GoPro Soft Ware ?

[Mr SingleTrack]

What attachments are you guys using? I find the handlebar too nausea-inducing. Handlebar moves too much compared to the rest of the bike. Helmet sucks because you never see the proper height of jumps - Patches can do cool slowmo killer jumps and it looks like he's rolling along on the lawn.

 

Chest is ok if I make it very tight (otherwise bounces everywhere), but I have to reduce the POV otherwise I get my face (edit: and arms - very distracting seeing parts of the rider). Maybe I could point it more down - just have to get the angle right. But it's a bit sucky when all you see is the ground - want to keep telling the camera dude to pick it up a bit.

 

I had a good result with it pointing backwards from the seatpost. Element of surprise because you don't see what's coming until it has. Can't do a whole video like that though.

 

I'd like to try the roll-cage attachment and put it on thicker parts of my bike. Less left-right movement, better idea of the terrain and sometimes it's nice seeing the suspension working.

 

I like the chesty view but find that I've got to make it too tight to get the recording smooth. It's ok for a short ride but I'll avoide the marathon rides...

 

The handle bar mount is ok but I too find the movement slightly problematic.

 

On longer rides the question is where do you mount it so that the lens stay clean

[rouxtjie]

Please let us know the results of this...

will do as well as checking frames dropped with current class 4 card recording. If no frames are dropped, a better sd card class won't help.

[GoPro SA]

Hey guys

 

As for software, Windows Movie Maker is a great start. We use Sony Vegas and Adobe Premiere when editing our stuff on PC. For Mac, our shorter edits are done in iMovie and then go all the way up to Final Cut Pro for the big stuff when managing loads of data - like the Absa Cape Epic.

 

For the Absa Cape Epic, we used 720p @ 50fps on all our cameras... giving us HD footage [yes, 720 is still HD - exactly what you're seeing on Dstv HD channels] and the best frame rate to give a smoother ride. Also, 50fps is easier to slow down in editing for the slowmo shots as there is already more data per second... so you don't notice the distortion you would if stretching the 25 frames.

 

In terms of mountings, the Chesty is great and we rode the 240km TransKaroo with one this weekend. If then angle isn't quite what you want, remember you can set the camera in the inverted position!

 

For the handlebars, rather mount the camera on your stem [unless you have a square stem] with a Roll Bar mount - it'll provide a tighter fit thanks to the rubber lining and a more stable image as you won't need to use the 3-way pivot.

 

Let us know if there's anything we can help with...

[GoPro SA]

Sorry, forgot to chat about the SD cards...

 

We use class 10 cards across the board, which are a requirement for the higher speed features of the camera - like the timelapse function at 0.5sec intervals.

 

A Class 6 card from a reputable brand [like Lexar or Sandisk] will go further than a 'no name brand' class 10 card.... so be careful what you buy. While slow cards [class 2 & some 4's] may drop frames, it's more likely to corrupt your file altogether.

 

In some cases, people mistake intense shake & jittery image as dropped frames instead of looking at frame rate and the placement of the camera.

[Mr SingleTrack]

I’ve heard there is a product that you can apply (spray) to the lens (the cover, not the camera lens itself) that keeps the lens clean (e.g. water just run off it so you don’t get blurred videos after just 1 water crossing etc). Has anyone tried this and does it actually work?

[Zook]

In terms of mountings, the Chesty is great and we rode the 240km TransKaroo with one this weekend.

 

Awesome. The 720@50 only offers "wide", so how do you align the camera optimally to get the best view?

 

Also, how do you keep the same angle between rides, because you can't see where it's pointing unless you buy the rear screen thingy, and there aren't any guides on the device to say e.g. 30 degrees? Do you just learn after using it a lot?

[Mr SingleTrack]

Sorry, forgot to chat about the SD cards...

 

We use class 10 cards across the board, which are a requirement for the higher speed features of the camera - like the timelapse function at 0.5sec intervals.

 

A Class 6 card from a reputable brand [like Lexar or Sandisk] will go further than a 'no name brand' class 10 card.... so be careful what you buy. While slow cards [class 2 & some 4's] may drop frames, it's more likely to corrupt your file altogether.

