Frame Restoration

[Caerus]

@CAERUS

 

The marks are oxidisation. Pinholes in the clearcoat eventually allow air and moisture to get in between the cc and the ali. It then worms its way around. Quite a cool pattern actually.

 

If you are going to sand, the choice of grit is up to you.

 

You have two options.

1.Strip, sand and clearcoat (have a bodyshop do a good 2K clear)

2.Take the frame to a powdercoater. They will strip the clearcoat in an acid bath, and can then coat to the colour of your choice. I am having one done at the moment.

 

For option 2 you need to put in a bit of masking etc. effort.

Remove ALL bolts etc from the frame. Knock out headset cups. Ensure that all weld vent holes are open. ie not clogged with paint or dirt.

If your headtube is faced you can avoid re-facing by masking after they have dipped and prepped frame (before the powder is applied)

For your BB shell you will need 2 plate washers of slightly larger OD than BB shell -45mm will do)

A length of threadbar to suit the diameter of the centre hole (8/10mm) and 2 DOME nuts.

Place a plate washer either side of the BB shell. Threadbar through cut to size and nut either side to clamp. This keeps powder off the face and out of the threads.

 

I have them strip, then I collect and mask, or just do it there.

 

There are clear powders available, put the prep dipping usually leaves marking on the ali which does not look too cool. But speak to your local powdercoaters.

 

NB ONE THING. Powdercoaters who coat STEEL more often than aluminium have the ovens set to a higher temp. There is a posible danger that this can affect welding and even ali tube. A PC who works largely in ali would be best.

 

For your FORK you will have to do this by hand. I strip the fork completely (time for service!)

Remove the dust wipers. Then sand with waterpaper, hang lowers upsidedown using wire hooks through the bolt holes at the bottom, and then use rattle can HAMMERITE. Colours are limited though. White, Black, and used to be red, but have not seen it lately. You can spray HAMMERITE using a standard s/gun, in which case you can select tin colours. I find that it is more hard wearing than other paints. Only downside is that you will have to A. Do all 4 fine coats at once. +-15min intervals

B. You have to wait at least a week before working with it, as the HR takes time to cure. Any sooner and it marks. Even with finger pressure!

 

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks for that Could you recommend anyone that does powder coating or spraying somewhere in KZN(durbs) that has done this kind of work before? I will do all the prep work(sanding, masking etc etc) Maybe you could help me out?

If you dont mind me asking, are you involved in the cycling industry?

[The Drongo]

Thanks for that Could you recommend anyone that does powder coating or spraying somewhere in KZN(durbs) that has done this kind of work before? I will do all the prep work(sanding, masking etc etc) Maybe you could help me out?

If you dont mind me asking, are you involved in the cycling industry?

 

No Prob.

 

SAFARI powdercoaters 9 Blase Rd Pinetown 031 701 6991 - Shane

I also have used EC powdercoaters off Shepstone, but a bit 'messy' of late.

 

Or contact Shaun at BMX Direct 083 238 0919. He can also arrange.

 

Am not in the cycling industry but have been buying, building, wrecking since BB height.

I do component design, 3D capture and modelling.

 

Enjoy.

[Caerus]

No Prob.

 

SAFARI powdercoaters 9 Blase Rd Pinetown 031 701 6991 - Shane

I also have used EC powdercoaters off Shepstone, but a bit 'messy' of late.

 

Or contact Shaun at BMX Direct 083 238 0919. He can also arrange.

 

Am not in the cycling industry but have been buying, building, wrecking since BB height.

I do component design, 3D capture and modelling.

Enjoy.

 

Nice, my type of work. Thats pretty much what I used to do in London. can you send me a PM for your business website if possible. Im very interested in seeing what stuff you model.

[Lotus]

Any spraypainter will be able to do a clearcoat job. However, frame painting is best taken to a specialist or, you take on the job of masking it. Panelbeaters don't think much of putting K2 on BB threads and inside headset seats.

 

To paint the fork, the best results can be had by first stripping the fork. The slider should ideally go to the painter completely stripped of all seals, fittings etc. Do mask the brake posts nicely so that you don't have to scrape paint off there afterwards. Dont get paint inside the seal glands. When painting the crown, don't forget to remove the crown race and do mask the steerer perfectly, right up to where it meets the crown.

 

Put lots of effort into the preparation and don't leave anything that requires intelligence for the painter to do.

 

If I may add something here (I've sprayed my own frames FWIW):

The easiest and most effective way to protect threads is to put Prestik into the smaller holes, such as brake mounts, dropout hanger, etc. Don't forget the holes for the bottle cages!

Regarding the BB area, I first take the frame to my LBS and have the frame refaced, then while it's nice and clean I put masking tape on and cut it clean around the frame (less chance for it to be dragged off). For the head tube I put tape around the inside top and bottom, same for the seat tube. That way the spray doesn't build up a ridge around the edges.

 

As Johan says, don't leave it all up to the painter. And remember, the best paint job can't hide bad preparation. Make sure all scratches (including sanding marks) are completely removed. Wet the area and hold it up to the light to make sure.

[EigerSA]

No Prob.

 

SAFARI powdercoaters 9 Blase Rd Pinetown 031 701 6991 - Shane

I also have used EC powdercoaters off Shepstone, but a bit 'messy' of late.

 

Or contact Shaun at BMX Direct 083 238 0919. He can also arrange.

 

Am not in the cycling industry but have been buying, building, wrecking since BB height.

I do component design, 3D capture and modelling.

