

[patches]

ok, first off I must insert the disclaimer that I in no way consider myself a guru, and prefer not to be held liable for anyinformation that leads to injury,

 

But yeah... bike... 6" bike is fine! Brandon Semenuk (one of my favourite dirt jumpers and slopestyle riders) said in his pre Redbull Rampage 2010 interview that one could do those drops etc. on just about any bike... but if a dirt jump bike was used then ones margin for error is a lot less. Hence why they use DH bikes, or in Semenuk's case, a modified slopetyle bike with a modified Fox 40 on it. (it's a pity he broke his collarbone before the event and couldn't compete.

 

So again... 6" travel... perfect! You'll have the "forgiveness" but won't have to preload like crazy to try get a 20kg 8" DH bike airborne.

 

Next is the body armour and full face. Yes, these items do add confidence. I would say as far as armour goes... knee guards are essential. Ones knees are usually the first appendages to take a hit. Upper body armour... optional. I don't use mine when jumping and freeriding (becasue it's bulky), only for DH. And the full face... I use mine when I'm going to be trying something new or more dangerous then usual (and for DH ofcourse)... but I'll jump with a normal lid. Out of all my bails, only 2 (so far, haha) have involved my head hitting the ground and only 1 of those has impacted the lower part of a full face. But it is nice to have that added confidence that the protection is there.

 

Now for the "learning curve"... I have found that riding with others helps bigtime. Ride with guys that jump. Ride with guys that do the jumps you want to to. Not only will advise for specific jumps be available from them, but they'll egg you on to push yourself beyond your comfort zone. (Just make sure they only push you past your comfort zone and not past your current ability... that's the key to learing... break out of your comfort zone... not beyond your ability, haha)

 

Often I've avoided a certain jump in a line, until I feel the peer pressure. Although I wouldn't recommend it, riding in a train (2 or more riders riding close behind each other) is a great way to turn up the heat and force one to just do it. But careful... different riders jump at different paces, and if you mess up you may be ridden over. So again, I wouldn't recommend it... but it does work

 

Well... that's my long winded answer... hope it was somewhat informative

Edited May 31, 2011 by patches

[gongmech]

My friend that does DH says you just pedal faster and pray...but then again he's a bit of a cowboy , but RESPECT!!

[banna]

ok, first off I must insert the disclaimer that I in no way consider myself a guru, and prefer not to be held liable for anyinformation that leads to injury,

 

But yeah... bike... 6" bike is fine! Brandon Semenuk (one of my favourite dirt jumpers and slopestyle riders) said in his pre Redbull Rampage 2010 interview that one could do those drops etc. on just about any bike... but if a dirt jump bike was used then ones margin for error is a lot less. Hence why they use DH bikes, or in Semenuk's case, a modified slopetyle bike with a modified Fox 40 on it. (it's a pity he broke his collarbone before the event and couldn't compete.

 

So again... 6" travel... perfect! You'll have the "forgiveness" but won't have to preload like crazy to try get a 20kg 8" DH bike airborne.

 

Next is the body armour and full face. Yes, these items do add confidence. I would say as far as armour goes... knee guards are essential. Ones knees are usually the first appendages to take a hit. Upper body armour... optional. I don't use mine when jumping and freeriding (becasue it's bulky), only for DH. And the full face... I use mine when I'm going to be trying something new or more dangerous then usual (and for DH ofcourse)... but I'll jump with a normal lid. Out of all my bails, only 2 (so far, haha) have involved my head hitting the ground and only 1 of those has impacted the lower part of a full face. But it is nice to have that added confidence that the protection is there.

 

Now for the "learning curve"... I have found that riding with others helps bigtime. Ride with guys that jump. Ride with guys that do the jumps you want to to. Not only will advise for specific jumps be available from them, but they'll egg you on to push yourself beyond your comfort zone. (Just make sure they only push you past your comfort zone and not past your current ability... that's the key to learing... break out of your comfort zone... not beyond your ability, haha)

 

Often I've avoided a certain jump in a line, until I feel the peer pressure. Although I wouldn't recommend it, riding in a train (2 or more riders riding close behind each other) is a great way to turn up the heat and force one to just do it. But careful... different riders jump at different paces, and if you mess up you may be ridden over. So again, I wouldn't recommend it... but it does work

 

Well... that's my long winded answer... hope it was somewhat informative

 

Awesome. Thx boet. Ja, like everything, practice makes perfect. I must say the one thing I struggle with at the moment is the pace at which you need to take jumps. I guess you get the feel of it after a while, where you sort of instinctivly know what speed is required? It is better to rather go quicker than slower?

