supertorro

Presenting the wife's' new steed. It started with a need for shorter cranks on her existing bike, and kind of snowballed from there. After much looking around and seeing what was available at not too steep a price, eventually built up an STF with 650b wheels. I know: that's sacrilege! Still, it kept the geometry very similar to the current bike, but just moved the front wheel further forward, essentially dropping from a 90mm to 50mm stem. A not inconsequential change. The result is a setup that she is much happier with and produced some unexpected responses. Apparently it "feels lighter to climb" and "is much easier to roll over stuff". The roll over is not unexpected, moving up from 26" wheels and older geometry. All in all a successful experiment, despite a minor OTB at the end of the day. A lot of bits were existing things lying about. Momsen STF 29 in medium Manitou Marvel Pro Magura MT4 with 180mm rotors DT Swiss E1900 Sram GX 11-speed Lyne AMP crankset 165mm Lyne Dropper Post 125mm Lyne Amp Riser bar PS: To give credit where it's due: the first frame delivered had an issue, and Momsen sorted it out without problem or fuss. You don't often find that sort of service, and it bears mentioning. Good on them

A, B and C. Faced a similar question as the OP, wanting to try a wider rim. Had the option of rebuilding existing set of DT Swiss E1900 wheels. After much deliberation and waiting on stock to arrive, went with the Hope hubs. At the same price (or as close as makes no difference), you get faster engagement. That they were being cleared out and were available was just happenstance. No difference in regard for quality from either brand.

For me the Yamaha Niken is just a solution looking for a problem

He's pretty entertaining in his own way, and that he is doing it on such a tiny bike is a brilliant dig at the Dual Sport crowd.

Sounds suspect to me. You can search for companies on the site http://www.sacompany.co.za For what its worth, Full Cicle Gym Equipment is a registered company, registered to a PO Box.

The Vitpilen + Svartpilen 701 was a serious choice for me, until I rode it. Maybe I just don't deal well with thumpers but I found the engine very lumpy and not pleasing to ride. So much so, that the test ride was literally around the block. Never had such a strong sense of dislike from the get go. The 401 however, is a laugh to ride.

separate incidents. When I get to the point that I am using a hammer and spanner simultaneously I tend to stop and have good think about what's going on. I do try to use torque wrenches when applicable, but when you're disassembling 40years worth of drunk monkey maintenance you need a little percussive persuasion. For reassembly I take the time to clean threads properly and add loctite or grease, application dependent

I learned 2 lessons recently: - don't hit your finger with the 4lb hammer. It tickles a bit - buy good tools. The cheap stuff breaks too easily

I had the same view, but I'm trying to get into the habit of cleaning, inspecting and lubing the chain once a month now (don't have a long daily commute). Following the Fort9 review on chains and chainlube and understanding that the rollers actually need lubing I figured it is a better choice. Trying out gear oil for the moment and cleaning with WD-40 and/or prepsol, depending on the level of dirt in there. Found aerosol lubes to be irritating as I can never get it not to spray everywhere else. Have started applying with a small paint brush to encourage even spread, without excessive application

Gear oil Clean thoroughly, then apply oil to a warm chain. Make sure it you get the individual rollers going.Wipe off excess

hot damn! Kloof Nek. That is a bitch. My Aprilia had a malfunctioning MAP sensor and limp mode couldn't get over Wynberg hill. Ended being a good solid push over that, in traffic. Also didn't need the gym session afterward.

Absolutely incredible experience. Do it at least once, cost be damned.

Just finished a build with 105 group kit. Very nice. The gears change, the brakes work, the cranks go round and round. It works. Don't have another comparison or enough time with it to comment any further

You might want to elaborate on the wheelset you have that is producing said noise. I'm not familiar with a disc rotor mounted to a bottom bracket lock-ring. Bottom brackets and disc rotor are generally not involved with each other, but there's all sorts of whacky **** out there.. Maybe post some pictures. Removing the end caps is not usually any more difficult than pulling firmly, or undoing a nut or screw, but impossible to say what would apply in your case without more info. You could just take it to a bike shop. Also, maybe your disc rotor is touching the pad and emitting a squeak every now and again. I'd squeak too if I were in that position

Stolen: Stevens Vuelta 2010 When: 16 October 2018 Where: Cape Town, Western Cape Posting on behalf of brother-in-law: STEVENS Vuelta out of the garage in Heldervue, Somerset West, this morning: My dog almost got the guy, but the road is steep and the bike is fast... Please share on social media, would be great if we could catch this guy trying to sell it! Get further details about the incident in the Stolen Bikes section