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Chain breaker....why, how and what now?


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When removing a link to shorten it or to push in a new joining pin, the precision of the chainbreaking tool is a major factor. It is easy to bend a side plate or push the pin too far/not enough. That joint will always be weaker. I far prefer using masterlinks/quicklinks.

My old professional Shimano chain breaker is of superb quality but was made for 8 spd chains. It works ok on 9spd but I have had several issues joining 10spd chains with it. 10spd is narrower and the tool does not hold the side plate on the far side properly. So maybe the tool used to link that chain is also part of the problem.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

The pin inside a 10spd is also thinker than a 9spd ( or 8spd).


I stopped to help a guy fix his 10 SPD chain and bent my beloved chain tool trying to put the pin through.

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@ Koei- Thanks for the response and info regarding 10s vs 11s chain widths. I bought a SRAM 11s quicklink (LBS didnt have  KMC) after the ride on Saturday and will put that one on.


Glad I dont need to replace the chain:)

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The other day my friend broke his chain because he bumped the FD to the granny before he set off. Obviously too much sideway force on the chain.

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