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gazzacpt

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Everything posted by gazzacpt

  1. That lower bush looks worn, not sure about the strut, but I don't think it should move that much if nothing is disconnected. Take it to a suspension specialist i reckon, or maybe someone with more knowledge than me on VAG's can chime in. Sent from my SM-A510F using Tapatalk
  2. Lekker man. Those ferrodo's are good pads but very aggressive on the rotors. Someone else suggested ATE. Thats what I use,I also have a Tazz in the driveway. You don't really need Ferrodo "performance" on a Tazz I just found it ate my rotors faster. Will probably put ATE on the bakkie to when its due for brakes later. When you change out the pads again do a light skim on the disc I can almost guarantee there will be a ridge and some scoring. Sometimes the squeal can come from the rear drums as well lots of dust hangs around in there. Sent from my SM-A510F using Tapatalk
  3. You haven't told us how old the car is or what brand you fitted. Some pads have hard spots and they squeal till you get through them, generally this is only on the cheaper pads.If you got decent rotors and pads then strip off the caliper and caliper bracket clean any rust off the bracket where it contacts the pads around the pads "ears" . Apply a small amount and I mean thin film of copperslip/copper grease/high heat grease to the areas the ears of the pads contact to caliper bracket/cradle. Make sure the pads slide in easily but not to loose. Never file a pads "ears" to try get it to fit in the cradle its most likely rust or crap built up in the cradle. Then add some of the grease in a very light film on the back of the pads where they contact the piston or caliper bracket/cradle. Make sure you have fitted the new clips/springs that came with the new pads. Don't reuse the old ones. You should have no budgies in your brakes after that. I do this at every service not just when I replace pads. Maybe I'm OCD. I can't stress enough that less is more with those copper compound grease types. They spread and get everywhere so if you dollop it on there it can find its way to the friction material and thats not what you want. If you feel vibrations then the rotor isn't seated to the hub properly or its warped. Good luck. On the newer cars you can't even do a brake bleed without a computer and a vacuum bleeder, and if it has an electronic handbrake you can't get the rear brakes off without a computer. What is this world coming to [emoji20] Sent from my SM-A510F using Tapatalk
  4. First CTCT for me 5J 09:10 start. I hope I finish [emoji12] Sent from my SM-A510F using Tapatalk
  5. I'm doing this for the first time signed up for the the 64km. Sent from my SM-A510F using Tapatalk
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