The best MTB wheels and hubs?

[swoosh1973]

If you know about wheels for MTB please enlighten me as to what the best hubs and hoop combination for Cross country endurance riding and why?

 

Also what makes a hoop or a hub quality in your opinion? I am looking for something with the smoothest rolling motion possible, with the highest resistance to wear and going out of true.

 

Weight is not my biggest concern. Not sure what to choose. Then I plan on finding a good wheel builder. None of these factory built stuff no more. I am tired of rims that go out of true and loose spokes.

 

I have been told a good wheel builder does a better job than a mchine? Opinions on this would also be welcome

[rock]

whats your budget and your riding intention with them? assume you want to go some tubeless option - UST or stans type system?

 

sorry I see you did say xc endurance etc.

[Sammajoor]

If you know about wheels for MTB please enlighten me as to what the best hubs and hoop combination for Cross country endurance riding and why?

 

Also what makes a hoop or a hub quality in your opinion? I am looking for something with the smoothest rolling motion possible, with the highest resistance to wear and going out of true.

 

Weight is not my biggest concern. Not sure what to choose. Then I plan on finding a good wheel builder. None of these factory built stuff no more. I am tired of rims that go out of true and loose spokes.

 

I have been told a good wheel builder does a better job than a mchine? Opinions on this would also be welcome

 

Talk to Jahan Bornmann on the hub, wheel builder of note. Better still, why not do one of his wheel building classes. Then you build your own wheels.

[swoosh1973]

Ok, thanks guys.

 

But going on a wheel building course and building weels once in 5 years. Im not sure if thats practical for me. I would rather have him build them.

 

I just thought there might be someone on the hub with experience and knowledge on the subject of what the actaul best components are? I dont want tp pay through my nose and find that actaulay XT is the same quality as XTR except for weight.

Budget? R3000, tubeless yes. Kilometers covered per week. I average60-90km a week of actual MTB riding. Enjoy many races.

Ride in the Cape. But will be moving to KZN in January.

[dcal]

If you know about wheels for MTB please enlighten me as to what the best hubs and hoop combination for Cross country endurance riding and why?

 

Also what makes a hoop or a hub quality in your opinion? I am looking for something with the smoothest rolling motion possible, with the highest resistance to wear and going out of true.

 

Weight is not my biggest concern. Not sure what to choose. Then I plan on finding a good wheel builder. None of these factory built stuff no more. I am tired of rims that go out of true and loose spokes.

 

I have been told a good wheel builder does a better job than a mchine? Opinions on this would also be welcome

The best wheels are Industry Nine.

Rear hub has 120 engaging points, that is 45 more than chris king.

 

I have a set and they are the best wheels I have ever ridden

[HowellingWulf]

Hope Pro II's on Stans ZTR Olympic or ZTR 355 rims. If you have more cash, change the Hope's to Chris King hubs. DT Swiss Competition double butted spokes.

[swoosh1973]

Thanks. What do you mean by "engaging points"?

[rock]

for tubless I'm a big supporter of Stans rims, they just work and are super light - go for the new "crest" rim for something not completely 'race day only' and build up with DT comp spokes (super comp if you can get) brass nipples for longevity, yes alloy are ligher and for hubs, best value no nonsense would be somthing like shimano xt, hope pro2 if you can spend a bit more, then I9's and then chris kings if money falls out camelbak.....

 

order a custom set from CRC, not only do they discount all the components of the wheels for their customs builds, they dont charge to build either and for that price range you'll get free shipping.

[rock]

ok, I'm such a slow typer I think I just repeated everything that was said above.....

 

I9's more contact points than CK's.....? wow.

[swoosh1973]

Rock..thanks boet..now I am getting somewhere!

[Johan Bornman]

The best wheels are Industry Nine.

Rear hub has 120 engaging points, that is 45 more than chris king.

 

I have a set and they are the best wheels I have ever ridden

 

 

You make it sound like 120 engaging points are somehow better than 119 and 118 and and.

 

I suppose Shimano, Campag and all the rest with their 1 (yes, ONE) points are therefore 120 times worse?

