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JXV

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  1. They really only need to change the 37t to a 39t or 40t. The gap from the current 37t to the next smaller cog is relatively minor. Not sure of the longevity or shift quality of the others - this Shimano 11-46 shifts better than any of the 9 and 10 spd stuff I had before. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  2. I have now been running the 11-46 for about 9 months with a 34t front ring on my 29er. The 46t is a good bailout gear and I can climb anything I would want to ride with it but the gap to the 37t is noticeable. I would prefer a smaller gap with a 39 or 40t instead of the 37. How it feels to me when climbing is that the 37t is a bit tough on steeper climbs and when you finally drop to the 46t it is easier but your speed drops off a lot. All your mates on 40t and 42t systems start pulling away unless you spin like hell. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  3. Your Deore levers and calipers have the same hydraulics as XT and SLX. Considering your weight and in this order: 1) Have your brakes checked out for air (bleed) and alignment so that you can be sure there are no issues. 2) increase your rotor size to 203 front and 180 rear. You'll also need to buy adapters to space the calipers out for this conversion. This will noticeably increase stopping power. If budget permits the Ice-tech rotors will increase it even more at speed when the brakes are hot. Sent from my SM-T815 using Tapatalk
  4. The plastic piece for tightening the retaining cap is meant to be tightened by hand only....max about 2Nm. It simply takes up longitudinal free play of the crank shaft in BB. You need to do this before tightening the crank arm clamp bolts. The clamp bolts compress the plastic retaining cap and fix it in place. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  5. Yup....not strictly galvanic but pool acid turns alu into hydrogen and a big sticky mess. Chlorine pretty much wrecks most metals except Ti Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  6. Its a galvanic reaction, not catalytic. Caused by dissimilar metals simultaneously in contact with each other and with a body electrolyte. One metal will usually be severely corroded while nothing happens to the other. Since it is conductive and can react, carbon fibre can act as a 'metal' for purposes of a galvanic couple. Batteries are probably the most ubiquitous examples of a galvanic couple in action. The term electrolyte means basically any liquid that can transport an electric current - so, water, sea water, vinegar, blood, battery acid etc are all potential electrolytes. The stronger the concentration of salts in the liquid, the more effective it is as an electrolyte. This is why sea water is more corrosive than freash water. There is a thing called the 'galvanic series' which is a list of galvanically active materials (nearly all metals) ranked in order of half-cell potential (reactivity). The further apart two materials are in this series, the more likely that the more reactive one will be corroded when it is used in simultaneous contact with the other and an electrolyte. So.....how to prevent or reduce galvanic corrosion? 1) break the electrical circuit - by insulating the two metals from one another with a non conductive material like plastic or by insulating one or both from contact with the electrolyte (e.g. paint). 2) remove electrolyte - keep the metals dry....always 3) if two metals will contact each other in a wet environment, choose metals that are close to each other in the galvanic series where possible ( eg copper and brass will do better than a combination of alu and stainless steel.) 4) Dilute the electrolyte with fresh water 5) coat parts in moisture repellent coatings such as grease, oil, paint. 6) use a sacrificial anode ( attach a body of much more reactive metal - it will corrode preferentially - common on ships and submerged metal structures) 7) use impressed current to hold the part needing protection at a lower voltage relative to others. ( pipelines and railways are often protected this way) Ok that's the lecture....now what can you do with your wheels.....? A) keep them away from sea water and sea spray B) dry immediately after washing and wash less frequently C) use brass nipples rather than alu. It's closer to carbon in the galvanic series. D) store indoors away from salty/ humid air Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  7. Yes correct....and you may not even need the freehub spacer because Hope made these freehubs in two lengths. 1x11 is more sensitive to chainline than your older 3x system but if adjustments are needed then a combination of freehub spacer, chainring spacers and BB spacers will give more than enough leeway to get it right. Your 68mm BB shell should normally have at least 1 BB spacer under the drive side so you can adjust 2.5mm either way by transferring spacers to/from the non-drive end. On the 11spd Shimano cassette the big cog is on a dished carrier and sits slightly inboard compared to the older 9 and 10 spd systems. The cassette stack's internal length on the freehub is also slightly shorter than 10spd. For these reasons you may need to use the freehub spacer. Hope says their Pro2 hubs are compatible with both 10 and 11spd Shimano MTB cassettes. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  8. That Shimano XT 1x11 upgrade kit is not entry level ..... it is def. superior to the SRAM NX options except that the 11-46 and 10-42 cassette options on the SRAM kit offer wider gear range than the Shimano 11-42 cassette. The 10-42 cassette would require you to purchase a new XD hub driver for your Hope hubs so it drives the cost up a lot. Shimano also now offers SLX 1x11 which should be less expensive. The chain offered with that XT kit is not the XT chain if that is an issue. I would go with the Shimano kit. Price is lowest I've seen since they came out. If you ride hilly terrain or you are not racing fit then consider upgrading the kit to the 11-46 cassette. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  9. Deore brakes are self adjusting as the pads wear. It is most likely that someone pulled the front brake while the wheel was out. Consequently the pads move in more than they should and don't return all the way. Before opening the brake hydraulics remove the wheel and pads and use some old pads with a piston spreader tool or a big screwdriver to push the pistons all the way back into the calipers. Then refit the pads and wheel and ride a few gentle circuits around the yard while activating the brake lever to reset the pads to correct clearance.. If this doesn't work then either there is air in the hydraulics or the brakes were overfilled during a previous bleed due to bleeding with worn pads/discs in situ instead of a bleed block that provides correct spacing. In both these cases you need to bleed the brake with correct procedure and tools. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  10. JXV

