Scooterza Posted October 6, 2010 Share I have been toying with the idea of doing a tubeless conversion "Ghetto style" for a while now. Big Ben made a very useful post with a few pics that helped me out a bit so I decided to do the same but take quite a few pics with a "proper" camera. I hope these help someone else. This post was made about 2 weeks after the conversion. So step 1 is make sure you have all you need:20" tube (with appropriate valve - luckily I already use Schraeder)Tyre leversTyre slimeScissorsSoapy waterSome way to rapidly inflate the tyres (I found bombs didn't work though others hubbers have had success)http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/3027/startpointrearwheel.jpg I thought I would check the weight before conversion. I MUST point out that my tyre had a LOT of slime inside the tube beforehand which would have made it pretty heavy:http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/9789/massbeforeconversion.jpg Step 2 is to take off your tyre and tube. Someone suggested that turning your tyre inside out may help with it "seating" better against the rim later. Not sure about that but tried anyway. I can say that turning it the right way again was a bit of a pain as the wire bead got very tight!http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/7519/tubeandtyreoffrearwheel.jpghttp://img827.imageshack.us/img827/2356/reartyreinverted.jpg Step 3 is to fit the 20" tube to your rim and inflate slightly. This is actually quite tricky as the tube fits very tightly into the rim and it keeps popping off. Get someone to help you at this step to hold the tube in place whilst you pop it into the rim. http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/4956/tubeinrim.jpghttp://img178.imageshack.us/img178/2176/tubeinrimdetail.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooterza Posted October 6, 2010 Share Step 4 is to cut the tube. Usually the tube has a flash line (little rubber ridge) that you just follow as you cut. At the end you have a flat "ribbon" lying in your rim. Apply soapy water to lubricate the whole process. Also wipe off all the white talcum powder off the inside of the tube. http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/3223/cuttubeshowingvalve.jpghttp://img543.imageshack.us/img543/1341/tubeinrimcutopen.jpghttp://img819.imageshack.us/img819/1812/tubeonrimwithsoap.jpg Step 5 is to put on your tyre. Sadly I got a bit sloppy with photos at this point. So you just carefully put your tyre back on the rim. Ensure that the tube is still overlapping all the way around. Leave a small gap where your tyre is not in the rim to allow the introduction of slime. I used Stans and it worked very well. I put in a full 1.5 caps full. Then I popped in the last bit of the tyre. Step 6 is to inflate the tyre. I tried with a bomb and ended up using 2 bombs before I ended up driving to the garage to use their compressor. Even with the compressor, I had to blast in air for a while before it suddenly "popped" against the rim. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE LOTS OF SOAPY WATER on your tyre to seat the tyre nicely and to pick up leaks. Once it has inflated, slowly rotate the wheel, holding one end downwards and shake it up and down (ie hold it like a big disc with one end low down and shake that up and down, rotate the tyre, shake etc.) Look for the bubbles indicating a leak. If you see one, hold that end down and shake. You are trying to coat that area with the sealant. I had a problem with one wheel that had a bit of a slice in the tyre - maybe 4mm long. I used one of those little rubber plugs to fill the hole and that worked perfectly. Once I put in the plug, the sealant did its job. You will now have an inflated wheel with the rubber of the tube hanging out the sides:http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/259/tyreonrimtubetobecut.jpgI just used a pair of scissors to slice away at this. By pulling on it a bit and using sharp scissors, it just peeled away.http://img815.imageshack.us/img815/3959/detailoftubeandtyreonri.jpg I weighed my wheel again to see if there was a change. This was the rear wheel and shaved off 188g:http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/8108/massafterconversion.jpg And finally the finished product - yes your wheel will sparkle:http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/1821/finishedproduc.gif For the first day or so, I had a bit of leaking but I just took off the wheels, shook them around a lot and pumped the tyres again. Since then, if they are still leaking the leak is very small and slow cause I haven't noticed it. I have ridden a few times since with no hassles. I did a ride in Marico (anyone who has done the Groot Marico MTB ride will know the area) and the terrain there is very tough - lots of rocks and thorns. Rode over this all and no punctures or burping. When I got back, I found a serious thorn in the tyre and never even noticed it! (By the way, with tubeless do you just leave thorns in your tyre - a case of leave sleeping dogs lie?) So I am pretty happy so far. I do FEEL like the bike accelerates better and I like the softer tyres - softer on