 

In some cases, people mistake intense shake & jittery image as dropped frames instead of looking at frame rate and the placement of the camera.

thx for the feedback

[GoPro SA]

I’ve heard there is a product that you can apply (spray) to the lens (the cover, not the camera lens itself) that keeps the lens clean (e.g. water just run off it so you don’t get blurred videos after just 1 water crossing etc). Has anyone tried this and does it actually work?

 

 

Yip. There's a product from Wynn's called "C-Thru". It comes in a blue bottle and is available at most Pick n Pays, hardware & motor outlets... look in the car care section. It's the same stuff they use on car windscreens, motorbike visors, etc

[rouxtjie]

thx for the feedback

thanks for the feedback GoProSA, got my hero2 on Monday and its a fantastic little unit.

 

I see you recommend WMM for software, got that on my machine BUT it doesnt accept .mp4 files so I got formatfactory converter, did you guys do the same or is there a special shortcut that will enable WMM to edit .mp4 files?

[GoPro SA]

Awesome. The 720@50 only offers "wide", so how do you align the camera optimally to get the best view?

 

Also, how do you keep the same angle between rides, because you can't see where it's pointing unless you buy the rear screen thingy, and there aren't any guides on the device to say e.g. 30 degrees? Do you just learn after using it a lot?

 

Correct, 720 @ 50fps is 170 degrees, ensuring you capture everything. It's a little trial & error, but you quickly get used to what works best. Remember that a 'variable or dynamic placement' like a Chesty or helmet is more difficult to perfect... while a handlebar / frame mounting is a 'constant' so you have more chance of getting it exactly how you want it.

 

We have seen some guys draw lines on the housing as an aid...

[Mr SingleTrack]

Yip. There's a product from Wynn's called "C-Thru". It comes in a blue bottle and is available at most Pick n Pays, hardware & motor outlets... look in the car care section. It's the same stuff they use on car windscreens, motorbike visors, etc

great, thx i will give it a go

[GoPro SA]

thanks for the feedback GoProSA, got my hero2 on Monday and its a fantastic little unit.

 

I see you recommend WMM for software, got that on my machine BUT it doesnt accept .mp4 files so I got formatfactory converter, did you guys do the same or is there a special shortcut that will enable WMM to edit .mp4 files?

 

Thanks, glad you like it. Never had an issue with WMM & our files. That is strange! Have you done your Windows service packs / updates?

[covie]

i have stuff i use to stop my goggles from fogging up when i go spearfishing, I use that on the inside of the casing, for when i use the waterproof housing. And it works to repel water of the outside too, but mud is mud and when it falls it shall stick.

[rouxtjie]

Thanks, glad you like it. Never had an issue with WMM & our files. That is strange! Have you done your Windows service packs / updates?

Yip, point blank refuses to import .mp4 files but found a workaround. maybe I have an older version of WMM...anyway shot for the info

[covie]

Correct, 720 @ 50fps is 170 degrees, ensuring you capture everything. It's a little trial & error, but you quickly get used to what works best. Remember that a 'variable or dynamic placement' like a Chesty or helmet is more difficult to perfect... while a handlebar / frame mounting is a 'constant' so you have more chance of getting it exactly how you want it.

 

We have seen some guys draw lines on the housing as an aid...

 

I have two mounts and i simply leave them on the bike, to cumbersome to remove them anyway, the handlebar mount I actually have in a forwards position, so that the camera is level with my stem, that way i dont have this thing sitting upright on my handlebar, And when the camera is off you dont even notice the bracket. The other one is on my seatpost, once again too much effort to try and remount camera's on trail.

[Zook]

Have y'all noticed a clicking or knocking sound when playing back? The door rubber seems to push quite hard against the unit so I'd imagine it's reasonably solidly supported, but it still sounds like its knocking around a bit. If so, how have you reduced that?

 

Edit: it seems to be in the unit itself. I took it out of the casing now, shook it and there's an audible noise. I did some searches and you can find reports of it online, although no idea whether it's all of them or just some.

Edited May 2, 2012 by Zook