    Fork seal kits?

    Eish - sorry Bud. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  11. JXV

    Fork seal kits?

    Scratch on the stanchion makes a channel that allows oil out and dirt in. It will also wear the seal lips over time. If its a shallow scratch there are tricks you can pull like fill it with nail varnish and VERY gently remove the excess with a razor blade and 1000 grit or finer sand paper. Extreme care required to not make things worse if you do this. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  12. 1) the valve should not be tightened more than you can turn it by hand. That is why they provide a knurled ring instead of a hex nut. If that doesn't seal, something else is wrong. If you have tightened it more, e.g. using pliers, then it may akready have created distortion.2) if you see air bubbles leaking from the valve hole when submerged it does not mean the air is definitely leaking at the valve. It could leak elsewhere and then travel in the hollow section between rim bed and spoke bed and exit at the unsealed valve hole or any spoke holes...as you are seeing. I think perhaps your rim has a crack/ fault somewhere and this might be at the join if it is an alloy rim. Are the rims rated as tubeless compatible? Suggest you return them before you do any damage. Good luck Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  13. JXV

    Fork seal kits?

    The blue float fluid is a much thicker oil (approx 80 wt) than Gold which is 20wt. Rather stick with the blue stuff Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  14. it will cost more to eventually upgrade the fork (and you will) and some other components. Rather get the Comp Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  15. The small gears slip more easily than the big ones simply because fewer teeth on them. They also wear faster than bigger ones because your weight is distributed over fewer points of contact when you pedal hard on them. If the chain or teeth are worn, slippage happens easier and even more so if you fit new chain to worn cassette or vice versa. There are other issues can exacerbate chain slip... - chain wrap - make sure the B screw on RD is correctly set to give the correct clearance from cog to pulley wheel. This ensures the chain is wrapped around as many teeth as possible. - chainline. If the chainline is too far inboard at the front then the chain may contact the pick-up ramps on the next biggest cog and try to jump up. This can also happen if the shifter is too tight. Post a pic or two of your cassette so we can see the teeth. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  16. Soak your foam ring in the same oil as used for the lowers...it will all mix anyway if you use different oils. Stick to 10wt or heavier for lowers. 15wt or higher in a hot climate. If the oil is too viscous it causes drag, too thin and it won't lube nicely. I use Fox 20wt Gold here in SA and would fall back to a 10W30 semi synthetic motor oil if I had to. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  17. Back tyres usually wear more than fronts. Rider behaviour has a big influence. Rubber compounds too......sticky high grip tyres for downhilling should wear out much faster than a gravel grinder like Maxxis Crossmark. A 29er Spez Ground Control on the rear has given me about 4500km. It still has useable tread over the whole surface but traction has deteriorated a lot and it is basically done. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  18. You can use normal multigrade motor oil as splash lubrication in you fork lowers if you cannot find dedicated fork oils for this. Low viscosity multigrades like 10W30 will do nicely. For the damper oil you need a lower viscosity oil formulated with anti foaming properties. In MTB forks 2.5wt to 5wt is typical and you should be able to find motorbike fork oils in this range. These suspension oils are not the best lubricating oils as they are not really made for lubricating. So don't use a 2.5wt damper oil for splash lube in the lowers. It can work but engine oil will work bettet. For example Fox used to have separate green and red 10wt oils, one for damping and one for lubricating lowers. Now they have 20wt Gold for lowers which is even netter. Answering an earlier question the 'wt' and 'W' are practically comparable. Both refer to a nominal oil 'weight' which is a loose surrogate for the viscosity range. So-called multigrade oils are more tolerant of temperature change - they don't get as thick as a monograde oil in cold weather and retain their viscosity a little better in high temperatures. