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Posted

Johan, the confidence thing about leaning the bike has nothing to do with my confidence or lack thereof. I agree that the younger we are, the higher the risks we are willing to take, but having ridden bikes for so long as a kid, I was full of confidence when I first got on my present bike, until I leaned over in a corner and almost toppled the dam thing.

 

Yes, it has created huge fear and the confidence I once had, is gone.

 

I cannot explain why it is, but this bike just does not like to lean. Cornereing is now a combination of steering and a small amount of lean. Cornering is also a lot slower than it used to be on my old Sun.

 

During my first 94.7 challenge, there were a number of times when the bike almost fell over in corners so now I corner with my foot off the pedal just in case.

 

I know it is not smart to ride without hands on the handle bars, but I could do that all day with my Sun. This one is impossible and you cannot ride for even 10 seconds without hands-on. It vears left and also gives one the impression of instant crash and burn.

 

As I got the bike second hand, maybe the frame is bent which is something I never considered until now. It all looks in line and everything appears to be normal in the forks and the geometry I can see.

 

The tyres I have are Conti so I doubt they are a problem.

 

Changin hub systems implies money spent on a bike I have little or no confidence in. The last quote I got for that was some 2,5 grand, far more than the bike is worth and with it's handling characteristics, is not a wise spend. This was several years ago.

 

I agree that it is time to change the technology and the reason I am here is to gain some wisdom and insight, so that my next purchase is a great one.

 

Are there some shops that will let one test-drive a bike?
Posted

If your bike is veering to the side when you take your hands off the bars, then your headset is probably pitted. Meaning that your steering will effectively lock in a certain direction (straight ahead).

 

This could also be responsible for your nervous cornering as the bike will want to steer in a direction a little different from the one you're pointing it in.

Posted

I cannot explain why it is' date=' but this bike just does not like to lean. Cornereing is now a combination of steering and a small amount of lean. Cornering is also a lot slower than it used to be on my old Sun.

 

[/quote'] 

 

Aha, a different picture is now emerging. It veers and to the one side only. Either the frame or fork is bent or the headset is so jammed that the bike doesn't like turning.

 

I still don't understand the bit about it cornering slower.... Cornering speed is a function of linear speed and the radius you're cornering at.  Just saying that cornering is slow is confusing.

 

 

 

During my first 94.7 challenge' date=' there were a number of times when the bike almost fell over in corners so now I corner with my foot off the pedal just in case.

 

[/quote'] 

 

Have someone else ride it and diagnose the problem.

 

I know it is not smart to ride without hands on the handle bars' date=' but I could do that all day with my Sun. This one is impossible and you cannot ride for even 10 seconds without hands-on. It vears left and also gives one the impression of instant crash and burn.

 

[/quote'] 

 

Your mother wasn't always right. Riding no-hands is a useful skill that contributes to your overall bike handling skills. There is nothing stupid about this act.

 

 

As I got the bike second hand' date=' maybe the frame is bent which is something I never considered until now. It all looks in line and everything appears to be normal in the forks and the geometry I can see.

 

[/quote'] 

 

The fog is clearing.

 

 

The tyres I have are Conti so I doubt they are a problem.

 

 

 

Even if they were India Rubber tyres the problem would not be there.

 

 

Changin hub systems implies money spent on a bike I have little or no confidence in. The last quote I got for that was some 2' date='5 grand, far more than the bike is worth and with it's handling characteristics, is not a wise spend. This was several years ago.

 

I agree that it is time to change the technology and the reason I am here is to gain some wisdom and insight, so that my next purchase is a great one.

 

Are there some shops that will let one test-drive a bike?
[/quote']

 

I think it is time to you visit a shop and ask. I can't see them denying you this. They will also answer all your sizing questions.
Posted

2008 Schwinn Circuit - R2900

PM me

FEATURES

Schwinn N'Litened Aluminum Frame & N'Gauged Cro-Moly Fork

Shimano 2200 Drivetrain & Shifters, Truvativ Iso-Flow Cranks

Alloy 32h Hubs & Double-Wall Rims, Schwalbe Lugano Sport 23c Tires

Road Tuned 31.8 Alloy Handlebar & Stem

http://www.schwinnbike.com/SchwinnFiles/ProductImages/478_311_S8CIR_255_1.jpg

Posted
2008 Schwinn Circuit - R2900

PM me

FEATURES

Schwinn N'Litened Aluminum Frame & N'Gauged Cro-Moly Fork

Shimano 2200 Drivetrain & Shifters' date=' Truvativ Iso-Flow Cranks

Alloy 32h Hubs & Double-Wall Rims, Schwalbe Lugano Sport 23c Tires

Road Tuned 31.8 Alloy Handlebar & Stem

 

[/quote']

 

Kerzactly

 

This is what he needs.

