DieselnDust

will definitely drop by to pick some up for my forks wiper seals. Not sure its good for a pawled freehub though

Yes Lithium based greases can cause seals swelling or excessive softening of the rubber over time. This is generally not an issue because if the use case is bearings and hydraulic systems then it will contain seal swell control additives or use a Li Complex thickener which is less prone to cause seal swell over 1000s of hours off service life. Products like Shell Gadus V80XE00 would fall into the this category. Calcium based greases are better in this regard but quite hard to find in lower NLGI consistencies like NLGI 0 or NLGI 00, even more hard to find in small packs sizes, unless for specialized application like bicycle parts(at the associated cost)SRAM Butter is also NLGI 2 which would be to "thick" for use in a free hub. Is the Freehub fully serviceable, including replacement of the seal? If it is then the seal is a wear item and should be replaced once a year anyway, If its not replaceable then you're better off with using what the hub manufacturer recommended. Or give these guys a call and ask for calcium based NLGI 0 or 00 grease https://lubeline.co.za/pages/contact-us-western-cape-cape-town You can also look for Buzzy's Slick Honey, Rock Shox Dynamic Seal grease (NLGI 0) but they're expensive

Live or do you want the highlights package?

I get the sentiment but that external cable housing will have to be replaced about once per year with the cable. It’s not about the housing wearing but rather water ingress. With water comes dirt. Even though the cable movement is not required to be exact like a derailleur, dirt and water does cause corrosion which makes it’s harder to actuate the lever. not all bikes are have easy cable routing though. Some require removal of the rear swing arm to get access to the cable ports at the back of the BB so it’s not always an easy 1hr job. I won’t even mention those with headset cable routing. In most cases it’s a half a day job where the main pivot bearings and bb bearings might as well be replaced at the same time and headset bearings if cable routing goes through that abominable area

Probably the same perps. They will keep going till someone stops them

haven't watched it yet.

Molykote P-40 Metal-Free Paste (adhesive/corrosion resistance), Molykote P-1042 (adhesive grease paste), and Molykote D Paste. these seem to be equivalents Molykote suggests

why do you want to use this? It has a LOT of tackifier in it which when exposed to water will create a sticky paste in a freehub.

Suit yourself. You do you and I’ll do with my 30years of petrochemical engineering and tribology. I'll expand on why light oils are poor choices for modern freehubs though... The Mavic freehub is in two parts. The inner section that stays on the hub has 2 wide pawls arranged at 180 degrees to each other. The freehub has a long interface with drive section of the freehub and it has a labyrinth seal that interfaces with the hubs seal. This seal keeps oil inside and dirt out. The freehub also has a lubricant trap that is a groove that runs around the circumference of the freehub and allows oil to flow from one pawl to the other. The toothed ring the pawls interact with has deep troughs, unlike high engagement hubs that have drive rings with very shallow troughs (teeth) in order to increase the number of engagement points. This also means that the pawl springs have to be strong to hold the pawls down so they can engage with the drive ring. friction force = Force x mu. Strong springs = higher friction forces. Light oils under high pressure will flow away from the pressure. In the Mavic hub the pawl springs are weaker and the lubricant trap ensures the oil flows back to a pawl. Despite this, Mavic hubs are notorious for a pawl jam, especially if they have not had a regular service. Water gets in and displaces the oil. Shimano freehubs use a light grease. Servicing with a light mineral oil is just a stop gap to replace oil that has leached out of the grease. Eventually you will have to strip down , clean and reapply NGLI 00 grease because this is the only effective way of keeping water away from the pawls anchor point and preventing oil flowing out of the hub

any lithium soap NLGI 0 or 00 grease will be fine. Avoid oils with low ISO viscosity numbers like Shimano mineral oil brake fluid as this will require frequent servicing. Mavic hubs usually only have two engagement pawls so the oil isn't being worked very hard. This should work: https://www.greyhoundlubricants.co.za/product/greyhound-grease-li-ep00-500g/?srsltid=AfmBOoqtmzNHRb0Fb5wCtxrMyYplPFWhdEoZ0Hfw1a4a5sa8x99KLRl8

R1 was chambered for the NATO Std 7.6m calibre x 2inch round R4 and R5 were dedicated to 5.56mm IIRC

they do but its not very popular and its an absolute brink in terms of weight. Even the New Reverb is lighters by some margin. Having subsequently checked their website again I noticed Lyne is using a similar airspring cartridge to OneUp in the their e-Contour post which has actually dropped some weight making it very competitive with other posts plus they have made some changes to the brass pins which has alsmost eliminated the side to side slop they develop. At Sub R10k I'd take a look at it again actually

Smash and Grabber Shot and killed by their victim at jakes gervil. One small victory for a man, one giant victory for justice

That is not the Ironman way.

Its a good post but yes expensive and the service costs are too