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Posted

If you already train harder and you still want to beat your opponent  with a couple of seconds more and  still want to upgrade or spend money on your bike go for new wheels . Go for Easton EA 90SL or SLX

Posted
... and you still want to beat your opponent  with a couple of seconds more and  still want to upgrade or spend money on your bike ....

 

That is exactly what marketers at big bike companies try very hard to tell us. It is also what we want to hear, thanks to being brought up in a capitalist free market. More expensive is always better, not so? Confused

 

I suspect if carbon stems were cheaper than aluminium stems, a lot less of them would have been sold.

 

Spend money on a better coach, power meters, a good indoor trainer etc first - stuff that can realy make you faster if used right. Buy the wheels, carbon stems etc. later to look good.

 

 
Posted

true..... if i were to upgrade....what wheels would u people recommend?

 

Campagnolo Bora Tubulars - Super Stiff, Very light, Ultra responsive, very nice ride, did I mention I have a set for sale?
Posted

 

I sure as hell hope that deepsection tubulars makes a difference. Im picking up mine tomorow

 

Don't worry, they make a difference. They sound different, look different, feel a bit different when you ride, too. They wil make you between 1-2 min faster if you do a 40km TT. Don't expect to see a difference in bunch races, though - if it is there, it is hard to notice in the results.  
Christie2009-05-05 10:44:02
Posted
why (and how) do deep sections make a difference ?


 

For SA conditions, purely areodynamics. The deeper rim creates less drag than a box section rim, making you 40 to 80 seconds faster over a 40km TT.

 

When riding in a bunch, like in a race, you ride in a slipstream created by the rider in front of you, meaning the airflow you are exposed to will largely depend on the aerodynamics of the riders in front of you, and not that of your rims. If you do spen a lot of time in the wind, like riding at the fron of the bunch, or go on break aways, then deeper rims will again help you.

 

Some deepsection carbon wheels are lighter than clinchers. This helps on long climbs they race over in Europe. Most of our races are flat, so lower mass makes much less of a difference over here.
Posted
meaning normal wheels are ok to race with' date=' so if you going to worry about the rolling resistance, look at better bearings?


[/quote']

 

See my comment about tyre rolling resistance here:

 

The differenced between tubbies and clinchers are small enough not to make a big difference, if you ride some good clincher tyres.

 

The difference in rolling resistance between ceramic bearings and top end steel bearings is very very small, in most cases not worth the expense. It will perhaps make a couple of seconds difference over 40km - perhaps worh it for the pro's.

 

I think the biggest gains for most cyclists would be:

a coach

a dietitian

stuff like a good indoor trainer, perhaps a power meter.

 

These all have potential to gain lots of speed. Wheels, lighter frame etc. should come only after. 
Posted

 

meaning normal wheels are ok to race with' date=' so if you going to worry about the rolling resistance, look at better bearings?

 

 

[/quote']

 

See my comment about tyre rolling resistance here:

 

The differenced between tubbies and clinchers are small enough not to make a big difference, if you ride some good clincher tyres.

 

The difference in rolling resistance between ceramic bearings and top end steel bearings is very very small, in most cases not worth the expense. It will perhaps make a couple of seconds difference over 40km - perhaps worh it for the pro's.

 

I think the biggest gains for most cyclists would be:

a coach

a dietitian

stuff like a good indoor trainer, perhaps a power meter.

 

These all have potential to gain lots of speed. Wheels, lighter frame etc. should come only after. 

 

no no no christie, you have just gone and ruined EVERYTHING...I mean a R100,000 bike plus R50,000 additional equipment is not going to take me from 17689 place to 17688??

 

 

 

 

but I get your point - was just trying to get to where and why these things would make a difference and over what sort of distances they become significant.

 

Posted

Evil%20Smile

 

Ok, let say you already have less than 10% fat, have a coach and a power meter. You also have got lots of money on the bank, trut funds etc, and still want to spend some of your spare change on the bike:

 

Lets say you have an alu frame, standard box wheels the bike came with, Shimano Sora or something.

 

My first upgrade would be the groupset. A coach will make you ride lots, and entry level components dont handle riding 5 or 6 times per week well. I would aim for Ultegra, Campy Centaur or SRAM Force. It won't make you much faster, but quality components will improve your enjoyment, and handle regular riding better.

Second would be wheels. Either some factory wheels, or some quality handbuilt ones from a good builder like JB, depending on what you want to do, if you have a backup car during races etc. For absolute speed, deepsections are faster (though not as much as marketers would like you to belive, in bunch races)

Next would be the handlebar - also not a for speed gain, but when you stand and power out of the saddle, you notice the difference between a stiff and a flexible bar.

Last would be the frame - it won't make any speed difference, and I don't believe most people can truly feel the difference in ride quality, but a nice light frame will inspire you to ride more, so get a pretty one.

 

   

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