Hermanus Cycles

could be one of many problems.If it is a squeek it is probably bearings,if it is a creak then also check the cable stops on the frame for grit and lube them with light grease.

the one on this side look like a tube. oh and ask VOLO to show us which NIPPLES she uses.

SLICKS GRIP BETTER,RAIN OR SHINE. KNOBS ARE STRICTLY FOR DIRT. MANY NOVICES THINK THAT THE KNOBS WILL GRIP THE TAR ,BUT THIS IS FAR FROM TRUE.THE KNOBS ROLL OUT WHEN CORNERING FAST AND THEN YOU SEE YOUR @SS STICK WITH SLICKS AND BE CAREFUL.

Bringing your bikes? lets go riding?

I like J.B.'s answer best. plain and to the point. You other okes just like the sound of your key-boards.

The question is about a roadbike that has developed flex,I am sure it has.But the agents for said frame recon it is not possible. Very difficult to gauge this kind of thing? JB whats you take on this?

I am in the main road.Next to Zebra Crossing.

1do carbon frames flex more with age? 2 3 4 5 6 7

actualy,one of my customers also farms in that area,with avo and such,you might even know him,Nick Humman.Not a serious cyclist,but they come down to Hermanus for the Argus every year.

I agree with JB,ti is not ideal for bike frames,unless you are small and light,the stuff flexes like bamboo.And yes ally can be made much lighter for much less. I have also heard Ti owners mutter"this frame will last forever" so who wants a frame that will survive a nuclear war?

I learnt to service both front and rear shox on the fox tech site ca't remember what the adress is but sure you can find it if you try. These forks and shox are simple to change oils and seals.But when dampers give hassles you will need to send it in. Order the seals and oils from your LBS and If they wont help you,I will.

Oh and Q20 is not good for any bike use. It is made for skweaky hinges and rusty locks. Always use cycle specific lubes.

The oil on the chains out the box is no good for riding,remove it before fitting,then dose your chain with squirt,rock&roll or pedros. wait till the lube dries before riding,else it all just m@*rs off.

35 and as much as possible.

no not green locktite. the the locktite 603 is designed to make loose fitting bearings fit better,you put a few drops where the bearing will fit, then insert the bearing till it stops ,re-fit the spacers and bolts but do not put weight on the bike for 24 hours. You are correct in saying that the bearing determines where things sit and align.the spacers and bolt just join to the bearing and the rocker....so if bearing is loose in frame,you will have movement,which is no good.

I might be wrong,but I think the sleves and stainless bolts you fitted are not the correct fit.I would advise fitting the alloy bolt and new bearing + spacer between stay and rocker link. You also need to check if the bearing in the stay is tight fitting ,if not you need to sort it with locktite 603.This is not normal locktite that we all know...it is a retaining compound app. R250.00 for 100 ml. The anthem suspesion is great when it works ,but when things go wrong,you need to know where to find the clicks and squeeks. Good luck.

dont think we will ever see those pics

ANTHEMBOY,WHO SERVICED YOUR SHOCK. CHECK THE INVOICE DID THEY CHARGE YOU FOR REDUCERS AND/OR DU BUSHINGS?

a ti ring or carbon? 20niner2009-10-08 01:33:50

ride the eastons all the time and sell the ultegras,use the spare cash to spoil the future mrs.kansas.

no lube on that bushing,that is the teflons job,if the reducers that are inserted into the bushing can be removed by hand or worse, if they just fall out,the bushing needs replacement.if you replace the bushing and the reducers are still loose then replace the reducers too. the bushing is normally the one to go first.

BORRIZ, I HAVE NOT HAD ANY OF THE ANTHEM X FRAMES CREAKING MUCH,BUT WHAT CONCERNS ME IS THE FACT THAT THE LOWER SHOCK EYE DOES NOT HAVE DU BUSHINGS THAT ARE EASY TO REPLACE WHEN NEEDED,RATHER IT HAS ONE BIG ALLOY BOLT WITH TWO CYLINDRICAL SPACERS.I CAN ONLY THINK THAT THAT BOLT SHOULD BE REMOVED AND CLEANED AND LUBED. IF THAT FAILS TO SORT THE PROBLEM,CHECK ALL BOLTS AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT CHECK THAT REAR Q/R IS NICE AND TIGHT.

ANTHEMBOY THOSE ALLOY REDUCERS SHOULD TURN INSIDE THE DU BUSHINGS,THIS IS WHY THE BUSHINGS HAVE A TEFLON COATING ON THE INSIDE. WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE SHOCK MOUNTING BOLT IT SHOULD BE TIGHT ENOUGH THAT THE REDUCERS DON'T ACTUALLY REST ON THE BOLT.

IF THAT BOLT HAS BROKEN OR LOOSENED,BE SURE TO CHECK THE DU BUSHINGS AND REDUCERS ON THE SHOCK.THEY TAKE A BEATING BECAUSE OF UN-EVEN LOAD. ARE THE BEARINGS IN GOOD CONDITION? CAN YOU TURN THE INNER PART EASILY BY HAND ? THE LITTLE SPACER RING THAT YOU MENTIONED COULD ALSO HAVE WORN DOWN A BIT,BE SURE THAT IT IS NOT TOO THIN. SNAPPING BOLTS LIKE THIS IS NOT TOO COMMON,ALTHOUGH YOU WILL FIND MANY GUYS WITH ANTHEMS THAT HAVE EXPERIENCED THE PROBLEM.THIS IS BECAUSE THERE ARE SO MANY ANTHEMS OUT THERE.