techguy

Nothing new here, they have been using 'cross bikes at Roubaix for decades... Cancellara's bike was the new Roubaix Sl3 prototype, most guys have the frames modified for extra tyre clearances for the 28c tyres and in case its muddy.

Not worth the extra gadgets, Had an RP23 on my Fisher, left it open and forgot about it...

use a different expander or try coating it in Tacx carbon assembly paste...

What pads are you using? as for example the Dura Ace pads squeal whereas the Corima pads don't....

On Bike Radar they have a feature of a dude that started like you, one or two lights for friends out of his shed, now he's coining it big time distributing to the world... http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/interview-bike-light-maker-chris-hadaway--25238

Porno...

Hope is available from Grant Wallisser www.intltrade.co.za

4. Most people THINK Sram is better...I don't think its leaps and bounds ahead, it all works the same...

Just start at half way and go a turn towards open and then it will do most trails...

Get hold of Omnico, as they should have replaced the first 2 spokes that went, if not any warranty has gone, also find out what the warranty is as I know if you break 3 spokes in one of their wheels they will rebuild the wheel...

I think Mr Du Toit is your best bet...

Why not go for the Stumpjumper, more comfortable and just as quick, it'll also fair better for your weight, the Epic is an all out race machine...

Invent something...added weight

You CANNOT use DOT fluid in shimano systems only mineral oil (and olive oil doesn't work either contarary to popular belief) The shimano systems are not servicable therefore if the seals go ( VERY rare for this to happen) then replace the component. There is a strong chance that pssing on the rotor will warp it as any sudden cooling will do the same. I doubt very much that the problem is overheating, I'll go with Morewood kid's explanaton of the centrelock rotors as the steel rotor is riveted to an aluminium carrier and with age the rotor can develop play between itself and the carrier. Either that or try fitting one resin pad and one metal pad in the same caliper, it's a trick that the pro's use to get the beat of both worlds...

I think it'll take more than a bit of skimming to make it work, and there's a strong posibility of cracking the frame as where the FD sits is normally reinforced to take the load of the clamp. A 55 chainring is also a bit enthusiastic...

By your comments Manbearpig I assume you are a qualified motor vehicle mechanic with a number of years experience as I am...so you and I can understand the design of these things...

I agree with Kupe, cycling is a luxury for most of us, there is a lot of people who have to cycle to commute, but to us it's a luxury so the goods are imported as such, I have a friend who moved to Oz to "escape the crime" and guess what? his house got broken into there too! Its not just us in this predicament. One supplier asks for the serial nos when ordering parts in an attempt to stamp out grey imports but guess what? you can order spares for their products from any half decent onlilne shop...

There's no better or worse, the 11-34 has bigger jumps between the sprockets whereas the 11-32 has smaller increments between them giving a smoother transition between ratios when you shift. Also there's the added 2 teeth on the 34 which will give you a lower ratio for climbing...

I have never come across this in bikes, I agree with cars as the system gets hotter, but even a 5 year old system that I have still works perfectly. My theory is if the seals harden/go pap then the caliper will start leaking (not always though) a bit contradictory but thats me...

You've answered your own question by saying there's play in the wheel bearings, like Morewoodkid says start there and then worry about the brakes, highly unlikely as well - if the spring has some how gone missing from between the pads then the pads could be rattling around also causing the vibration. You dont say what brakes you have as each has their little traits... Start with the wheel bearings...once you've finished with those check all the spokes are tight, all relevent bolts are tight etc...

You can't, the Cannondale Hollowgram are claimed to be the lightest and stiffest, not the stiffest...it all comes down to weight, you could make a set of cranks that are by far the stiffest but may weigh 2kg's so all of them are compared by stiffness to weight...

The Retracting power comes from the elasticity of the O-ring on the piston, the spring holds the pads against the piston so by tweaking the spring a bit it may help, also take the pads out, pump the lever a few times to push the pistons ALMOST all the way out then clean and lube them, also using compressed air to clear out the gunk, then push them back in and try that.

I've gotten past being frustrated, as because where I am based now is down the road from a branch of a chain store and I can't get certain brands in because people will complain, I have also been told by a supplier that they won't supply me as they don't want to dilute their brands...?

any store worth their 2c...

An alu bolt won't solve anything, the hanger is designed to bend or break before the derailleur, same as a helmet breaks before your head, so just get a new hanger and a spare for when it happens again... If by Dale you mean Cannondale then it must be an old one cuz I had an R800 that was made in 1992 and that had a replaceable hanger...