 

This is a common fallacy. In pawl and ratchet type clutch systems like DT, Chris King etc, only one point truly engages. And if one is strong enough, it is strong enough.

 

I've seen an argument where more engagement points give you better "ratcheting" when riding in narrow trenches or technical sections. To a point, there is a point but largely it is moot.

 

Hub quality is not a function of engagement points, but bearing type, seals, serviceablilty, spares availability and cost of those spares.

 

From a wheelbuilding perspective, hub quality is also a function of the flange angle, the amount of dish, the shape of the spoke holes and the method of manufacturing - forging being superior.

[Johan Bornman]

Thanks. What do you mean by "engaging points"?

 

It is the resolution of the ratchet. Ratchets and clutches have two engaging components: pawls and ratchets or ratchets on ratchets. The ratchet is a zig-zag pattern of steel in a circular configuration. Inside it a series of spring-loaded pawls engage. If there are 36 ratchets in your wheel, you'll have a ratchet point at every 10 degrees. That is if you only have one pawl. However, most wheels have two or more. Further, they don't both engage at the same time. When the one pawl is engaged, the other is lying waiting to engage just one half ratched further.

 

If you have three pawls, you effectively have an engagement point at every 3.3 degrees. Imagine 3.3 degrees on your crank. This crank, effectively has 36 x 3 ratchet points. Which is 108 engagement points.

 

Some manufacturers feel they have to differentiate their products and then build one or two more ratchet points into their hubs. This is of course just nonsense.

 

I am yet to come across a hub that doesn't have enough ratchet points.

 

Enough is enough.

[The expat cyclist]

Johan, don't know if anyone ever asked you this before but: (Mtb wheels)

 

1. If money was not a problem and you could build a wheelset, what rims, spokes, hubs etc would you use?

2. And for an entry level? ie. cheapest VALUE FOR MONEY wheelset?

3. Lastly, what criteria do you use when building a wheel? ie cost, weight, bearings etc. I know Burry Stander once said that he looks at bearings first and then weight!

 

I hate it when paople ask "what is the best?"

[Johan Bornman]

Johan, don't know if anyone ever asked you this before but: (Mtb wheels)

 

1. If money was not a problem and you could build a wheelset, what rims, spokes, hubs etc would you use?

2. And for an entry level? ie. cheapest VALUE FOR MONEY wheelset?

3. Lastly, what criteria do you use when building a wheel? ie cost, weight, bearings etc. I know Burry Stander once said that he looks at bearings first and then weight!

 

I hate it when paople ask "what is the best?"

 

If money was not an issue:

 

1) Spokes: DT Revolution (any colour) R16 each.

2) Rims ZTR (noTubes) whatever takes your fancy - choose own shape and colour. R980 each.

3) Hubs: Chris King or Hope. R5000 for set (local) or cheaper (import).

 

No-nonsense budget wheels without compromise.

 

1) Spokes: DT Swiss double butted. R9-80 each.

3) Rims: DRC MT 19 or 17 (depending if rim or disc brake) R380 each.

4) Hubs: Shimano SLX - R1200 a set.

 

Criteria for building a wheel.

1) Never build a rubbish wheel. I won't even repair a rubbish wheel since my labour often costs more than the wheel.

2) Don't compromise on any one of the components i.e. minimum double butted spokes and quality hubs and rims.

3) never use straight-gauge spokes. These build easy but don't have durability over the long run.

4) Always use standard components that are freely available anywhere.

5) Don't do prohibited things like build radial on certain hubs.

6) Don't build with aluminium nipples unless the customer insists and understands that they don't last.

7) Don't use Loctite to hold the nipples in place. Use proper spoke tension.

8) Stress-relieve each wheel so that it is gauranteed for life against spoke problems.

 

 

Note: Prices are approximate. I've thumbsucked them half from memory, half from experience just so that the two options are placed in perspective.

[Ovenboi]

I can vouch for the Chris king wheelset. Recently serviced the hub with the Chris King tool. Opening it all up and cleaning it in under 30 mIns. It feels super smooth again.

[HowellingWulf]

Johan, how do the XT wheel set rate on quality vs price vs weight scale?