New MTB rider assistance

[Zach Linde]

Hi, I am looking to get back into the MTB space, had a few MTBs in my younger years, since a lot of things changed between then and now I need some assistance. 

Size: 1.91m Tall

Budget: around R5k but not limmited to.

 

Looked around the new market, and the second hand market I feel like I can get better value for money if buying second hand. Saw a few options on FB for a 29inch Large frame not sure if this is big enough. If possible to give me guidance on what whould be best.

 

Also what is the difference between normal tyres and tubeless? 

[Chingy182]

1st thing - at 1.91m height you should be looking at XL frames and not Large

2nd hand is definitely the way to go, but R5k budget will not be buying you a mountain bike.

If You could perhaps push your budget at least to R10k-R12k, you might find something worth your time.

At that price point, you're looking mainly at Hardtail bikes.

Tubeless tires means you have no inner tube under your tire and you put in sealant that plugs small punctures that would normally force you to stop and do a repair or changing of a inner tube.
This is the way to go

[RobynE 🚵‍♀️]

Ok so this is a bit of a “how long is a piece of string” question.

In terms of budget, if you stretch it to around 9k you’ll probably get something decent ie 29” wheels, robust drivetrain, decent brakes. Second hand. 5k won’t get you much at all and you’ll very quickly spend another 5k fixing stuff. If you’re buying second hand stick to known brands - Trek, Giant, Merida, Momsen, Scott, Silverback, Titan, etc. 27.5”/650b is also a capable wheel size. 26” is not dead but for someone your size wanting to ride, not a long or even medium term solution. 

Minimum ie entry levels of brands you want to see on the bike are Deore/XT/SLX, SRAM SX or NX, Rockshox/Fox/SR Suntour. You don’t want to see Nutt, Zoom, Tektro (only if it’s hydraulic brakes), Tourney, Alivio, Microshift, L-Twoo. Some of these are just ***. Others are fiddly, others have no local support. Stick to tried and tested components. Doesn’t mean the ones that I listed as good WILL be good, second-hand, but chances of their failure/irritation factor will be less. 

Make sure the gears change smoothly and the brakes work properly, and that nothing is cracked. Check that the seals on the fork aren’t perished and that the wheels spin freely. Then ride it until the upgrade bug bites. The bug is a persistent and fast-moving thing.  

Tubed vs tubeless: tubeless has no tubes. Not all tyres are capable of tubeless and it requires your rim to have tubeless tape and valves, and sealant. Then, when you get a puncture, it usually seals itself without you even knowing, or you can seal it with a mushroom plug or new-age patch, put air back in, and carry on. Typically tubeless means there’s no removing wheel and tyre to fix a puncture. You top up the sealant every few months. On an MTB there’s no logic in running tubes anymore. Every tyre over ~R500 these days is capable of tubeless. To ensure the tyre is tubeless it must say TLR or Tubeless or 2Bliss somewhere on the sidewall. Tubeless tyres have different construction to tubed. Tubeless all the way. 

[RobynE 🚵‍♀️]

Oh and make sure the drivetrain isn’t toast - it must shift smoothly under load in all gears. New cassettes these days are not cheap. So you might find a well-priced bike and think you’re getting a bargain but a new freehub, cassette and chain will quickly knock you back 5k.

If buying from a dealer such as Bike Market ensure that the condition report matches what you’re looking at and if the report says the drivetrain is Fair or even Good, ask them how much to sort it out before you purchase.

Smashing your bits on a saddle or top tube because you’ve slipped a gear under load is not fun and you’ll soon be second-guessing your idea to ride bikes again. 

[Zebra]

…agree with others; at your height, DEFINITELY look at XL, your height is outside of Large…

Agree to TRY buy a 29”er, but there WERE people your size on 26”ers, and GOOD 26”ers sell for ‘pennies’; often with a decent groupset, too; you MAY find a GOOD 26”er for less money than a 29”er, but your R5k is very low - R9k to R12k gets you more bike (29”er), etc…

Second hand market WAY better value than new, just CHECK drivetrain components, and fork seals (if you can?), since you do not want to buy an affordable bike and then throw good money after bad, as it were!
 

Good luck, and. - i think - DOUBLE your budget, and you will get a few years of trouble-free riding, if you chose right! Maybe take a knowledgeable mate along so he/she can give potential bike the once over!
 

Chris