Grease - Non Petroleum based to protect rubber seals?

[Skylark]

Grease - Non Petroleum based to protect seals?

Seen comments etc around the web - do not use petroleum or metal(such as lithium) based grease on rubber seals and washers as it perishes them.

Such a place is in a fork - ie when doing a fork service.

Must use silicone/Teflon or vegetable based grease

 

Is this true?

Why do bearing seals not perish when petroleum based greases are used?

Went to local LBS - Workshop had a big tub of....Yamaha Blue Marine Petroleum grease (which is awesome grease - and cheap , check your local boating shop)

Am I getting the story a little wonky somewhere?

What grease and were!!

I'm looking at ordering some Rock n Roll grease - expensive but a tube/tub will last me years

http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id37.html

What greases have you guys used & loved?

And bottom line is I want grease that protects my precious bike's moving parts and gets me rolling like lightening!

[Minion]

Bearing seals are usually made from nitrile rubber (NBR) that is more resistant to greases, so it's OK to use a lithium-based grease there.

 

Not sure about fork seals, though. Johan Bornman would know more about that.

[Skylark]

Bearing seals are usually made from nitrile rubber (NBR) that is more resistant to greases, so it's OK to use a lithium-based grease there.

 

Not sure about fork seals, though. Johan Bornman would know more about that.

And general seals around a bike?

It's always recommended to spread a thin layer of grease on any and all seals before re-assembling parts , seals seem to crop up everywhere!

[Minion]

And general seals around a bike?

It's always recommended to spread a thin layer of grease on any and all seals before re-assembling parts , seals seem to crop up everywhere!

Commercial O-rings also tend to be made from NBR rubber, so other seals will probably be OK. Seals should be cheap and easy to replace, so there's not that much of a risk in experimenting with a different grease, so long as you check it regularly.

[Skylark]

Commercial O-rings also tend to be made from NBR rubber, so other seals will probably be OK. Seals should be cheap and easy to replace, so there's not that much of a risk in experimenting with a different grease, so long as you check it regularly.

But proprietary seals that come on many bike parts are not cheap and easy to replace?

They are normally impossible to find and ridiculously expensive!!

Plus having a seal start leaking some fluid or letting in surface destroying grit out on the trail because my grease perished it is what I am trying to avoid!

 

Model car/plane guys swear by silicone grease and gunsmiths/air rifle guys as well

[manbearpig]

You're looking for rubber grease. It's red. Should get it at any good midas or hardware.

[Minion]

But proprietary seals that come on many bike parts are not cheap and easy to replace?

They are normally impossible to find and ridiculously expensive!!

Plus having a seal start leaking some fluid or letting in surface destroying grit out on the trail because my grease perished it is what I am trying to avoid!

It's often possible to find a cheaper generic for proprietary seals (I believe Enduro is one brand mentioned often here).

 

In the examples I've seen, the grease does not spectacularly destroy the seal the moment you apply it - it takes a few days to weeks of gradual deterioration. That's why it's important to keep eye on the part when you're experimenting - if the seal is starting to go, you'll notice it before any major damage occurs.

[Skylark]

It's often possible to find a cheaper generic for proprietary seals (I believe Enduro is one brand mentioned often here).

 

In the examples I've seen, the grease does not spectacularly destroy the seal the moment you apply it - it takes a few days to weeks of gradual deterioration. That's why it's important to keep eye on the part when you're experimenting - if the seal is starting to go, you'll notice it before any major damage occurs.

 

But bru the point is I don't want to learn the hard way!

[Minion]

But bru the point is I don't want to learn the hard way!

In that case, what does the manual say? If you don't have the paper manuals, have a browse through the various part manufacturers' websites.

[Skylark]

In that case, what does the manual say? If you don't have the paper manuals, have a browse through the various part manufacturers' websites.

Thats why I am asking here - I'm confused

[Johan Bornman]

Bearing seals are usually made from nitrile rubber (NBR) that is more resistant to greases, so it's OK to use a lithium-based grease there.

 

Not sure about fork seals, though. Johan Bornman would know more about that.

 

Edman, you're right. O-rings and many other seals are made from Nitrile or Buna. Two names for the same synthetic rubber. This rubber is impervious to hydrocarbons and compatible with most greases we can buy from automotive and similar suppliers.

 

Fork seals, depending on the brand, are made from either Nitrile or polyurethane. Again, both are compatible with most household/automotive greases.

 

The one exception is when the lubricant contains chlorine, such as in many "silicone" sprays. This makes the nitrile swell to a point where it jams the device.

 

As someone mentioned, you can buy special rubber grease but there is no need for this in any bike part other than brake components. Here standard "soap based" greases are incompatible with the brake fluid.

 

As a rule of thumb, bicycles don't require any special grease. No need for gun grease, Boeing grease, turbo charger grease, special Judy Butter, White Thunderstorm, Crystal magic or any such expensive greases.

[Skylark]

Edman, you're right. O-rings and many other seals are made from Nitrile or Buna. Two names for the same synthetic rubber. This rubber is impervious to hydrocarbons and compatible with most greases we can buy from automotive and similar suppliers.

 

Fork seals, depending on the brand, are made from either Nitrile or polyurethane. Again, both are compatible with most household/automotive greases.

 

The one exception is when the lubricant contains chlorine, such as in many "silicone" sprays. This makes the nitrile swell to a point where it jams the device.

 

As someone mentioned, you can buy special rubber grease but there is no need for this in any bike part other than brake components. Here standard "soap based" greases are incompatible with the brake fluid.

