techguy

There is nothing wrong with the hub's design if you service it at regular intervals, same as any other component...the problem is most people/shops see it as a "sealed bearing" hub and therefore needs no servicing until its too late as in this case...

You can paint carbon any colour your heart desires. You only need to "rough" up the existing coat to apply a new coat, however considering that paint = weight then the more you strip off the better. Don't know the WC area...

Hand crafted? I think not, they are all built by robots...You can get blue loctite from Mica, Midas, Builders Warehouse, Autozone, Bearing man basically any hardware shop worth their peas...

Considering Sram has revamped their entire range this is a bit of a wet fart, the main difference is another shifter,chainrings and cassette, nothing else has really changed noticably...I'm talking about cosmetics here...

Fit the XT blades you won't have a problem...

why you freewheeling? you should be pedalling!

Whats wrong is that they're american spastic wheels, just kidding, just get a new axle you don't need a new hub...

Bos have a look at PMP for the rings you want they do a complete kit... http://www.pmpbike.net/bike.php/p-6x41x299/Bike_Chain-Rings.htm

bearing man don't stock ceramic bearings. they are specil order only.

Carbon does not degrade! in any form or means, yes it fatigues but given an alu frame may have a lifespan of maybe 5yrs a carbon frame will last 10yrs or longer taken there's no external damage. most brands offer a "time limited" waranty because the technology advances at such a rate that after that time period that frame may be so redundant it won't be worth keeping.

I lied the BCD is 120mm not 102mm just saw it on a press release from Sram...

I think the pink suits him...

You should be able to use a short cage, just make sure you stay away from the big ring and 3 largest sprockets at the same time and you'll never have hassles.

I'm behind Juan even tho he's competition, Dude never do favours, charge for everything as a "favour" will always go sour, then this mac dude can complain about bad service that he's paying for....We are all human and we all make mistakes and this kind of stuff always p+sses on my battery...

Im with you 100% and it costs a arm and a leg to replace. ups to SRAM for that. I meen one could probably pop a BBB blade on that new XO and It wouldnt look out of place. Actually ONLY Sram rings will work on there as they have made their own BCD being 102mm so at the moment no other rings will fit...

The BEST pulley wheels are those made by the groupset manufacturer like Mampara says, the KCNC and others are always a compromise cuz they made to fit many variables and thus can cause hassles...

Its essentially the same as the Future shock from specialized, they've revalved it so there is a compression damping more than the old lockout.

Generally you can use a short cage on a hard tail (if you don't cross chain too much) and a long cage on a full suss to allow for chain "growth" when the suspension moves...the other explainations are also true, on a road bike the only need for a long cage RD is if you are running a triple crankset to allow for the jumps between the rings. A steerer tube's length is determined by your setup and the stack height of the head set and the depth of the stem and spacers. Basically if you buy a new fork set it up to your previous handle bar height and then cut the steerer 3-5 mm below the top of the stem, If you are buying a "pre-owned" fork the make sure it'll match your current set up.

It was an alu steerer fork made for roubaix, and if you watch the footage, you'll see poor George sitting up with his hadlebars in his hands and then crashing, according to reports he also radioed his team car and told them there was something loose and got told to change his bike after that cobbled section. If I had half as much experince as Julien I would be very happy...to have over 50 years of experience on the pro circuit means he's a very sought after man... I have seen locally forks that have failed below the stem not at the top of the fork as one would assume...

Didn't Cancellara break a wheel? I know he did, whereas Boonen didn't...Inflexible=break. In fact Julien Devriese (Radioshacks head mechanic) blames Hincapie's broken steerer (remember that?) on the fact he was riding carbon wheels...Saxo Bank tested tyre pressures as low as 5Bar on the cobbles to see the advantages/disadvantages http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/paris-roubaix-tech-what-wins-hell-of-the-north-25686

each lever controls a caliper and the lever pushes the outer housing away from the lever hence activating the brakes

Saying that Cancellara doesn't give a hoot is a laugh, these guys take their equipment very seriously. All tubbies are "aged" in the pro circuit, and the box rims have more "give" in them so that the tyre is less likely to snakebite, and what wheels was cancellara on at flanders and roubaix? carbon zipp 303's...

Rubber is the best shock absorber, look at the original Austin Mini there was nothing fancy just a big block of rubber as shock absorbers, and the car is still touted as one of the best handling cars ever built! of course an insert will work... When Bonnen won he was on pretty much the same bike. I read an interview with Radioshack's head mechanic and he said the best bike for Roubaix is a standard machine, with a little more clearence for mud and old school standard wheels with spoke washers...

From what you have described it sounds like its working fine, the "brain" is an inertia valve that will open when you hit a bump, when its firm try bumping the front wheel while standing next to the bike and see how much force it takes to open the valve and adjust accordingly.

Also check they are toed in, meaning the front of the pads touches first, if the whole pad touches at once then it can cause a squeal.