Johan Bornman Posted January 20, 2011 Share Thanks for that, so respray over powdercoated. So is my mechanic talking bs about the stanchions not coming out? Weird that. Is it easy enough to strip it? Not sure If ill have all the correct tools, are they any tools I will specifically need? What is the slide part, and are there spares available locally, or do I need to shop overseas? Ive included a pic of the bike, not sure if you can see the forks 100% though. Thanks for the email Johan, I'll have a look for the serial no, I'll have to go to the bike shop to have a look for it, I'll also take better pics. Would I be able to get spares from you if needed for the fork, seals & bushes. Yes, respray over powdercoating. The mechanic is talking BS. It comes out easily. Just take off the two footnuts and pull. Don't do this in the lounge. Wear an CSI plastic suit. You'll need a 12mm socket and a long screwdriver to remove the seals. The slider is the bottom part with all the pretty stickers and nice paintwork. The stanchions are the two shiny parts that move in and out of the slider. Yes I have spares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted January 20, 2011 Share Thanks for that, so respray over powdercoated. So is my mechanic talking bs about the stanchions not coming out? Weird that. Is it easy enough to strip it? Not sure If ill have all the correct tools, are they any tools I will specifically need? What is the slide part, and are there spares available locally, or do I need to shop overseas? Ive included a pic of the bike, not sure if you can see the forks 100% though. Thanks for the email Johan, I'll have a look for the serial no, I'll have to go to the bike shop to have a look for it, I'll also take better pics. Would I be able to get spares from you if needed for the fork, seals & bushes. Yes, respray over powdercoating. The mechanic is talking BS. It comes out easily. Just take off the two footnuts and pull. Don't do this in the lounge. Wear an CSI plastic suit. You'll need a 12mm socket and a long screwdriver to remove the seals. The slider is the bottom part with all the pretty stickers and nice paintwork. The stanchions are the two shiny parts that move in and out of the slider. Yes I have spares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleming Posted January 20, 2011 Share One thing to remember is NOT to remove the old V-Brake studs, they hold the fork in alignment. Why do I know that..... do not ask!!!!!! I am sorry but I have to ask. How can removing these allow the fork to go out of alignment? Both lower legs and the arch are cast as one piece. They can not go out of alignment unless they crack. The studs only purpose on this fork is to give you a place to mount the brakes. Perhaps you had a fork like the early model Judy's where the legs, and arch were bolted together and the stud acted as bolt holding the whole lot together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted January 20, 2011 Share Yes, respray over powdercoating. The mechanic is talking BS. It comes out easily. Just take off the two footnuts and pull. Don't do this in the lounge. Wear an CSI plastic suit. You'll need a 12mm socket and a long screwdriver to remove the seals. The slider is the bottom part with all the pretty stickers and nice paintwork. The stanchions are the two shiny parts that move in and out of the slider. Yes I have spares. Thanks again for taking the time to answer all my question & queries, very mush appreciated. your'e the man I'll do it this weekend, gonna pick up the bike this arvo and will get the serial nos to you for what spares I'll need. I may even send the whole fork to you once the spraying has been done. Now what colour scheme am I gonna go for, doh the hard part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Big H Posted January 20, 2011 Share I am sorry but I have to ask. How can removing these allow the fork to go out of alignment? Both lower legs and the arch are cast as one piece. They can not go out of alignment unless they crack. The studs only purpose on this fork is to give you a place to mount the brakes. Perhaps you had a fork like the early model Judy's where the legs, and arch were bolted together and the stud acted as bolt holding the whole lot together. The previous Bomber 3 fork I used on my tandem has a loose arch and legs. When I removed them things started moving while out when I braked. Not a good feeling but leave those studs in place or get the blanks from Marzocchi if you use disks and do not like the studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted February 9, 2011 Share Ok so half way through sanding my fork, what happens with the really hard to reach place I can't sand, can they blast the bits with a fine grit to really clean it all off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EigerSA Posted February 9, 2011 Share didn't read the entire thread but if you going to powder coating then don't worry about sanding since they'll be dipped in a solution that'll strip it anyways. what you sanding with just out of interest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted February 9, 2011 Share didn't read the entire thread but if you going to powder coating then don't worry about sanding since they'll be dipped in a solution that'll strip it anyways. what you sanding with just out of interest? Gonna be getting it sprayed, Im sanding with 320 wet & dry paper. Someone mentioned to me that they can sand blast it with very very fine grit, just needed to confirm this, as Its gonna take ages to get into the tight spots Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EigerSA Posted February 9, 2011 Share When you finished sanding, take it to a powder coater and ask for it to be dipped, they'll charge about R50, that'll strip off the hard to reach places. As for spraying, you'll have to find someone who can sandblast with a light medium. Edited February 9, 2011 by EigerSA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted February 9, 2011 Share When you finished sanding, take it to a powder coater and ask for it to be dipped, they'll charge about R50, that'll strip off the hard to reach places. As for spraying, you'll have to find someone who can sandblast with a light medium. Im taking to Custom Craft in Pinetown tomorrow, hopefully they could shed some light on it too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grebel Posted February 9, 2011 Share You can get it custom sprayed by a guy called Fazil in Pinetown (He is in Gasoline Alley to be more specific) Friend had his done. He was quoted R1500 and he would airbrush the decals as well. I think the R1500 covers any design you like. Alternatively you can get the frame anodised at Photofabricators in Williams Rd in Durban. They did my handlebars. Came out really nice. I would be careful with sandblasting. Rather get it bead blasted or if you can find somebody to do soda blasting that would be first prize. Edited February 9, 2011 by Grebel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTRacing Posted February 9, 2011 Share Trix knows her onions. 0725111235 Edited February 9, 2011 by GTRacing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted February 9, 2011 Share You can get it custom sprayed by a guy called Fazil in Pinetown (He is in Gasoline Alley to be more specific) Friend had his done. He was quoted R1500 and he would airbrush the decals as well. I think the R1500 covers any design you like. Alternatively you can get the frame anodised at Photofabricators in Williams Rd in Durban. They did my handlebars. Came out really nice. I would be careful with sandblasting. Rather get it bead blasted or if you can find somebody to do soda blasting that would be first prize. Yeah, thats the same guy from Custom Craft. He gave me a verbal price of R350- R450 for the fork, which seems pretty reasonable, no fancy artwork, just two colours(all black with red bits), I'll supply the marzocchi decals. Im taking it to him tomorrow so will find out more stuff, he said for a whole between R1k to R10k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grebel Posted February 10, 2011 Share Yeah, thats the same guy from Custom Craft. He gave me a verbal price of R350- R450 for the fork, which seems pretty reasonable, no fancy artwork, just two colours(all black with red bits), I'll supply the marzocchi decals. Im taking it to him tomorrow so will find out more stuff, he said for a whole between R1k to R10k. He does the majority of custom paint in the custom car and bike circles. He is VERY good. If he does your work, I am sure that you won't be sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caerus Posted February 12, 2011 Share I want to get new rotors as well, this is where the problem lies, the HOPE C2 brakes I have use a 165mm rotor, would it be ok to use a 160mm ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grebel Posted February 12, 2011 Share I don't think that will work as your 160mm rotor will sit 2,5mm lower than the 165mm rotor at the pad. Once your pad wears by the thickness of your rotor, no more brakes i.e. pad faces will be touching... Edited February 12, 2011 by Grebel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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