techguy

You can use ANY shimano Hollowtech 2 BB with Any Shimano Hollowtech 2 crankset. I have used a Dura Ace BB with an LX crankset before...

It Doesn't need to bottom out to cause this, a sidewall hit can cause this as well,

Thank you Dangle, it comes back to my point where these manufaturer's spend hundreds and thousands on r+d,why spend all this money if some plonkers on the hub say that full sussers waste energy? We should all go back to riding fully rigid boneshakers if the consensus on the hub says suspension wastes too much energy...

Highly unlikely...in this case I wouldn't even bother. Again we can open up the can of worms where a tyre may be cheaper, but now if you had bought it locally the chance of them at least entertaining some form of claim would've been good.

I have seen this on numerous brands of tyres, it can result of a hard hit, sealant "eating" the compound, bad manufacture etc, try to see if Omnico will help you out, but don't hold your breath...

Bulls won the Epic on a hard tail but the world champs were won on a full suss...Sea otter was won on a 29er does that mean that 29ers don't work as well? The Kenyans ALMOST won the joberg2c...2nd place is the first loser... To Cyclequip...

The whole thing boils down to marketing hype, you'll make ANY full suss bob if you pedal in squares. Besides the whole assumption that a full suss robs you of power comes from the early 90's when the suspension designs were k@k and they had things like the unified rear triangle where the whole drivetrain and rear wheel was separated from the main frame, the problem with this was that the saddle height changed when the suspension moved.

couldn't tell...

When to lock out the suspension...

I have not replaced discs unless they have been damaged by a stick getting caught in them or warped by overheating. Most dics have a minimum thickness, so a simple measurement with a vernier caliper should give a close enough reading, then most manufacterers will either print the min thickness on the disc or they'll have it in the spec sheets online. I have had the same discs on my bikes for at least two years now with no noticable wear. Short answer is not often...

Basically JB by your dodging my question about your background it proves to me that you are truly a 2nd hand cell phone sales man... The truth is its the same as the 29er debate, it doesn't matter how many facts and physics you throw into the argument the average buyer of a bike will ask the question "is it better and will it work?" the simple answer is Yes. Why do you think brands like Specialized, Trek to name two spend hundreds of thousands of dollars developing full suss designs and market them? Because they are better. And while they fit them with shocks that have a platform function it's because thats what the market dictates and if they didn't spec them with a Fox RP23 for example they wouldn't sell the same number, not because the system needs it. Thats a fact.

Have one, I still run it with the brain all the way off...

Haha Dangle... JB I don't know why you think I'm trying to discredit you, I never mentioned your name or quoted you...If read my opening statement I said I was opening a can of worms, as this topic has been discussed in length several times before, If I were to ask you your background what would your answer be? I am stating mine to give some sort of insight as to say I like to think I know what I'm talking about. I think your approach is a "BS baffles brains" trying to make things so complicated that not even you understand what you are saying. NOW I'm discrediting you!

OOOOh anyone for popcorn? hows this for a switchback? More facts thanks Bushie...

If you really wanna shake a tree the a chainsaw works. when the tree hits the ground it shakes a lot.

I'm gonna leave the debate there, as a motor mech and also worked on and tuned suspensions for race cars I like to think I learnt a couple of things. I have a full suss bike, and for those who argue that you loose power etc have obviously never ridden a full suss...

have you checked all the bolts are tight?

The relation to cars and motorbikes is very relevant as the car/bike does squat when accelerating its one thing that designers take very seriously as it affects traction, which in turn affects acceleration. most bicycle designs are designed so that when accelerating the rear wheel digs in and creates more traction but still following the ground's profile so with the wheel locked out it bounces off the high spots and looses traction. So, (yes it is personal preferance/riding style), why ride a full suss and lock out the suspension?

If the BB shell is 68mm (which I think it is) then the 2 pacers go on the drive side and the one goes on the non-drive side. If the shell is 73mm then only ONE spacer goes on the driveside and nothing on the non-drive side...

I have to agree with Muddee....

why have suspension and then lock it out? do you lock out the suspension on your car/motorbike? I have just opened up a can of worms...the "power loss" is still there on cars and motorbikes so imagine how much more efficient the engines could be if we locked the suspension!

Unless the dude thought you were asking for Juicy 7's which have been discontinued...

They are in their 2010 catalouge so I doubt this is the case, The agents are Cape Cycle Systems on 0217613528...

he was stripping... Ya at teazehers! Haha... but in all seriousness it takes me 30min to strip a bike down...

I Rekin there's a shop or individual here on the hub getting the bikes stolen, stripping and rebuilding the various frames and components and selling them on...think about it...I could strip and rebuild 4-5 bikes a day and sell the stuff on the hub - who's going to question me as to where I'm getting the stuff? Who knows the serial no. on their frame? I don't, so I could sell you your own bike back to you with XT components instead of XTR....