How long does a cycling pant last?

[Butterbean]

Oh, and on softners: its a finishing product that just adds a waxy layer to your clothes. Add too much, and you can make a cotton towel waterproof. They it with your kids for a fun science experiment. So they will definitely screw with the breathability, moisture absorption properties of your clothing and should go nowhere near cycle kit.

[SuperDooperSnooper]

Definitely avoid softeners as well as the 2-in-1 products.

 

Maybe I am lucky, but all my bibs have lasted 3-4 years on average with regular wear and cold/short wash with regular washing powder. Washed inside out and never dried in the direct sun.

 

On occasion have used Protect Pre-soak for activewear to take the pong out.

[Ham]

Assos all the way. Mine are now 5 years old.

[fritserasmus]

Attempt #3: 20c/km

 

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R700 / 14,000 = R0. 05

= 5c per km

 

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[brucem76]

R700 / 14,000 = R0. 05

= 5c per km

 

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There are 4 pairs of pants being rotated - so R700 x 4 = R2,800 / 14,000 = R0.20 per km

 

 

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[fritserasmus]

There are 4 pairs of pants being rotated - so R700 x 4 = R2,800 / 14,000 = R0.20 per km

 

 

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Oops, missed the "4 pants"

 

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[scotty]

I have a range of pants and bibs, Craft, Santini, Assos and a few Anatomics. Value for money I find the Anatomics the best, the low end are ideal for home spinning while the upper end last long and I find as comfortable as the others on 100km plus rides. 

 

When it comes to washing, my machine has a sports function which i use using cold water. 

[Patchelicious]

For those wondering about powders with no enzymes, you can always check the ingredients list. Problem is, almost all the machine ones have in, in fact they almost all have enzymes nowadays. Enzymes are activated and work brilliantly to digest the fats and grease in your clothes. Great on cotton, but they destroy lycra.

 

I use plain old sunlight hand washing powder. The yellow or pink bags? A little goes quite a long way and they don't destroy clothing. Omo, maq, surf, keep those away from your cycle kit. Our house actually has two powders at all times, the non enzymatic one for my stuff,and the enzymatic one for normal clothing.

 

It might sound pedantic to some, unnecessary to others, but considering that you're wearing close to 10k on your body if you spend without thrift on the bike, it's worth it to take care of it. After all, you can't say it's logical to clean and lube your chain every ride to ensure longevity, but then trash your clothes.

 

Regarding machine washing, it certainly isn't terrible. But there are some considerations to watch out for, which is why manufacturers ask you to avoid it:

 

Remember first that the machine achieves mechanical action in the cleaning process by the action of clothing in the wash wheel bashing and rubbing against each other.

 

So, mixing fabric types like denim, polyester, and cotton mixes in the same wash will lead to all the fabrics abraiding each other. This causes piling. You know, those little tiny balls of fabric that collect on your clothes? This piling. Secondly, items with zippers, and velcro, will definitely damage other clothing in the machine. So be careful with those. If you chuck your gloves in too, make sure the straps are fastened, not loose.

 

The other major issue is stretching. Front loaders are less prone to this, but top loaders are terrible. With their poor design, clothing gets tangled and bunched up, and they will stretch a garment out like crazy. That's why assos used to give you a little wash baggie. It's not for anything other than stretch prevention. Spin cycles can have a slight stretch effect but not much. Again, top loaders suck.

 

Take care of those points and you can quite happily machine wash your clothing. I don't risk it, but each to his own!

Will you marry me?

[coppi]

Until someone in your cycling group tells you that they are see through [emoji4]

 

 

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