rubbing pads

[zerocalves]

reailgnmnet is simple, just unscrew the caliper 70% of the way so you can wiggle it. Then get someone to hold the brake lever tight while you screw the calipers back on.

Thanks will check it after my ride tomorrow morning. don't wanna mess too much with it before I ride in case i screw something seriously up

[covie]

Not much to screw up there mate also if you realign the calipers and it makes a worse noise that means that the pads are out of alignment inside the caliper or the rotor is wobbled in which case go to your lbs immediatly.

[MattyG]

reailgnmnet is simple, just unscrew the caliper 70% of the way so you can wiggle it. Then get someone to hold the brake lever tight while you screw the calipers back on.

amen to that thats what i did to mine..just unscrew the caliper enough so it can move..then spin the wheel and while its spinning..move the caliper around until you hear its not touching..then maak hom vas..

[zerocalves]

amen to that thats what i did to mine..just unscrew the caliper enough so it can move..then spin the wheel and while its spinning..move the caliper around until you hear its not touching..then maak hom vas..

cool, thanks to all who advised me.

[Johan Bornman]

I just bought a bike with hydraulic disc brakes (Juicy 3.5) and the front squeaks up a storm, clearly the pads rubbing against the disc. When I seat the wheel before tightening the quick release clamp, the wheel spins true and there is no visible warp on the disc itself. However, when I tighten the QR and then spin the wheel, there is a faint rubbing. On the bike and cycling with normal application of the brakes, it gets worse and the squeaking becomes really irritating. (not to mention in the back of my mind I know I am having to work slightly harder to progress along) Anyone experienced this and been able to sort it? Thanks for reading.

 

I think herein lies a problem too.

 

Wheels and rear derailers that change behaviour when you tighten a quick release spells trouble. This could mean one of several things including:

• 
   
  
• The frame drop-outs are not aligned.
  
• The hanger is bent.
  
• The wheel axle is bent
  

 

In your case it sounds as if the drop-outs are not aligned and as you tighten the QR, the frame flexes to line up with the parallel jamb nuts on the wheel. This also bends the axle, since the axle and frame now accommodate each other. An axle that bends like that is bound to break eventually. it will also prematurely wear the bearings.

 

Have a competent bike shop that has a frame alignment tool look at your frame. You can inspect it yourself by standing behind the bike and manipulating the QR lever. Usuaully the jockey moves around when you tighten the QR. This is a sure sign.

Edited January 2, 2011 by Johan Bornman

[Jaco-fiets]

Im a pain in the ass when it comes to rubbing dis pads. I read a tip in bicycling mag once which states: Loosen caliper; put a bussines card at each side between rotor and pad and tighten caliper again. Works every time!

 

If this does not sort it out, your dropout is bent

[Wyatt Earp]

Im a pain in the ass when it comes to rubbing dis pads. I read a tip in bicycling mag once which states: Loosen caliper; put a bussines card at each side between rotor and pad and tighten caliper again. Works every time!

 

If this does not sort it out, your dropout is bent

What would a dropout have to do with the disc brake ?

[Jaco-fiets]

If dropout is bent the wheel might not be aligned and therefor adjusting the caliper alignment might not be sufficient. Anyway its just a idea. The bussines card thing normally does the trick

[zerocalves]

What would a dropout have to do with the disc brake ?

I changed the fork/shock and still have the same problem....