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Ultimate bike trailer advice needed


emme

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Hi

 

I am going to be in the market soon to purchase a versatile bike trailer.I have an oldschool Vw Combi Microbus and can transport 6-8 cyclists(read MTB)in comfort ,but luggage and bikes become a problem.

 

I have seen some nice custom made bikeracks on Venter type trailers (6 or 7foot?4wheel trailer?large trailer wheels?nose cone or not?)

 

It would be nice to open the trailer lid to access baggage without too much of a problem.I also assume 6 MTB bikes max on a Venter type trailer is realistic?

 

As MTB takes you offroad I assume the bigger wheel trailer is the way to go which makes a 4 wheel trailer unnecessary.

 

Any idea of cost??..

 

Any advice will be appreciated!

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Pyga Industries have made up a really neat bike trailer with Thule ProRides. Not for sale, just to transport their bikes. It's a basic sturdy frame structure with the ProRides running 'across' the trailer (not length ways down the trailer). This seems to fit more bikes.

 

This is all the trailer carries with no luggage area but I'm sure the frame structure can be adapted to sit on top of a trailer lid.

 

Really neat, sturdy and easy to load.

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I have checked the Thule website and they do not seem to have custom made racks for trailers?

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Fitting standard roof racks on a standard road Venter type trailer works well and is the cheapest way to go. But you have to make sure you can get inside the trailer without removing the bikes. Lifting a heavy lid, even with strong gas struts helping, is often difficult and not practical. Road trailers don't generally have side access doors. The tailgate of some trailers cannot open unless you open the lid first, check that. Getting into the trailer through the tailgate is also a pain.

 

Many off road type trailers have side access doors which work very well. They are much more expensive than road trailers but they can go anywhere and the bikes are higher off the ground and more out of the dust and mud. Standard roof racks and bike mounts will also work.

 

Make sure you tie the bikes with straps when travelling on bad roads. No racks are designed to keep bikes secure enough for the side to side movement that results from a trailer going over rough ground. Put big mudflaps on your car and/or a net to protect the bikes from flying stones when doing gravel roads at speed or you will get stone chips on your most precious bike.

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I have checked the Thule website and they do not seem to have custom made racks for trailers?

The frame work of the trailer is customer made to fit the racks......
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option 1. buy any sturdy trailer. Not all are created equal. then have a roof rack type frame made for the lid, ensure the lid is strong enough for this rack, then bolt on you're bike rack of choice. Holdfast, Thule and Strides all work. As DJR said, remember the straps.

Option 2. Go to a trailer manufacturer, tell him what you want, have him design something (most likely this will be a box trailer of sorts with a sturdy roof and nifty side doors.

 

Remember, if you have a normal car licence, your trailer with cargo may not exceed 750kg, so check what the tarre weight is of whatever trailer you choose and then load accordingly.

Edited by PhilipV
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I have had good service with the Geoff trailer rack, 4 bikes. There is a 5 bike version.I have seen guys make there own using the holdfast individual clamps, but not sure how sturdy they are.

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Dont load a normal trailer with too many bikes on the roof. It becomes a mission too open the lid especially if a wind is blowing. Nose cone is nice to access stuff like pumps and shoes at races. I am thinking of building a flatbed type trailer with a nose cone. Some jetski trailer look like that. Maybe a deep base that can take suitcases or duffelbags (flat objects). NB: make sure you cater for QR as well as through axles.

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.....Any comments on the setup?

 

Things to check out when inspecting a 2nd hand trailer:

 

1. Like Talus said, the nosecone is very handy, especially if the lid is difficult to open with many heavy bikes on (I suspect this one will be)

2. You can improve the opening of the lid by putting 2 stronger gas struts in to aid lifting and slow down closing. Couple of hundred each?

3. Check if the inside of the lid and especially where the racks are mounted is reinforced. These lids are sometimes a bit wobbly without reinforcement. Budget to reinforce if needed, especially if you are going to use it often and on rough (SA) roads. Pop rivets are not good enough for rack mountings, bolts are essential.

4. Check the latches that keep the lid closed. They must be real sturdy. Couple of hundred to replace?

5. You most likely won't be able to get into the trailer from the tailgate. I think it is one of those that can only open when the lid is open. Check that. Not a deal breaker, just know you'll have to live with it.

6. Check that electrical connections work, tail light lenses clear and not broken. Not expensive to replace lenses but auto electricians labour could be.

7. Check that jockey wheel is good

8. Check wheel bearings. Grab wheel at top and push and pull. There must be no play (just like with a bike). Bearings are not expensive to replace.

9. Check underside for rust. They are made of steel. Structural rust is expensive to fix. Painting new black stone chip protector is cheap.

10. Check tow hitch coupling for function and secureness of high tensile bolts holding it.

 

Those Venter road trailers are good and dependable and will do 98% of all you ask. They also have a very good back up and you will be able to find any missing / broken parts without problems.

 

If you plan to do things like Baviaans Kloof or the Richtersveld, perhaps the rougher parts of Namibia or overland Africa, then a proper 4x4 trailer is justified. They are substantially heavier than road trailers, and weight is the BIG enemy, so think about your towing vehicle also.

 

(My 2c worth of rambling)

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Personally, given the price of new trailers currently as well as the price of the prorides, I'd draw up a plan for a trailer (simple box frame with a nose cone) and take it to a fabricator to weld up, using a scrapped trailer's axle or a simple transaxle. Axle 50% of the way along the trailers bed so it's easy to manoeuvre, and put some drawers in so you can have a stowage area under the bike bed. Clad the thing in some mild or galvanised steel, except for the top which would be clad in sealed meranti.

 

It'll be cheaper than a 2nd hand trailer and probably more sturdy.

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