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  19. Tallboy pedal bob is not an issue if you buy a frame with the original oe shock and keep it properly maintained. My LTc came with a Fox Factory CTD shock. Works exactly as it says on the tin if you keep it serviced. Practically locked out in Climb mode but still compliant over harsh bumps. Don't forget it has VPP suspension links . Chain tension caused by pedalling works against suspension movement by tucking the lower link up against the bb. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  20. Even DT Swiss makes such adapters but DT Swiss spares are hideously expensive and difficult to find in SA. I wanted a 36t or 54t star ratchet to replace the 18t ratchet in my bombproof DT350 hubs. These faster ratchets are available us upgrade kits in Europe and fitted to a lot of the upmarket Spez hubs but you can't buy them here as parts, even from Spez. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  21. According to a few reviews the plus tyres are VERY pressure sensitive. Just 2psi can be the difference between bouncy and too soft. I have yet to try a set. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  22. Registered my LTc but I have to depressure the shock and cycle the suspension on the Hightower to get at the serial number ....what a dumb place to put it. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  23. Agree with lerouc, the difference in spec between the the carbon and alu big9 XT versions is significant. The carbon version has 2x11 XT drivetrain while the alu version has 3x10 XT. The Cannondale also has 3x10 but mostly Deore and only the rear derailer is XT. Deore is excellent robust stuff but not as light as the higher spec XT bits Brakes are M506 on all but the Meridas use centrelock discs. These are equally good but sometimes more difficult to find and maybe more pricey when the time comes to replace them. Check out the tyres too - the Cannondale is specced with quite thin racy tyres while the Merida wider slightly more versatile tyres on it. I am assuming you are looking at the alu spec Merida in which case the TK 30 gold fork is a step down the range from the Cannondale's Recon fork. In all other respects the Merida has better components. You should really ride both and go with the one that feels better to ride because both have decent reliable component sets. Just in case you were looking at the carbon Merida...it may not have attachment points for panniers whereas the alu bikes do. This is only an issue if you're considering touring.... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  24. 'There's no stock in the country' from a LBS salesperson nearly always means 'I couldn't be bothered to phone around or order one for you, why don't you rather make a choice from the stuff we have on display' Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  25. I find the 203 ice tec stiffer and less prone to warping than all others I have tried. Also quieter. Are you using metal or resin pads? Normally noise means the system is oscillating under load. This can be misaligned pads/rotors or flexing under load. Check the following - thru-axle properly tightened - wheel bearings not worn - disc bolts are correctly torqued and have thread-lock on them - pads are correctly aligned radially so the pad doesn't ride above or below the braking surface - pad surface exactly parallel with disc surface If the Aligators are working for you then enjoy... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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