Jump to content

SLX M665 brakes


Swany05

Recommended Posts

Are these brakes known for taking in air? 

 

On two occasions i have had the upside down for no longer than a few minutes and when i get the bike back on its wheels either the front or the back pulls all the way to the bar. Id pump it a few times to get it right then at some point along the route (knowing my luck in a technical downhill section) they would be pap again. 

 

The only way i have been able to remedy the issue is to bleed again not a train smash but i would like to solve the original problem first.

 

my bleed process is as follows 

 

1. Master cylinder level with the ground, open the cap to expose the fluid

2. attach a small tube and a 7 spanner to the bleed nipple (The tube runs into an old empty brake fluid bottle)

3. top up mineral oil 

4. open the bleed nipple slightly and squeeze the brake close the nipple and let go of the brake.

5. repeat until no bubbles come through the hose and top up as needed before it sucks in air.

 

I'm sure there is an easier way and open to suggestions if it is incorrect 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

happened to me with xt brakes.

 

seemed that there was an air pocket in the reservoir.

 

I did the same process but second lastly i closed the bleed nipple and pulled the lever a few times , there were some bubbles that were purged from the reservoir into the cup.

 

I then repeated your step 4. 

 

its been good ever since.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are these brakes known for taking in air?

 

On two occasions i have had the upside down for no longer than a few minutes and when i get the bike back on its wheels either the front or the back pulls all the way to the bar. Id pump it a few times to get it right then at some point along the route (knowing my luck in a technical downhill section) they would be pap again.

 

The only way i have been able to remedy the issue is to bleed again not a train smash but i would like to solve the original problem first.

 

my bleed process is as follows

 

1. Master cylinder level with the ground, open the cap to expose the fluid

2. attach a small tube and a 7 spanner to the bleed nipple (The tube runs into an old empty brake fluid bottle)

3. top up mineral oil

4. open the bleed nipple slightly and squeeze the brake close the nipple and let go of the brake.

5. repeat until no bubbles come through the hose and top up as needed before it sucks in air.

 

I'm sure there is an easier way and open to suggestions if it is incorrect

Air in the reservoir above the master cylinder floats up into the system when you turn the bike upside down.

 

Ensure top of reservoir is level with ground. After bleeding and your step 5, fill the reservoir to overflowing. Then carefully lower the flexible rubber diaphragm on to displace air then put the lid/cap on and screw down. Lots of rag or paper towel to mop spillage.

 

This way you displace air from the expansion space and there is only brake oil under the diaphragm when you bolt it up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

See this link for the process. http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/how-to-bleed-new-shimano-brakes/

 

When I bleed Deore or XT brakes, I insert a bleeding cup in the master cylinder and a syringe with hose filled with mineral oil onto the calliper’s bleeding nipple. 

 

Open the bleeding nipple and then push the mineral oil (syringe) form the calliper up to the master cylinder until the bleeding cup is filled. 

 

During this process I softly tap the calliper, brake hose and master cylinder to ensure that any air trapped goes up and out of the bleeding cup. 

 

Reverse the process by pulling the mineral oil back into the syringe and then repeat until no air bubbles are visible.

 

Then close the bleeding nipple, push and keep the brake lever in, use elastics if you are by yourself and open and close the bleeding nipple a few times.

 

After this the job is done , close the bleeding nipple and the replace the screw and O ring in the master cylinder.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

See this link for the process. http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/how-to-bleed-new-shimano-brakes/

 

When I bleed Deore or XT brakes, I insert a bleeding cup in the master cylinder and a syringe with hose filled with mineral oil onto the calliper’s bleeding nipple.

 

Open the bleeding nipple and then push the mineral oil (syringe) form the calliper up to the master cylinder until the bleeding cup is filled.

 

During this process I softly tap the calliper, brake hose and master cylinder to ensure that any air trapped goes up and out of the bleeding cup.

 

Reverse the process by pulling the mineral oil back into the syringe and then repeat until no air bubbles are visible.

 

Then close the bleeding nipple, push and keep the brake lever in, use elastics if you are by yourself and open and close the bleeding nipple a few times.

 

After this the job is done , close the bleeding nipple and the replace the screw and O ring in the master cylinder.

Eddie, the older XT and SLX like OP's M665 from a few years ago have a covered reservoir with no bleed port. You undo 2 screws to remove a lid and diaphragm/seal...then the reservoir is totally open.

 

Your process is correct for the newer type brakes where the top reservoir has a bleed port for attaching the funnel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout