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Crank arm getting loose


Benja

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Posted

I'm intrigued and curious. How can stopping a bolt coming loose mask long term damage?

If it's one of the others, the preload is done with a wave washr or not at all. If the installation spacing is incorrect, you could have play, which will cause damage and also cause the crank arm to work itself loose.

 

So, loctite may keep everything in place, but if it's not fitting snug as a bug in a rug the symptoms won't be visible until the Bearings/thread/spindle whatever starts to wear from lateral play.

 

If torqued correctly the bolt shouldn't work itself loose, so someone who knows what they are doing needs to have a look. Loctite is the 'gaffer tape, cable tie and staple gun' solution to this one. It might work but is it actually fixing the issue or treating the symptoms?

Posted

Slight hijack......

 

I've been thinking of getting one of these so I can use a "normal"(Shimano) bb on my GXP crankset.

 

Is this a good idea? I'm scared that Shimano bb's won't be able to cope with the side stress of the GXP's design.

 

Hijack of...

 

Get a WheelsMFG BB. Not much more than a GXP, and the bearings are replaceable and available separately.

Posted

If it's one of the others, the preload is done with a wave washr or not at all. If the installation spacing is incorrect, you could have play, which will cause damage and also cause the crank arm to work itself loose.

 

So, loctite may keep everything in place, but if it's not fitting snug as a bug in a rug the symptoms won't be visible until the Bearings/thread/spindle whatever starts to wear from lateral play.

 

If torqued correctly the bolt shouldn't work itself loose, so someone who knows what they are doing needs to have a look. Loctite is the 'gaffer tape, cable tie and staple gun' solution to this one. It might work but is it actually fixing the issue or treating the symptoms?

 

That makes no sense. Loctite doesn't remove play, add washers, correct spacing, change torque etc. If you have pieces missing or installed incorrectly the problem will be obvious from the start - bb will be tight, there will be play in the bb etc. Loctite will make zero difference to those problems.

 

If loctite is the gaffer tape of the world why do so many parts comes standard from the factory with it on the threads (including some bb bolts)?

 

To be fair I've only ever used the loctite solution on a handful of crank - the vast majority work just fine with a little grease and correct torquing but every now and then there is a crank that just doesn't want to stay tight no matter how many times you replace washers, bolts and spacers or read the manual - for those there is loctite. And to be even fairer - the vast majority of those were shimano square taper cranks. Those things came from the factory with loctite on the bolt and they still came loose.

Posted

I don't think I got my point across very well if that's what you took from it.

 

Loctite won't fix play. If there is play, it will cause the bolt to work loose. By putting loctite on the bolt won't work loose. There will still be play.

 

Things will wear incorrectly. Loctite will mask that by the bolt not working loose.

 

It does make sense. Square taper issues are entirely more standard as there is no pre load, there is no correct spacer and you screw the bolt/crank arm on till you can't. 

 

I don't know, like everyone I am speculating because PITCHAAS or more information should really be supplied for a reasonable answer to be provided.

 

Throwing out 'loctite' is like throwing out a tube of superglue to a guy who says he keeps cutting the end of his finger off with a knife. It will stick the part back on, but it won't stop him from cutting it off again...

Posted

I suppose this is slightly unrelated, but bare with me.

 

I used to work at a bike shop in the not so distant past. I built plenty of bikes there. When the latest Sram Red 22 group set came out, we had plenty issues with their bolts working their way loose on the BB30 cranks.

 

In the end, loctite was the only thing that fixed it. It was not an issue with spacing, as the spacing was checked and double checked and triple checked. It was not a torque issue, because I torqued them to exact specification every time.

 

We never had any issues with BB bearings or crank spindles etc wearing out prematurely or unevenly. In fact, I have this exact frame and crank set and after a year of racing and training, I still have the original ceramic bearings in the BB that came with the frame set. And they are still smooth.

 

But having said all of that, this seemed to be an isolated issue with that specific model of frame paired with that specific model of crank set, on more than one or two bikes.

 

However, using a different crank model on the specific frame gave no issues and using the Red22 BB30 crank on other brands of BB30 frame also gave no issues.

 

Anyway, I don't remember the point to my story, but hopefully some one at least found it mildly entertaining.

Posted

Throwing out 'loctite' is like throwing out a tube of superglue to a guy who says he keeps cutting the end of his finger off with a knife. It will stick the part back on, but it won't stop him from cutting it off again...

 

To be fair, sticking the end of your finger back on is actually the only thing that superglue really works for...

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