Bateleur1 Posted October 9, 2017 Posted October 9, 2017 Last week on my commute to work my the shifting cable for my RD snapped off in the STI. Did not think of it to be a problem so just bought a new cable the next day and yesterday thought to quickly replace the cable just to realise but the cable does not want to feed throught the STI as easily as it should. Did some research on the net and it came out that I need to switch the STI into the lowest gear so that the cable can feed through and the beaded end can hook. This is where I realise I have a problem. It seems like the STI can'T switch down to the loweste gear. Not sure if it actually needs a bit of tension to achieve it. I also suspect but can't confirm at the moment that the beaded end of the old cable might still be somewhere in there. Any tips or advice would be appreciated. Otherwise it would be a 150€ to replace the STI levers.
dirtypot Posted October 9, 2017 Posted October 9, 2017 I've had the same issue. It just takes time and a small pair of needle nose pliers and most importantly, patience. You can get the little end out, but it will try to be as stubborn as possible. Good luck!
Bateleur1 Posted October 9, 2017 Author Posted October 9, 2017 Ok so the fact that it is not currently shifting down exept for one gear is ... normal? Propably that small piece causing the shifting problem?
Wannabe Posted October 9, 2017 Posted October 9, 2017 L, have you looked at what google / youtube says on this subject? Can you remove the Top Cap to see what is going on inside the shifter?
dirtypot Posted October 9, 2017 Posted October 9, 2017 Ok so the fact that it is not currently shifting down exept for one gear is ... normal? Propably that small piece causing the shifting problem? It can happen like that. Just makes the job more "interesting"
Wannabe Posted October 9, 2017 Posted October 9, 2017 http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.imdserve.com/images/bikes-and-gear/components/derailler-or-mech---rear/1274793895896-16l6r5lxn99o5-1920-1080.jpg
Bateleur1 Posted October 9, 2017 Author Posted October 9, 2017 L, have you looked at what google / youtube says on this subject? Can you remove the Top Cap to see what is going on inside the shifter? I will be pulling the whole thing off the handlebar tonight and go work in the house on it. Then I do not have to deal with a garage/cellar light that switches off every couple of minute having doing a dance to get it back up again.
Iron Posted October 9, 2017 Posted October 9, 2017 if it a 5800 series ( 11sp ) you can remove the hood and at the bottom there is a small star screw that can be removed and you will gain access to the bottom half of the inside of the mech.PART 11 IN THE IMAGE this allow you to easily remove any broken peace of cable and then you can install your new one . the sti does need to be in the highest gear to fit the new cable .ST_5800_3711.pdf
Bateleur1 Posted October 9, 2017 Author Posted October 9, 2017 if it a 5800 series ( 11sp ) you can remove the hood and at the bottom there is a small star screw that can be removed and you will gain access to the bottom half of the inside of the mech.PART 11 IN THE IMAGE this allow you to easily remove any broken peace of cable and then you can install your new one . the sti does need to be in the highest gear to fit the new cable . This is a 10 speed, But thanks you gave me an idea by checking for the technical drawings on the Shimano website. Looks very similar on the 11 Spd.
Weimaraner1 Posted October 9, 2017 Posted October 9, 2017 5800 is 11spd. The question is - why did the cable break initially? The new type shifters allow for cable routing along the handlebars and there is a few "kinks" or turns in the cable before it eventually gets to the tubes. The design of the shifter and routing places a lot of strain on the cable especially on the first cable kink inside the shifter. This is where it breaks, I have been there. The cable starts fraying and eventually it breaks. The trick is to try and get all the broken off pieces out of the shifter, it takes patience and small needle nose pliers. it is good practice to replace at least the inner gear cables once a year or twice if you are really worried about them breaking. If you cannot get all the pieces out then you will maybe have to take the shifter apart. It also takes patience to route the cable back again as it sits at an angle if I remember correctly. Hope you can sort it.
Bateleur1 Posted October 9, 2017 Author Posted October 9, 2017 5800 is 11spd. The question is - why did the cable break initially? The new type shifters allow for cable routing along the handlebars and there is a few "kinks" or turns in the cable before it eventually gets to the tubes. The design of the shifter and routing places a lot of strain on the cable especially on the first cable kink inside the shifter. This is where it breaks, I have been there. The cable starts fraying and eventually it breaks. The trick is to try and get all the broken off pieces out of the shifter, it takes patience and small needle nose pliers. it is good practice to replace at least the inner gear cables once a year or twice if you are really worried about them breaking. If you cannot get all the pieces out then you will maybe have to take the shifter apart. It also takes patience to route the cable back again as it sits at an angle if I remember correctly. Hope you can sort it. I never really paid too much attention to the intervals at which I replaced cables. Only since I started servicing my bikes myself (after moving to Germany). I gave the road bike a full service in the beginning of the year in winter and replaced all the cables and linings. The plan was to do it again this winter. I most propably at the most only have another two months left of road cycling (which could be about 1000 - 1400km at the most). These cables already did about 5000 km. As you say, why did the cable break? If anything I would have thought that the FD would have had a bigger chance as I had a problem on the FD earlier in the year that made it very stiff to change gears that could have caused quite a bit of strain on the cable. But I have not had any problems on the RD this year. In general I found that since I serviced my bikes myself I have had better and smoother gear changes than when I used the LBS in SA.
Weimaraner1 Posted October 9, 2017 Posted October 9, 2017 I never really paid too much attention to the intervals at which I replaced cables. Only since I started servicing my bikes myself (after moving to Germany). I gave the road bike a full service in the beginning of the year in winter and replaced all the cables and linings. The plan was to do it again this winter. I most propably at the most only have another two months left of road cycling (which could be about 1000 - 1400km at the most). These cables already did about 5000 km. As you say, why did the cable break? If anything I would have thought that the FD would have had a bigger chance as I had a problem on the FD earlier in the year that made it very stiff to change gears that could have caused quite a bit of strain on the cable. But I have not had any problems on the RD this year. In general I found that since I serviced my bikes myself I have had better and smoother gear changes than when I used the LBS in SA.I also had a RD cable that broke inside the shiter (DA9000) during a race....a friend of mine also had the same problem with a 10spd Ultegra (6700 I think) also the RD.
Wannabe Posted October 18, 2017 Posted October 18, 2017 Did you manage to sort your problem out, Birdman?
Bateleur1 Posted October 18, 2017 Author Posted October 18, 2017 Did you manage to sort your problem out, Birdman? Yip thank you. Was easiest at the end to simply take off the STI completely and as mentioned above remove the one little cover plate and managed to remove the left over bit of the STI cable. Put the new cable in and applying a little bit of pressure I could down shift to the right position and then insert the cable correctly. Thanks for all the advice.
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