MudLark

Both casette and chain are new in this case. But thank you.

Good one.

1. Yes but will check it also again. 2. I have no idea. Used bike I bought about a year back. I wonder if this could be it. Cheap enough to change.

Good point. I think so but will check it again.

Hi guys, I have a bit of an odd issue I'm trying to figure out with a Dura Ace RD. I have it on an older Spez Diverge with a 2x11 setup and a Rapide derailleur hanger extender. I'm not the world's most experienced bike mechanic but I have set up a lot Shimano RD's without issues. Anyway, setting up this RD correctly on a bike stand, everything works as it should on the stand. But when on the smallest sprocket (and this only happens on the smallest sprocket) and only when under power/load, the chain will intermittently try to climb up to number 10 sprocket and then immediately drop off; it seems to only just catch every now and then -msay every 10 or 20 pedal strokes. For some reason I just can't seem to get it quite right. Leaving aside the usual advice about fine tuning the derailleur adjustment, is there something else relatively common or known to happen that I might be overlooking? TIA!

The battery lasts a very long time if its a good quality battery. I put one in in mid to late 2020. Just replaced it this past week. And yes, I do ride the bike a few thousand kms a year. And you can get decent Litium ones for just under R20 a pop.

You can also just polish and wipe them shiny with good old Nugget black. But of all the things I need to do in this world, polishing tyres isn't one of them. YMMV.

You do get pedals that are flats one side, clipless the other, if that helps. I have a pair lying around somewhere. Shimano IIRC.

They don't care. But to be sure, if I find a similar competive product, I'm gone from Garmin forever.

Same thing different colour wrong angle....

One really has to wonder about Garmin South Africa's service sometimes. I have both a Varia light and a radar which I've had for about five years. Both are in perfect working condition, other than for the fact that the battery life has become somewhat shorter than it should be. I email Garmin and ask them about possibly replacing the batteries or exchanging the units on some basis or another and enquire about the likely cost. In response I get a canned message from one Thato which tells me nothing other than that I must send them the units. I write back to him and tell him that what I really want to know is what the associated cost will be (I'm trying to work out whether it makes more sense to simply buy new units). The gentleman in question tells me by return that they are not allowed to provide a price until their technical people have inspected the items. Not entirely ideal because one needs to get the items to them so they can deal with the items, and you can then understand what the options are. Having no choice, I trek across to them eventually. Get to the eighth floor service department. Lovely chat with the young lady behind the desk. She explains to me that if they are found still be good working order, they will offer me new ones at a 30% discount (which is not really 30% because I can get the things a fair bit cheaper from some of their dealers, but nevertheless). So much for what Thato told me…. I ask how long it will take for them to inspect the items. About 10 working days. I explain that that means that there are two weeks during which I will not be able to ride my bike as I ride in the dark of morning. I then suggest I buy the new units at full price and if following their inspection, they are happy, they can just refund me the 30% difference. I'm told that's unworkable. I put the items in my pocket and leave, wondering what other brand I could switch to instead.

If you're using a pressure washer on your bike, that may be the issue. It's the same reason one should avoid pressure washers in car engine bays etc. - they push water past seals with exactly these consequences.

Just spray it on. It's different to the normal lubes. You will see when you use it. It dries very fast and leaves a very thin film. A can lasts quite a long time.

I suspect that your answer lies in the product liability provisions in the Consumer Protection Act.

Some things: It's fundamentally an inflammatory disease. Check and think about what you eat and how it affects your asthma. If you manage your diet carefully you may improve things significantly. You may even manage with no meds, Some foods are very pro-inflammatory and some are pretty anti. Fasting is a great way to manage inflammation downwards. Get your weight down, Weight is an inflammation driver. Fat is an organ, not just an energy storage facility. What Diesel said. The higher your VO2 Max the less you'll have asthma. Nobody has mentioned Singulaire. Apparently it doesn't work for everyone (something about genetics) but if its works for you its da bomb. You'll breathe free and easy like you won't believe it. You pop one daily. You'll need a script. The generic MonteAir is just as good as the OEM. Before a really hard ride, a few mg of prednisone or similar can help a lot. You'll need a script. Be consistent in the use of your corticosteroid inhaler. Maybe this will help someone.

How old are you now?

Lots of nutrition options but what works for one doesn't work for another. For me, depending upon ride and distance: bananas, potatoes, sandwiches, pancakes or USN Muscle Fuel in the water bottle. I like the USN a lot but don't use it really unless I'm riding hard and long.

At the age of 54 I was trying to beat Strava downhill times on a MTB in some places where I ride. It was fun. Now that I'm 58, I think "Hmmm... I'd like to ride this again tomorrrow. No need to go like absolute hell today." And now I almost never fall.

Can do sometime. Will need to give it a wash first though. A bit dirty after this morning's ride. Which reminds me that I need to go lubes chains if I want to ride tomorrow morning again.

Hi guys, Could find a better place in the forums for this query. I have a 2016 Spez Diverge I am thinking of parting company with and am looking for an indication of market value. Details are: Condition: Very good but not mint. It shows some use. Carbon Comp Frame. Wheels are Roval Carbon wheels on Roval hubs. Tyres are Conti Speed KIng 35mm but good Spez Road tyres are also available with the bike. Deraillers and shifters are Dura Ace 9000. Some scuff marks and clearly used but all works as it should. Spez Carbon cranks. Spez saddle with carbon rails. Spez cobble gobbler seat post (carbon also I think). Whole bike comes in at almost exactly 8kg. Its a very fast bike to ride. A bit scary actually for a gravel bike. But its great on bad tar. TIA. ML

Thank you.

Hi guys, At the recommendation of my sports physio, I'm looking to find a podiatrist who can make up a set of orthotics (insoles) specifically for cycling and who assess the requirements while you're actually pedalling on the bike. In Gauteng. If you know of anyone who may be able to help, please let me know. Cheers, ML

Wide feet - just speak to Lake. They will help you find the right size and model for what you need. Only issue sometimes is stock. But that's a universal problem anyway.

Here is something important that will help you that not many people know. Shimano also make a 'multi-release' cleat. They are silver and are stamped wth an M. They are easier to get unlocked than the normal Shimano cleats. The multi-release cleats will release in almost any direction if you pull hard enough, unlike the standard cleats which are designed to only release with an ankle twist movement. Multi-release cleats are much easier to learn with. Use them with any Shimano SPD pedals. Set the SPD's cleat locking force as loose as possible and you you're good to go. You'll soon get used the cleats and not look back. I never use flats anymore. Haven't for years now.

Then maybe you haven't yet discovered EVO-STIK Sticks Like Sh*t (?)