Formula RX brake pads too thick? Pushing against rotor...

[Gregstah]

Hi

My 2 cents worth, from working on a few sets of Formula.

Push the pistons back and see if they line up flush with the housing, easily.

If not, then bleed the brakes a little,

If they do go back to flush easily, bleeding will not help too much and brakes will get soft as the pads wear. Rather sand them down.

You dont need a bleed kit unless you replacing the fluid or have air trapped inside (not sure if everyone will agree with me here)

Pull the brake lever, then slowly loosen the bottom bleed nipple, just enough to let a little fluid escape and re tighten before releasing the bake lever, Dont open the screw too much or release the lever before tightening, else you will let air in and then will need a bleed kit. The trick is to do it slowly and repeat the process as needed.

Make sure you have a cloth to wide away any fliud

 

Whatsup thank you this makes the most sense.

 

For now I've mixed and matched one of the better old ones (not too worn at all but enough to fit) with the a new one - The reason for this instead of releasing bleed fluid... because I don't have a bleed kit. This means that if I cock it up I'm going to be stuck

 

One Tokay ride to level 5 yesterday and all felt dandy.

 

I'm sure it is too much fluid because the pistons won't go flush even when hitting them with hammer (just kidding) I used a vice... still kidding...

 

I have a bleed kit on order :-) Then I'll do it properly.

 

Replaced back pads without any problem.

 

Thanks for all the input! Your help much appreciated!

 

G

[Wyatt Earp]

Whatsup thank you this makes the most sense.

 

For now I've mixed and matched one of the better old ones (not too worn at all but enough to fit) with the a new one - The reason for this instead of releasing bleed fluid... because I don't have a bleed kit. This means that if I cock it up I'm going to be stuck

 

One Tokay ride to level 5 yesterday and all felt dandy.

 

I'm sure it is too much fluid because the pistons won't go flush even when hitting them with hammer (just kidding) I used a vice... still kidding...

 

I have a bleed kit on order :-) Then I'll do it properly.

 

Replaced back pads without any problem.

 

Thanks for all the input! Your help much appreciated!

 

G

 

I am still convinced you have air trapped behind the pistons.

(I had to google that) I am still in a learning phase.

[Gregstah]

It's rather common issue on Formula brakes. Check that the pistons are not sticky first, by taking out the pads, slowly pulling the brake lever and letting them come out. Might need to lube pistons. Secondly, you have to take your time to get calipers aligned perfectly.

 

I'm pretty sure you must be joking here?

 

Pistons lube themselves with the brakefluid that powers them. Putting any lube anywhere near a piston would be a very bad idea as it would contaminate the brake pad rendering it useless.

 

G

[Wyatt Earp]

I'm pretty sure you must be joking here?

 

Pistons lube themselves with the brakefluid that powers them. Putting any lube anywhere near a piston would be a very bad idea as it would contaminate the brake pad rendering it useless.

 

G

 

He is not joking, but forgot to mention the entire process involved, where you have to blow the pistons out, clean the calliper and then lube before you reassemble.

Yes ,the fluid does lube to an extent ,but not as well as what you would get on a brake using mineral oil.

[Gregstah]

I am still convinced you have air trapped behind the pistons.

(I had to google that) I am still in a learning phase.

 

I'm pretty sure it's not air, the brakes don't feel spongy at all. A bleed done on worn breaks would pretty much mean the reservoir being over filled and I'm quite convinced that's the cause.

 

G

[Gregstah]

He is not joking, but forgot to mention the entire process involved, where you have to blow the pistons out, clean the calliper and then lube before you reassemble.

Yes ,the fluid does lube to an extent ,but not as well as what you would get on a brake using mineral oil.

 

Okay from that angle, it makes sense :-)

[Wyatt Earp]

I'm pretty sure it's not air, the brakes don't feel spongy at all. A bleed done on worn breaks would pretty much mean the reservoir being over filled and I'm quite convinced that's the cause.

 

G

 

They don't need to feel spongy to have air trapped, often also people think they are letting excess guild out when they open they system and push the pistons back and see some fluid come out, it's air pushing fluid and if you have a hose on their you should see the bubble or bubbles.

[droo]

They don't need to feel spongy to have air trapped, often also people think they are letting excess guild out when they open they system and push the pistons back and see some fluid come out, it's air pushing fluid and if you have a hose on their you should see the bubble or bubbles.

 

Yep. If there's a bubble in the reservoir you won't feel it at the lever. It will make your pads rub on a hot day or after a long descent though, so bleed it anyway.

 

Oh, and also when replacing pads it'll make the pistons pop back out after you reset them. Which is what I'm willing to bet is happening to the OP's brakes.

 

OP, you're not far from me - bring them in tomorrow or Saturday and I'll show you how it's done.

[Wyatt Earp]

Yep. If there's a bubble in the reservoir you won't feel it at the lever. It will make your pads rub on a hot day or after a long descent though, so bleed it anyway.

 

Oh, and also when replacing pads it'll make the pistons pop back out after you reset them. Which is what I'm willing to bet is happening to the OP's brakes.

 

OP, you're not far from me - bring them in tomorrow or Saturday and I'll show you how it's done.

 

Best line test, I would urge the OP to do this.

All this boer-maak-a-plan stuff is great ,but let's leave McGyver as a TV star.

[Eder]

You solved my problem with Formula The One. The amount of oil in the system calibrated directly in the pistons is very helpful.

 

Hi
My 2 cents worth, from working on a few sets of Formula.
Push the pistons back and see if they line up flush with the housing, easily.
If not, then bleed the brakes a little,
If they do go back to flush easily, bleeding will not help too much and brakes will get soft as the pads wear. Rather sand them down.
You dont need a bleed kit unless you replacing the fluid or have air trapped inside (not sure if everyone will agree with me here)
Pull the brake lever, then slowly loosen the bottom bleed nipple, just enough to let a little fluid escape and re tighten before releasing the bake lever, Dont open the screw too much or release the lever before tightening, else you will let air in and then will need a bleed kit. The trick is to do it slowly and repeat the process as needed.
Make sure you have a cloth to wide away any fliud

[Swany05]

Holy thread resurrection, at least the search function works. glad you came right with the help of bike hub 

[Martin PJ]

I used to get this problem with my Formula Ones if I bled the brakes with the pads slightly worn. As many have indicated, let out a few drops until you are happy.