 

It won't topple over, not even with a tall rider. Wink

 

 

I think there must be a zillion bargains like this out there. This one is the best though, with its Road Tuned bars and all.

 

 

 

 
Posted
If your bike is veering to the side when you take your hands off the bars' date=' then your headset is probably pitted. Meaning that your steering will effectively lock in a certain direction (straight ahead).

This could also be responsible for your nervous cornering as the bike will want to steer in a direction a little different from the one you're pointing it in. [/quote']

 

I also thought so but since it is only veering to the left, I suspect something else. Dimpled headsets veer right or left when riding no hands and fishtail when riding with the hands on the bars.

 

Time for a new bike anyway, most parts are probably either obsolete or buggered.

 

 
Posted

Niterider, that sounds like a reasonable explanation. I know that there is a centralised "setting" where the handles will "centre" to. This seems to be a bit left of centre.

 

When I got the bike several years ago, I pretty much stripped it, checked all the bearings, cups and regreased everything from the wheels, cranks and pedals.  

 

This I tend to do at the begining of each season as a "service" and to be sure that everything is in order.

 

I have not checked the headset for a while and will defintely do so on the weekend.

 

The poor handling charateristics though have been there from day one when I got the bike and first rode it. (The road I lived in at the time came off a reasonable downhill so the left turn was at moderate speed and this was when I first noticed that the bike would not lean well in any corner. My first attempt was far too close to crash and roasties for comfort. )

 

Since then, leaning over at more than say 5 degrees off the vertical on either side, the bike seems to want to "dive into the dirt"on either side. Positively terrifying.

 
Posted

I'm in agreement with the "pitted stem" reasoning.

 

However, I know what you mean about bikes failing to inspire confidence in corners, duie to any number of things. Dicky rims, bent forks, even being too tall and making you fold yourself like a pretzel has it's effect on stability, and not just in the corners.

 

Bottom line, find what feels comfortable for youm and stick with it. Most bike stores will let you take a test-ride if you leave your car keys / license there with them. Some even let you take it without those things. Go with what looks right as well. It's amazing how accurate gut feelings can actually be. And when you're comfortable, get them to set it up for you in the shop. It'll do wonders for the enjoyment of the ride, as well as comfort on the long rides.

 

As for confidence, it'll come back with a bike that has all its bits in the right place... and lets you corner. I find the more compact the frame, the easier you can throw it around. Purely because you can move around it more effectively, and you don't have to move as far to get the same angle of lean as with a tall bike. Simple geometry, really.
Posted

 

I find the more compact the frame' date=' the easier you can throw it around. Purely because you can move around it more effectively, and you don't have to move as far to get the same angle of lean as with a tall bike. Simple geometry, really.
[/quote']

 

That is a dodgy statement. To get one degree of lean you have to lean one degree, no matter how small or tall the frame. "move around more effectively" is also pretty meaningless.

 

This thread is going downhill. 
Posted

dude, you have no idea of simple geometry. if a pole is 2m tall, you have to move it, say, 10CM.

 

To move a 10m pole the same angle, you have to move the top by 50cm. that's alot more distance to move, correct?. Simple, dude. For some, that is.

 

Also stands to reason that if the crossbar is lover, there's more room to move up, down, and sideways. I could move alot more when i changed frames... Old style Giant Sedona to a new, compact Giant XTC. Try it - you might be surprised. This is exactly why BMXers can move the way they do, and do it so damn fast. Have a look.

 

This thread is still here. and it provides info for people, if not in the way that they're normally used to receiving it.
cptmayhem2008-10-07 04:16:04

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