[patches]

Awesome. Thx boet. Ja, like everything, practice makes perfect. I must say the one thing I struggle with at the moment is the pace at which you need to take jumps. I guess you get the feel of it after a while, where you sort of instinctivly know what speed is required? It is better to rather go quicker than slower?

 

**DISCLAIMER: I am in no ways a jumping guru**

 

Sorry, just had to insert that again, due to the fact that what I'm about to say is my opinion, and may not be the best method...

 

but yeah! I find that it's better to go faster when starting out.. well on gap jumps atleast. Flat landing a jump because you overshot it is way more managable than getting thrown over the bars cos you came up short.

 

On tables however... slower can be better. Hit it at a pace and try working the jump and adjusting speed until you clear it.

 

I myself, and a "fast jumper"... I use quite a bit of pace, whereas the more controlled jumpers can clear the same jumps and get more height even though they go slower. It's all to do with technique and boost.

 

But as you say... practice makes perfect. Start off by using pace. As you get more comfortable you will find yourself naturally slowing down and boosting more.

[banna]

**DISCLAIMER: I am in no ways a jumping guru**

 

Sorry, just had to insert that again, due to the fact that what I'm about to say is my opinion, and may not be the best method...

 

but yeah! I find that it's better to go faster when starting out.. well on gap jumps atleast. Flat landing a jump because you overshot it is way more managable than getting thrown over the bars cos you came up short.

 

On tables however... slower can be better. Hit it at a pace and try working the jump and adjusting speed until you clear it.

 

I myself, and a "fast jumper"... I use quite a bit of pace, whereas the more controlled jumpers can clear the same jumps and get more height even though they go slower. It's all to do with technique and boost.

 

But as you say... practice makes perfect. Start off by using pace. As you get more comfortable you will find yourself naturally slowing down and boosting more.

 

Ja it's amazing how some okes just make it look so effortless. Was in Jonkershoek a few months ago at the Africa champs. We were standing next to one of the road gaps. Was very impressed how smooth and slow guys like Andrew Neethling took these big jumps.

[DJR]

Nice answer Patches!

[Dunkel]

Attention all DH guru's: how does one start to learn the trade of doing bigger jumps? Is it as simple as starting small and gradually building up your confidence until you can do the big mothers? I currently do these half a meter log drops and jumps without too much hassle, but whenever I see the okes do these moerse gap jumps over the fire roads, I just think that there's just no way I'm gonna be able to do that someday.

 

At the moment I only have a 6 inch travel bike and no body armour/full face helmet, so I guess that also helps with giving you a bit more courage to try bigger things? Is is necessary to buy these right from the start or only once you start hitting the bigger jumps?

 

Where is the best place to learn? G SPot in Stellenbosch?

 

Oi boet, I also just started DH recently and also trying to go bigger every next ride I do.. I've progressed every ride by just gunning it, but still a bit nervous when it comes to the biggies. I ride every wkend the Jonkers Dh trial and wana try Gspot some time as well (only done gspot with my XC bike). So let me know, then we can go train together on the trialz and hit those bigger jumps.

 

Cheerzzz

[banna]

Oi boet, I also just started DH recently and also trying to go bigger every next ride I do.. I've progressed every ride by just gunning it, but still a bit nervous when it comes to the biggies. I ride every wkend the Jonkers Dh trial and wana try Gspot some time as well (only done gspot with my XC bike). So let me know, then we can go train together on the trialz and hit those bigger jumps.

 

Cheerzzz

 

Do you ride with a full on DH bike or also more of an AM bike?

 

I go down the DH trail at Jonkers every week end, but take the chicken runs whenever there's a gap jump. And that's gotto stop! Need to get some bigger balls or buy some body armour!

[Dunkel]

Do you ride with a full on DH bike or also more of an AM bike?

 

I go down the DH trail at Jonkers every week end, but take the chicken runs whenever there's a gap jump. And that's gotto stop! Need to get some bigger balls or buy some body armour!

 

Yeah bought full on 2nd DH bike (07 giant ac1, with sick upgrades) so it's got a lighter frame, but sick susp.. also ride with full helmut, shin/knee pad.. Prob gona buy some body armour next week at Chris Willemse cycle shop. but equip is just so damn k@k expensive.. but every Dh ride is just so damn worthit!

 

I would advise to get some body armour, Check this link.. think it's the best buy for good overall protection:

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/661-assault-pressure-suit

 

I'm gona do the 42km ride this wkend at Robertson wacky winetour on my xc bike.. So next next weekend 11/12 June, I'll be spending lots of time at Jonkers. My good bud wants to take some pic's for his digital profile/projects. So you welcome to join, I will be practising some of the bigger jumps.

