VolkAdik Posted June 10, 2016 Share Hi guys, I have a 2011 Model Giant TCR Advanced 2 that has Shimano 105 5700 10 speed group, I am in the process of converting to 11 speed 5800, will it be necessary to remove the BB spacer on the drive side since i simply cannot get the front deraileur to shift over enough to get the the big blade. Thank you in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cappi Posted June 10, 2016 Share hi, I did the same conversion on a Scott tho, didnt have to remove any spacers. Did u try an adjust the limit screws? is the cable tension correct when in the small blade? no play in cable? VolkAdik 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolkAdik Posted June 10, 2016 Share Yep, turned the limit screw almost all the way out, the arm moves over but not enough under the lever shift. Will there be any ill effect with removing the spacer? Its quite narrow? The chain rings dont touch the chainstay when its removed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falco Posted June 10, 2016 Share I've done several conversions from 5700 to 5800, as well as other 10 to 11 speed upgrades, it's never been necessary to change spacers on the BB. It's difficult to say what the problem is without seeing it, but I would suggest that your shift cable is possibly too loose, which results in the movement of the derailleur being less than required. VolkAdik 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted June 10, 2016 Share Is it safe to assume you are installing the complete 5800 groupset including it's crank, front derailleur and BB - not keeping anything from the old one? VolkAdik 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomo Posted June 10, 2016 Share Agree with what's been said already, and you should be able to get the fd working without addressing spacers.However bb spacers can cause issues.In my case it caused issues with setting the rd - gears would be smooth on one front blade but then jump when shifted to the other.The problem still hasn't been sorted but I won't be riding for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolkAdik Posted June 10, 2016 Share Is it safe to assume you are installing the complete 5800 groupset including it's crank, front derailleur and BB - not keeping anything from the old one?Yep everything bar the BB. So shifters, cables and housings, cassette, chain, both deraileurs and calipers. Okay my mechanic claims to have sorted it with an inline barrel adjuster. But he still removed the spacer so will test it this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted June 10, 2016 Share Yep everything bar the BB. So shifters, cables and housings, cassette, chain, both deraileurs and calipers. Okay my mechanic claims to have sorted it with an inline barrel adjuster. But he still removed the spacer so will test it this weekend. You don't mention the crank itself ... is it your old one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolkAdik Posted June 10, 2016 Share You don't mention the crank itself ... is it your old one? its the 5800 50/34 crank sorry, old one was Ultegra Edited June 10, 2016 by VolkAdik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotSoBigBen Posted June 10, 2016 Share its the 5800 50/34 crank sorry OK cool, here's hoping your mechanic has it sorted! VolkAdik 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Marshall Posted June 10, 2016 Share The 11 speed FD is a very different animal to all previous Shimano FDs. Firstly you get a plastic tool to measure the angle of your cable to the FD to determine which way to rotate the small pin below the cable clamp bolt. The leverage on the arm of the FD is so small at the beginning of the pull that this is critical. Next you have to pull the cable extremely tight. (Like with someone holding the bike and you pulling with pliers). To check that the cable is tight set the shifter in the small blade position and click to the first trim position. The FD should move slightly. (11 spd has two trim stops - one going up and one coming down). I have yet to see one come through my workshop with this first trim working. Lastly the cable needs to be clamped tight (7 nm). This ensures that you damage the cable when making later adjustments so have a spare cable handy. You will need it. Another gripe that I have is that because of the tension being so high braze on FD's tend to move - and you are back to square one. VolkAdik 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolkAdik Posted June 10, 2016 Share The 11 speed FD is a very different animal to all previous Shimano FDs. Firstly you get a plastic tool to measure the angle of your cable to the FD to determine which way to rotate the small pin below the cable clamp bolt. The leverage on the arm of the FD is so small at the beginning of the pull that this is critical. Next you have to pull the cable extremely tight. (Like with someone holding the bike and you pulling with pliers). To check that the cable is tight set the shifter in the small blade position and click to the first trim position. The FD should move slightly. (11 spd has two trim stops - one going up and one coming down). I have yet to see one come through my workshop with this first trim working. Lastly the cable needs to be clamped tight (7 nm). This ensures that you damage the cable when making later adjustments so have a spare cable handy. You will need it. Another gripe that I have is that because of the tension being so high braze on FD's tend to move - and you are back to square one.Oh geez, but thanks for the information. Im hoping it works well whilst riding. Will give it a spin around the block to see how it behaves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Marshall Posted June 10, 2016 Share Oh! I forgot to mention. The cable clamp bolt now takes a 4mm rather than a 5mm hex key. This ensures that after all the messing around and 7nm as above the super light head is now stripped. No problem, replace it with one from an old mech. WRONG! The new bolt is specially machined and is longer than the older version. Also not available separately as a spare part. Do I sound like a fan? Hope that you come right. If not give your mechanic a copy of the above and a stiff dop! VolkAdik 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eon du Plessis Posted June 10, 2016 Share Oh! I forgot to mention. The cable clamp bolt now takes a 4mm rather than a 5mm hex key. This ensures that after all the messing around and 7nm as above the super light head is now stripped. No problem, replace it with one from an old mech. WRONG! The new bolt is specially machined and is longer than the older version. Also not available separately as a spare part. Do I sound like a fan? Hope that you come right. If not give your mechanic a copy of the above and a stiff dop!Speaking of which, mine needs an adjustment again. (I kid, I kid!) The 11 speed really is a finicky thing though. VolkAdik 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolkAdik Posted June 13, 2016 Share Well feedback now, It works well the top trim is a little off but all seems fine otherwise, the spacer is out, my boet has the same TCR with Sram force 10speed and he too has no spacer on drive side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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