MTB - Cleat built up - leg length discrepancy

[knobblyman]

did you get an answer on this?? What you could use as a wedge??

 

I have a leg length descrepency of 2.6cm. I build up to about 1.7 cm. the only problem is that when i unclip from my MTB pedal, the whole cleat turns to and eventually comes loose. On my road bike this is not an issue.

 

Any ideas greatly appreciated.

 

thx

[SwissVan]

Diffilcult to find for mtb cleats and then once the spacer is added the shoe behaves a bit like a road shoe when walking.

 

Have a look at this site, they offer various types of spacers for mtb cleats.

Also Google Steve Hogg and check his bike fit web pages.

 

http://www.bikefit.com/p-21-1-pack-3-mm-spdmtb-leg-length-shim.aspx

[MTB_Roadie]

You guys have any idea what to fit in between your MTB cleat plate and you shoe do raise it a bit for leg length discrepancy ?

 

Very tight spot. There some shims one can buy or make a boere plan yourself ?

 

Thanx

 

 

Olypmic cycles sells a Rear Foot Varsus Correction wedge for a MTB, I had to get it for my right leg....they about R70

[Johan Bornman]

I just fitted a long-left short-right crank for a customer who had a similar problem. The raised cleat works on the bike but is difficult to walk in.

 

With such a large discrepancy you actually have an easy way out - drill another hole in the crank, thread it and fit the pedal closer to the crank. This will even out your riding at least.

 

People who can't do this are the ones with smaller discrepancies where the new hole will overlap with the old one.

 

The solution is elegant for riding but poses some challenges elsewhere:

 

1) It doesn't improve walking (But that you can overcome with a clip-on sole).

2) The operation is difficult and should you have to do this to the crank with left-hand thread, it becomes expensive.

3) Newer cranks are hollow, however, Shimano's hollowtech cranks have a solid eyepiece welded onto an open, forged crank shank and there may be enough meat in there for a hole.

4) Carbon cranks can't be on your wish-list.

 

However, once you've sourced all the bits and pieces and expertise, it is an operation that's easy to repeat for other bikes.

[Fitter]

Who measured the LLD?

How much is the LLD?

Is this a skeletal or functional LLD?

Where is the LLD - tibia or fibula or a combo of both?

 

Please PM me and I'll sort you out. I have the shims (if they are required) and they work fine.

 

And NEVER adjust for LLD unless you have a clear understanding of what is at play and have a proper bike fitter attend to the solution. Also, NEVER adjust for LLD by shortening a crank, irrespective of the quantum of difference.

[Johan Bornman]

 

And NEVER adjust for LLD unless you have a clear understanding of what is at play and have a proper bike fitter attend to the solution. Also, NEVER adjust for LLD by shortening a crank, irrespective of the quantum of difference.

 

I'd be interested to know why not.

[Fitter]

I'd be interested to know why not.

 

LLD can be skeletal or functional - this latter includes pelvic rotation/displacement or neural (left brain hemispherical domination). Often a skeletal LLD will be functionally compensated for by the rider. Most often though, LLD needs to be dynamically assessed on the bike and the proper correction made after assessment.

 

As to correcting for LLD by shortening the crank - think about it ........

All you are doing is decreasing the rotational travel of a (somehow) shorter leg. And while the shorter crank might help (in a VERY limited fashion) at the lowest part of the pedal revolution, it actually exacerbates LLD at the top of the pedal stroke. This in addition to functionally altering neural/muscular enlistment, leverage, foot velocity etc.