 

As a rule of thumb, bicycles don't require any special grease. No need for gun grease, Boeing grease, turbo charger grease, special Judy Butter, White Thunderstorm, Crystal magic or any such expensive greases.

 

So basically any good quality grease can be used on any modern day rubber seals on MTB's? (excl brake system)

Got some Yamaha Yamalube blue waterproof grease (has aluminium & petroleum in it) - extreme pressure , anti-corrosion grease for R68 for 450g LBS says its a winner

Esp at that price!

What's easily avail and good for giving my fork stanchions/rear shock shaft some lube before a ride? I have heard that some oils shouldn't be used on stanchions as they will contaminate the fork oil - is that hocus pocus?

Edited October 3, 2011 by SkyLark

[The Drongo]

So basically any good quality grease can be used on any modern day rubber seals on MTB's? (excl brake system)

Got some Yamaha Yamalube blue waterproof grease (has aluminium & petroleum in it) - extreme pressure , anti-corrosion grease for R68 for 450g LBS says its a winner

Esp at that price!

What's easily avail and good for giving my fork stanchions/rear shock shaft some lube before a ride? I have heard that some oils shouldn't be used on stanchions as they will contaminate the fork oil - is that hocus pocus?

 

Motorex 2000

 

And don't get silicone anywhere near the gizzards of your shock/fork.

[Johan Bornman]

So basically any good quality grease can be used on any modern day rubber seals on MTB's? (excl brake system)

Got some Yamaha Yamalube blue waterproof grease (has aluminium & petroleum in it) - extreme pressure , anti-corrosion grease for R68 for 450g LBS says its a winner

Esp at that price!

What's easily avail and good for giving my fork stanchions/rear shock shaft some lube before a ride? I have heard that some oils shouldn't be used on stanchions as they will contaminate the fork oil - is that hocus pocus?

Please include Blue Yamalube Extreme Pressure WaterProof Tinfoil grease in my list of fancy grease that is an overkill on a bicyle. Al those bogus additives have the same effect as the Whiter than White additives in your washing powder or toothpaste - ziltch.

 

Yes, it is hokus pokus that stanchions should be lubricated. In fact, they cannot be lubed. The wiper seal is designed to wipe any lube away - piling it up at the top of the stroke.

 

Stanchion seals re self-lubricating. They adn teh stanchions are designed to allow a very thin layer of oil oil to pass through from the inside, thus lubing the seal as it moves over the stanchion. Otherwise it will burn away in ten strokes. It is a one-way seal - allowing oil from the inside to pass, but not dirt from the outside.

 

Grease suitable for bike use is whatever grease is on special at your local Midas. Pay no more than R40 a 500g tub.

 

Wash and love your bike, go ride, drink beer and stop reading bike magazines.

[Skylark]

Please include Blue Yamalube Extreme Pressure WaterProof Tinfoil grease in my list of fancy grease that is an overkill on a bicyle. Al those bogus additives have the same effect as the Whiter than White additives in your washing powder or toothpaste - ziltch.

 

Yes, it is hokus pokus that stanchions should be lubricated. In fact, they cannot be lubed. The wiper seal is designed to wipe any lube away - piling it up at the top of the stroke.

 

Stanchion seals re self-lubricating. They adn teh stanchions are designed to allow a very thin layer of oil oil to pass through from the inside, thus lubing the seal as it moves over the stanchion. Otherwise it will burn away in ten strokes. It is a one-way seal - allowing oil from the inside to pass, but not dirt from the outside.

 

Grease suitable for bike use is whatever grease is on special at your local Midas. Pay no more than R40 a 500g tub.

 

Wash and love your bike, go ride, drink beer and stop reading bike magazines.

 

I understand your point becuase regular and consistent maintenance pretty much negates the need for any super-human super duper products as the product is replaced on such a regular basis - but for us incompetent mortals that small edge the slightly to ridiculously more expensive products gives is very valuable I'd say!

 

I have definitely noticed well made products do last longer/have better adhesion & have noticeably better characteristics (although manufacturers love re-branding their formulations as speciality & pricer products : snowmobile grease , marine grease , race grease , atv grease that are all basically the identical product)

 

That yamalube grease is a pretty good middle of the road grease (1/5 of the price of a similar product "made for MTB" bearing grease by Rock n Roll)

Its waterproof qualities is definitely useful and I have heard from 2 sources I trust how unbelievably resistant it is to even sustained water flushings.

Cheaper products may not be waterproof at all or will be flushed off the metal at the slightest hint of more than a splash of water.

 

R35k bike with midas branded or castrol budget grease - eeish no , I'd rather buy some expensive LBS grease that although over priced is generally of most excellent quality and that tub or tube will last for years anyways

I'm maintaining a R25k - R300K car or R15k - R70k bike , I reckon paying a premium for top notch (not most expensive mind you) products is wisdom , money in the bank and leads to a greater enjoyment of the item being maintained.

 

On this topic of price vs quality/quantity a hubber put me on to Meguiars polish - 4 times the price of Rally/spanjaard polish or what not from Midas (although midas did sell me the Meguiars polish) and it is without a doubt worth the price paid, I bought that and the dashboard stuff and it outlasts the cheap stuff by a huge and significant margin , smells good and the polish gives an unreal shine.

A noticeable and very useful difference

Edited October 3, 2011 by SkyLark

[HomerSimpson]

Grease suitable for bike use is whatever grease is on special at your local Midas. Pay no more than R40 a 500g tub.

 

Wash and love your bike, go ride, drink beer and stop reading bike magazines.

 

+1 on all of the Bornman above....