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Posted
brighter-lights.com

 

Come on fand you must know that these are the best by now.Big%20smile

 

 

his brightest light uses 4x16w LED's... only just more than half of the 100W LED above LOL
Posted

He is busy building a light with 12Shocked LED's in it. Not sure who is trying to signal with it.Clown But quite sure he will be able to see a little bit further than I can with my Rev-3.Cry

Posted

7000 lumens at 100W... 70 lumens per watt, quite good, but useless as a bike light... Led's we use in bike lights currently about 100 lumens per watt at 350mA and comes down to 80 lumens per watt at high current.

Would need a massive heatsink + housing...

 

33Volts and 3.3Amps - the battery to run this for 1.5 hours will be:

 

Lead Acid : 10kg

Lithium Polymer : 1.8kg

 

If you look at the monster LED lights they use for offroad racing on ralley cars, they still use the same single LED's I use in my lights, arranged in clusters or bars of up to 1.5m wide...

 

BTW... I'm designing a new light with 12 LED's and 2400 lumens. Same features as Rev-3 and Rev-4, 5 power levels, temperature cutoff, battery level indicator + cutoff etc etc etc. 500g battery will give 1h40 on high and 12 hours on lowest level. 50mm x 150mm finned cast alu casing.

 

I'm going massive... in the last 24hr I had 2x 750lumen lights on my bar and I want more... I want to set everything around me on fire :) with this light and a little 'dimming' on the climbs, I'll need 6 batteries to run through the night on a high level, vs the 4 batteries I used with the twin light setup.  

 

The truck/car version will be a straight 12v light with no dimming controls.

 

LED's .... cool stuff...  

 

 

 

 
Posted

7000 lumens at 100W... 70 lumens per watt' date=' quite good, but useless as a bike light... Led's we use in bike lights currently about 100 lumens per watt at 350mA and comes down to 80 lumens per watt at high current.

Would need a massive heatsink + housing...

 

33Volts and 3.3Amps - the battery to run this for 1.5 hours will be:

 

Lead Acid : 10kg

Lithium Polymer : 1.8kg

 

If you look at the monster LED lights they use for offroad racing on ralley cars, they still use the same single LED's I use in my lights, arranged in clusters or bars of up to 1.5m wide...

 

BTW... I'm designing a new light with 12 LED's and 2400 lumens. Same features as Rev-3 and Rev-4, 5 power levels, temperature cutoff, battery level indicator + cutoff etc etc etc. 500g battery will give 1h40 on high and 12 hours on lowest level. 50mm x 150mm finned cast alu casing.

 

I'm going massive... in the last 24hr I had 2x 750lumen lights on my bar and I want more... I want to set everything around me on fire :) with this light and a little 'dimming' on the climbs, I'll need 6 batteries to run through the night on a high level, vs the 4 batteries I used with the twin light setup.  

 

The truck/car version will be a straight 12v light with no dimming controls.

 

LED's .... cool stuff...  

 

 

 

 
[/quote']

 

Brighter lights.. I have been riding with an old "smart" dont even know the model name anymore for about 5 years... I dont ride at night to often, and While doing it Its a experiance in itself... My question to you (lumen junkyWink)  Is ...What do you think a Healthy amount of Lumens would be ? I meen ofcourse providing It has good spread etc..

Do you think theres a Point to which the Gains in lumens for exampel 700 is not directly equvalent in performance gain from the riders point of view anymore?

 

Sorry I dont know If Im asking the question correctly  here.. But In plain English.. Im wondering If I wouldnt take a lighter settup that makes say 500lumens for the same time as a pose to having a 500g battery for  a brazilian lumens...

 

My old smart light (more like a candle compared to these you got) puts out 130lumens.. and I have "managed with it even though I would love a bit more..

 

Its a honnest question- no perogative...Wink
Posted

7000 lumens at 100W... 70 lumens per watt' date=' quite good, but useless as a bike light... Led's we use in bike lights currently about 100 lumens per watt at 350mA and comes down to 80 lumens per watt at high current.

Would need a massive heatsink + housing...

 

33Volts and 3.3Amps - the battery to run this for 1.5 hours will be:

 

Lead Acid : 10kg

Lithium Polymer : 1.8kg

 

If you look at the monster LED lights they use for offroad racing on ralley cars, they still use the same single LED's I use in my lights, arranged in clusters or bars of up to 1.5m wide...

 

BTW... I'm designing a new light with 12 LED's and 2400 lumens. Same features as Rev-3 and Rev-4, 5 power levels, temperature cutoff, battery level indicator + cutoff etc etc etc. 500g battery will give 1h40 on high and 12 hours on lowest level. 50mm x 150mm finned cast alu casing.

 

I'm going massive... in the last 24hr I had 2x 750lumen lights on my bar and I want more... I want to set everything around me on fire :) with this light and a little 'dimming' on the climbs, I'll need 6 batteries to run through the night on a high level, vs the 4 batteries I used with the twin light setup.  

 

The truck/car version will be a straight 12v light with no dimming controls.

 

LED's .... cool stuff...  

 

 

 

 
[/quote']

 

Will you take a kidney for a Rev-4Cry.
Posted

I am sure he will take a kidney and a box of smarties for a Rev-4. We are riding three to four nights a week and I only charge my battery like every third to fourth week.

 

These lights are certainly worth their weight in Gold.

 

Sorry for the hi-jackEmbarrassed Fand. But have to give BL credit for the most awesome lights available on my doorstep. Thanks BL for a brilliant product. Will promote all the time.
Posted

 

Brighter lights.. I have been riding with an old "smart" dont even know the model name anymore for about 5 years... I dont ride at night to often' date=' and While doing it Its a experiance in itself... My question to you (lumen junkyWink)  Is ...What do you think a Healthy amount of Lumens would be ? I meen ofcourse providing It has good spread etc..

Do you think theres a Point to which the Gains in lumens for exampel 700 is not directly equvalent in performance gain from the riders point of view anymore?

 

Sorry I dont know If Im asking the question correctly  here.. But In plain English.. Im wondering If I wouldnt take a lighter settup that makes say 500lumens for the same time as a pose to having a 500g battery for  a brazilian lumens...

 

My old smart light (more like a candle compared to these you got) puts out 130lumens.. and I have "managed with it even though I would love a bit more..

 

Its a honnest question- no perogative...Wink
[/quote']

 

I think it depends on the individual, and the riding environment.

 

I think 220 to 250 lumens with a 8 degree beam gives enough light to go quite fast on gravel roads if you don't mind missing the scenery, but gives good visibility up to 40m ahead of you so doing 30 to 35km/h feels comfortable (again... depends on how quick your brain processes the terrain)

 

On a dark night in a deep kloof, even 140 lumens appears bright!

 

In singletrack, it's a whole different story... there you need distance and width if you wanna go fast.

 

If you ride alone at night and are scared of the dark, then you need more than 220 lumens... When I talk 220 lumens I kinda include the 8 degree optic, which is very good to 40m... but spreading the beam drastically decreases the throwing distance... so other lights with a 250 lumen rated output might be quite dim if the optic is wide, or just poorly designed.

 

The guys with Revelation-3s mostly ride on level 3, which is 340 lumens - that's why their batteries last so long between charges... at this level it burns for almost 20 hours...

 

Myself... I could ride anywhere quite fast with 300 to 400 lumens, but while I don't really need all that light when training at night, in a 24hr solo it's different.

 

I feel that by being able to see the trail + the surrounding scenery, my vision is preserved longer and I can relax, while at the same time I can see my controls and computers, so it's pretty much the same as riding in daylight.

 

 

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