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Service - linkages on soft tail mtb


Nish4

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What precautions do you take when servicing the linkages on your bike ?

How often, what torque when tightening and do you lube the ball joints on both ends of the rear shock ?

How often do you inspect the stem bearings as well ?

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What precautions do you take when servicing the linkages on your bike ?

How often, what torque when tightening and do you lube the ball joints on both ends of the rear shock ?

How often do you inspect the stem bearings as well ?

I learned the hard way a couple of weeks ago, never checked my rocker link bolts, one started loosening and the effect was a cracked rocker coming down oom piet's at van gaalens.

 

No I make 100% sure before a ride that they are torqued to the correct setting...each bolt has its own setting from 200NM to 8-11NM

 

Stem bearings???? you mean headset...ag those can go on a ride, don't check them often, you will know when they are worn

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Any idea where I can get the torque settings for a Volcan ?

mmmm mine is actually written on the bolts, but it might be best to go to a dealer, oh and get a torque wrench, but that is a given

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good idea to check those little buggers every now and then.my pivot bearing got ovalized because of a loose bolt.drilling and sleeves were the end result at big cost.

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Got the torque wrench but I am paranoid in getting the values just right as the spacers are aluminium !

I am worried about the ball joints on either side of the shock as these are dry ?

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Spoke to JB at yellow saddle, he reckons you need to remove the shock and move the rear of the frame and feel for any notches. The rear bearings are cartridge bearings and don’t need servicing only inspection. The two swivel ball bushes on either side of the shock should be dry as lube will attract dirt and there is no way to completely seal these.

 

I will inspect mine tonight and use a dash of blue loctite for good measure.

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Just FYI the bushings in the shock eyelets are DU bushings which run dry and should not be lubed. The material selection is done in such a way that no lubrication is required between the DU bush/mounting hardware interface.

 

The DU bush is a consumable, and should be replaced as soon as you feel the slightest play or when it is starting to make grooves in the mounting hardware.

 

@Johan Bornman. What is your opinion about the needle bearing + spacer installation(RWC sells such a kit) in lieu of the DU bush and mounting hardware?

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Just FYI the bushings in the shock eyelets are DU bushings which run dry and should not be lubed. The material selection is done in such a way that no lubrication is required between the DU bush/mounting hardware interface.

 

The DU bush is a consumable, and should be replaced as soon as you feel the slightest play or when it is starting to make grooves in the mounting hardware.

 

@Johan Bornman. What is your opinion about the needle bearing + spacer installation(RWC sells such a kit) in lieu of the DU bush and mounting hardware?

 

Sorry, I can't tell you since I've never encountered them.

 

Howevr, roller/needle bearings perform very poorly in self-greased applications. They don't recycle grease as well as balls. They prefer to run in an oil bath. Further, any roller element that oscillates rather than roll, spells trouble.

 

I think...experimentation will tell one day when I am big enough for my own full suspension bike - that nylon bushings wil be better.

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