 

Enjoy.

 

I second this, Safari were helpful and pretty affordable I thought.

[Caerus]

Just spoke to my bike mechanic, he says the powder coat option for the Marzocchi Bomber forks is not viable, as I wont be able get the stanchions out, which cant go into the oven for baking with the rest of the fork. Is there a reason why this stanchion cant come out? Surely if it was built up it can be taken apart. Will the seals & bushes etc etc all be ok to be put back, or should I order some new ones?

 

 

So my question is, is it ok or a good idea to get the fork sprayed?

[Guest Big H]

Just spoke to my bike mechanic, he says the powder coat option for the Marzocchi Bomber forks is not viable, as I wont be able get the stanchions out, which cant go into the oven for baking with the rest of the fork. Is there a reason why this stanchion cant come out? Surely if it was built up it can be taken apart. Will the seals & bushes etc etc all be ok to be put back, or should I order some new ones?

 

 

So my question is, is it ok or a good idea to get the fork sprayed?

 

Which Bomber do you have. I have a old Bomber 3 fork that I have serviced myself. I have the manual in Pdf somewhere. I downloaded it from the Marzocchi webite. If you cannot find the manual PM your email and I can send it to you. I have replaced bushings, seals and fitted stiffer springs for Tandem use. I also added aircaps.

[Caerus]

Which Bomber do you have. I have a old Bomber 3 fork that I have serviced myself. I have the manual in Pdf somewhere. I downloaded it from the Marzocchi webite. If you cannot find the manual PM your email and I can send it to you. I have replaced bushings, seals and fitted stiffer springs for Tandem use. I also added aircaps.

 

I'm pretty sure they are the Z2 Bomber ,80mm travel(2002). Not sure if the manuals you have are going to relate to them? Any idea why they say the stanchions cant come out? Would you think I could find a manual for it on their website?

[TYGA]

Would a powder coated frame have better resistance against aluminium corrosion than one that has been factory painted? I've had frame corrosion on a few painted aluminium bikes in the past but just got one which has been factory powder coated...wondering if I'm going to sweat this one to pieces too...

[Caerus]

Ive contacted Marzocchi directly, they forwarded the message to Johan Bornman. So I'll see who replies first. The strange thing is, is that I cant even find my fork or any info relating to it anywhere on the Marzocchi website, doh.

[Guest Big H]

I'm pretty sure they are the Z2 Bomber ,80mm travel(2002). Not sure if the manuals you have are going to relate to them? Any idea why they say the stanchions cant come out? Would you think I could find a manual for it on their website?

 

I was a little confused, I did not have my coffee yet.

 

I had a manual somewhere that showed step by step dismantling instruction and servicing including bushing and selas replasement of the Bomber fork. I will continue to search for it. I have the 08 and 07 Marzocchi user manuals. They will not help much.

 

PM Johan, he may be able to help.

[Johan Bornman]

Just spoke to my bike mechanic, he says the powder coat option for the Marzocchi Bomber forks is not viable, as I wont be able get the stanchions out, which cant go into the oven for baking with the rest of the fork. Is there a reason why this stanchion cant come out? Surely if it was built up it can be taken apart. Will the seals & bushes etc etc all be ok to be put back, or should I order some new ones?

 

 

So my question is, is it ok or a good idea to get the fork sprayed?

 

 

Get the fork resprayed. The stanchions come out.

 

I suggest stripping the fork completely (or have it done) before sending the slider in for repainting. Replacing the parts will also see to it that you get your fork serviced, since you'll put new oil, o-rings and seals in as well.

 

I have some Marzocchi decals if you are interested.

[Caerus]

Get the fork resprayed. The stanchions come out.

 

I suggest stripping the fork completely (or have it done) before sending the slider in for repainting. Replacing the parts will also see to it that you get your fork serviced, since you'll put new oil, o-rings and seals in as well.

 

I have some Marzocchi decals if you are interested.

 

 

Thanks for that, so respray over powdercoated. So is my mechanic talking bs about the stanchions not coming out? Weird that. Is it easy enough to strip it? Not sure If ill have all the correct tools, are they any tools I will specifically need? What is the slide part, and are there spares available locally, or do I need to shop overseas? Ive included a pic of the bike, not sure if you can see the forks 100% though.

 

Thanks for the email Johan, I'll have a look for the serial no, I'll have to go to the bike shop to have a look for it, I'll also take better pics. Would I be able to get spares from you if needed for the fork, seals & bushes.

Edited January 20, 2011 by Caerus

[Guest Big H]

One thing to remember is NOT to remove the old V-Brake studs, they hold the fork in alignment. Why do I know that..... do not ask!!!!!!

 

Go and look here at tools you may need.....

 

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/SearchResults.aspx?Search=marzocchi&Page=2&SortBy=Category

 

I got me the oil seal press. It was all I needed to service mine.

[Caerus]

One thing to remember is NOT to remove the old V-Brake studs, they hold the fork in alignment. Why do I know that..... do not ask!!!!!!

Go and look here at tools you may need.....

 

http://www.chainreac...SortBy=Category

 

I got me the oil seal press. It was all I needed to service mine.

 

 

I have to ask, thats like putting the cookie jar in front of a fat kid, and telling him he can have only one cookie. I was thinking of filing them back a bit, so not a good idea then.

[Guest Big H]

Go and look here......

 

http://www.windwave.co.uk/documents/techinfo/marzocchitechinfo.html

 

Also Google servicing marzocchi bomber forks ....... Dure you will find what you need there