the ass when riding over rocky roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iRob Posted October 7, 2010 Share Sweeeeeeeeet!!!!!!!! How much did it all cost you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TiBones Posted October 7, 2010 Share If you use a 20" tube for a 26" tyre, should I stay with 20" or go to 24" for a 29er? BTW great post! Edited October 7, 2010 by TiBones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RexFuzzle Posted October 7, 2010 Share I managed to do a 24" rim with a 24" tyre but it was a little hassle. can't find a 20" presta tire. Also been riding about 200kms now without any hassles. I also tried using insulation tape to seal the rim but didn't have any luck. would love to know if someone has had a flat and tried to use the cut up tube again? Oh, also instead of Stans which is mother expensive they have stuff at MaKro or motorbike shops for really cheap that works just as well if you ask me. I got enough for 2 wheels for R50... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted October 7, 2010 Share Awesome post . I follow the same procedure BUT always first inflate the tyre and ensure that it at least seats properly . Once I am happy that it does not leak like a fishermans net do I add the Stans . I have had times when a particular tyre would not seal at all and then the Stans can become a mess . And I really don't care what STANS/Joe's cost , have tried al these other products on the market and they just don't make the grade . I was offered a bottle with Red sheeet in it a few weeks ago (can't remember the make) with promises that this stuff will seal a womans mouth ! It could not even seal the sidewalls of a Conti Vapor properly . Threw it in the dustbin and started over using Stans . No problems ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Vader Posted October 7, 2010 Share Nice picsI've done this conversion for several bikes, with a variation.Cut normal ducttape in 1/2 ( do it while still on the roll, easier)and stick this on as rimtape.No need to put the whole tube in, save weight, you only need a thin strip running along the rim, with a bit wider to hold the valve in place.No need for soapy water, in my experience.Stans/ Joes works by far the best, have tried everything including motorbike sealants.1 bomb has always sealed it for me,( primarily need it for the rapid expansion to seat the bead) but the Co2 seems to react with the Sealant so it is actually better to use a compressor/garage.I've even converted normal 700c Gatorskins to tubeless ( bit tricky to get the tubeless valve to seal over 5bar)Tubes are great for lighting braai fire in emergency ( they don't smoke)and good for tying things down or protecting bikerack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_K Posted October 7, 2010 Share I have done this conversion myself but used insulation tape. If you use tubeless tyres, you cannot go wrong. Oh, and you definately need to stick to Stans! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TiBones Posted October 7, 2010 Share Why is the type of valve important? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtrider Posted October 7, 2010 Share There is a hole in your rim . Some rims got small holes and some big ones . A big valve will not go through a small hole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris_K Posted October 7, 2010 Share You can get a tubeless valves from your LBS. I think they are about R90.00 each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TiBones Posted October 8, 2010 Share Why is the type of valve important? Ahhh Oakey doakey. Thanks - thought it would be waaaaay more technical than that:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooterza Posted October 8, 2010 Share Sweeeeeeeeet!!!!!!!! How much did it all cost you?Hmmm - not 100% sure but I think it was about R140. The stans was about R90 or so if I remember. Bought it all from Cajees Fourways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooterza Posted October 8, 2010 Share If you use a 20" tube for a 26" tyre, should I stay with 20" or go to 24" for a 29er? BTW great post!What you want is a tube that is tight in your rim but as I mentioned, a 20" tube on a 26" rim was already tight so I would use a bigger tube on a 29" rim. Otherwise it will probably be a bastard to get it on without it continuously popping off. So on a 29" rim, a 24 or even 26" tube should do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grebel Posted October 8, 2010 Share You can also fibre tape (the type you find on heavy packing boxes. Not the brown sh!t but the one with the white strips in) to seal the rim. I think it comes in a 20mm width. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grebel Posted October 8, 2010 Share You can also fibre tape (the type you find on heavy packing boxes. Not the brown sh!t but the one with the white strips in) to seal the rim. I think it comes in a 20mm width. Sorry, it is called fillament tape and you can get it from Waltons. 12mm, 18mm and 24mm widths at about R33 for the 24mm roll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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