[banna]

**DISCLAIMER: I am in no ways a jumping guru**

 

Sorry, just had to insert that again, due to the fact that what I'm about to say is my opinion, and may not be the best method...

 

but yeah! I find that it's better to go faster when starting out.. well on gap jumps atleast. Flat landing a jump because you overshot it is way more managable than getting thrown over the bars cos you came up short.

 

On tables however... slower can be better. Hit it at a pace and try working the jump and adjusting speed until you clear it.

 

I myself, and a "fast jumper"... I use quite a bit of pace, whereas the more controlled jumpers can clear the same jumps and get more height even though they go slower. It's all to do with technique and boost.

 

But as you say... practice makes perfect. Start off by using pace. As you get more comfortable you will find yourself naturally slowing down and boosting more.

 

Maybe a dumb question, but is it better to have the rear end a bit stiffer when jumping? It must be easier to boost then? Or am I smoking my socks, because the landing will be harder then?

[TYGA]

This is quite an interesting article ...

 

http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/skills-qa-how-to-stay-straight-off-jumps-24040

[patches]

Maybe a dumb question, but is it better to have the rear end a bit stiffer when jumping? It must be easier to boost then? Or am I smoking my socks, because the landing will be harder then?

 

not dumb question at all.

 

As far as harsh landings go... most of this can be taken care of by technique. Look at danny MacCaskill or Chris Akrigg for instance. they drop off huge structures onto flat, but use their body to absorb.

 

So as far as the prelad of your rear shock goes... I would leave it the way you have it set... and just preload the bike when you launch. Sure you won't get the height or distance of a DJ bike or BMX, but you'll be fine.

 

However... If your rebound is running pretty fast, I would slow that down. THe last thing you want is for the tail to kick up when you launch. I forgot to reset my rebound once after a strip-n-rebuild of my FR bike, and I ended up being bucked over the bars on the jump.

 

So yeah... your rear rebound should be slower than your front.

[banna]

Yeah bought full on 2nd DH bike (07 giant ac1, with sick upgrades) so it's got a lighter frame, but sick susp.. also ride with full helmut, shin/knee pad.. Prob gona buy some body armour next week at Chris Willemse cycle shop. but equip is just so damn k@k expensive.. but every Dh ride is just so damn worthit!

 

I would advise to get some body armour, Check this link.. think it's the best buy for good overall protection:

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product/661-assault-pressure-suit

 

I'm gona do the 42km ride this wkend at Robertson wacky winetour on my xc bike.. So next next weekend 11/12 June, I'll be spending lots of time at Jonkers. My good bud wants to take some pic's for his digital profile/projects. So you welcome to join, I will be practising some of the bigger jumps.

 

Cool stuff. I will probably see you there.

[patches]

This is quite an interesting article ...

 

http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/skills-qa-how-to-stay-straight-off-jumps-24040

 

Good find XTC1

 

...what is reffered to as "pump" in this article, is the same as the "boost" and "preload" mentioned in my posts.

 

Another useful tip is to stay loose. When you tense up in the air (during your flight), it gives the effect that me and friends call "dead sailor"... you lose control of the bike and almost feel like you're drifting.

 

Staying loose combats this. Relax.

 

Sometimes I even give the bike a bit of a wiggle, or movement in the air, just to make sure I'm still relaxed and not tensing up.

 

Most of the bails I've had whilst jumping are from being too tense and drifting out of control. The catch 22 comes in when you realize you need to relax after a bail, in order to fix what you got wrong. (easier said than done)

Edited May 31, 2011 by patches

[banna]

not dumb question at all.

 

As far as harsh landings go... most of this can be taken care of by technique. Look at danny MacCaskill or Chris Akrigg for instance. they drop off huge structures onto flat, but use their body to absorb.

 

So as far as the prelad of your rear shock goes... I would leave it the way you have it set... and just preload the bike when you launch. Sure you won't get the height or distance of a DJ bike or BMX, but you'll be fine.

 

However... If your rebound is running pretty fast, I would slow that down. THe last thing you want is for the tail to kick up when you launch. I forgot to reset my rebound once after a strip-n-rebuild of my FR bike, and I ended up being bucked over the bars on the jump.

 

So yeah... your rear rebound should be slower than your front.

 

Cool bananas. My bike has the normal Fox RP23 at the rear and the rebound is set to slow when in the "soft" pro pedal setting, so I'll just stick to that like you said. And ja, up front the fork is set to a quick rebound, so I guess it's all systems go!