RossTopher

https://www.triptychresources.co.za/bicycle-transport wouldnt bother with any other options. they are the best, and the process is fast

@EddieV when you unscrew it, do you press the pressure release valve? the foolproof method: make sure you have tight valve cores (this is in general, not just for this pump) so keep a cheap valve core tool around, many sealant bottles, valve sets and toolkits come with one. screw the hose to the valve first, snug but not overly tight, it doesnt need to be. Then screw the pump to the hose. go wild. when you're done, press the button, unscrew the pump body first, then unscrew the hose from the valve. depending on what you have, very few pumps match the lezyne ones for quality, weight, size and output, so getting anything else is a gamble in its own right.

https://online.entries.co.za/entries/findperson.aspx?pa=se&eid=5194

we have a very mixed bunch and are sitting at 11 (possibly 10 if the one warhorses injury doesnt come right). some may not finish, others may finish solo. depending on how we get split, it could be a 7 hour ride, or a 10 hour ride. its mainly about testing individuals endurance, mental strength etc, and we have no strategy or "roles". i know that doesnt sound too appealing, but we're doing it for the gees, the scenery, memories and kit. PM me if you are keen

excellent, thanks for the feedback

thank you, that helps a lot. sounds like its pretty much the same things that i like about my Bolt, but at half the price. no brainer.

@love2fly I have a friend in the market for a gps, on the lower price range. how are you, and any other people with experience enjoying the Roam V1. he mainly wants proper mapping and climb data. as far as i am aware, the Roam V1 has climb finder? he's maxed out at 4k, so its between the new Magene, the Garmin 130 and the Roam V1. I can't bring myself to recommend ANY garmin, and the 130 doesnt have the 2 features he wants, and the Magene reviews are few and far between, and not overwhelmingly positive.

You can't. Send to a friend/family member in another country and then to you, or use Aramex Global Shopper. But then you are paying double vat and higher shipping costs

As low rolling resistant as the Pirelli Gravel H is (and you wont find a bigger fan of the H or M), to do 200km of tar with them would be a waste. pop on a set of Cinturato Velo 35mm and you wont look back. tubeless, comfy, puncture resistent and good rollers. plus they look good on the wider clearance bikes. they are also more than capable (read fun) for basic off road if you want to rinse them until they're done

Before shortening the stem or finding an inline seat post, try get a Deda RHM Zero bar. They are cheap. Remember deda measure outside to outside, so their 40cm is a 38cm bar. Super short reach, shallow drop, great shape, a 38cm is fine for most men, that Raleigh probably has a super wide bar, as well as a long reach and general shape. If it's still an issue, then a slightly shorter stem, but wouldn't really go shorter than 90 on a road bike if you can avoid it

where would one find these? consider my curiosity piqued

according to 99 spokes, that ALR4 is going to have Apex 11 speed, and mechanical discs. its a great groupset, but its nearly a decade old, and 40k with cable discs - people need to be imprisoned for that. those current gen ALR's going on sale are looking great value in comparison

never used them, but i have been looking at a samsung tag. was thinking i'd tape it into my steerer or seatpost depending on size. if its for an MTB, check out the clever muc-off one that goes in your tyre heres a super handy video to remove the speaker so its not a dead giveaway for crooks

thanks Droo. I am still using the wheels, so have a disc rotor and cassette blocking any view of serial numbers etc. as mentioned, i was around 99% sure they are formula hubs, so it was mainly around what driver actually works for them. Specialized seemingly can't get stock and even online searches show very little availability globally, which makes no sense compared to how common the full wheelset is I contacted specialized and got someone to confirm they are formula, and the guy said the pawl design is slightly different so the DT 3 pawl wont work. its seems its the FH-528, code: S192100001. google searches show up a number of Canndondale and Bontrager links as well, so not sure if all 3 brands are using the same hub.

so... as the title suggests, i have a set of R470 wheels, the standard Specailized oem wheelsets that come on so many road bikes. Its got an XDR driver and i am wanting to change it to HG for a friend to use. the wheelset is currently on my bike and awaiting me buying a new wheelset, so i dont want to remove it, the cassette etc to identify the hub and figure out what driver is compatible. they're so dime a dozen, i presume many have gone down this route before. i THOUGHT these wheels Formula hubs, and its just a DT hoop, but i've also gone through bikeforums, reddit and WW before asking. and seen a couple photos that look just like a DT 3 pawl setup. anyone have any hands on insight on these wheels

How does this stack up? https://canyoncafe.co.za/products/canyon-lux-trail-cf-6-small-marketing-bike

@Chadvdw67 what is your price range? i presume you're coming from MTB side? if a road bike is a new adventure, there is NOTHING wrong with going rim brake. so many are clouded by the disc brake hype, but they'd have packed in cycling long before discs came out, if they were half as bad as people make them seem in comparison. it also depends where you are. from recent experience, JHB roads need bigger tyres but you wont suffer on 25's in CT. a comfy frame and carbon fork are key. i only recently sold my rim brake road bike and i am permanently on the hub scouring for another, because i dont want to ride my nice disc brake bike in the rain, to the shop, in dodgy areas etc. if you are going rim brake, i'd swerve the fancy carbon wheels, as you dont know how much life the brake track has, and they dont work in the wet. just stick to some nice alloy wheels. and hell, if it is awful, you just pop it back on the hub and you can probably recover your money, then wait until a disc brake option pops up.

agreed, the best tyres money can buy. if you're spending a higher % on the road, switch to the H's, or go to a 40mm. but for offroad, they are the hornets hips!

oh, i was semi-joking. i have no experience. i just recognized the brand name https://chinertown.com/index.php?topic=3926.0

Hopefully that saddle holds up better than their rims. Seatpost suppository

the crux of the matter is this: i give you money, for the product you advertised, at the price you advertised it, and you give me the product in an efficient and timeous manner. we give them far too much leash because of their advertised prices. half of what is online doesnt actually exist in their inventory. the site prices encourage a physical visit, where everything is inflated, and they act like they're doing you a solid to even consider matching the online price. no other shop requires you to order, and then immediately follow your order up with a call (1 if you're lucky, 3 or more is normal). if you dont call, you never get your order. i understand their business model, but if they are going to carry on that way, they have to put more effort in.

Nice one @Keegan Murrell. I am sure you will be more than happy with your purchase, and no matter what you ended up with, you're on 2 wheels, so you've won already. happy riding, i am sure the bug will bite hard, enjoy it.

Decathlon have a lifetime warranty on the frame, bar and stem, and 2 years on components. Keen to be corrected, but isn't the titan only valid if you don't change components. Anyway, not to deviate, either will be perfectly suitable for Keegan as a starter bike.

another thing to consider is where additional costs may come from. i am thinking changing bar and stem to get the fit right. i think the titan comes with a standard width bar, which is quite wide and very flared. the Triban bar and stem combo's complement the frame size, as to the crank lengths

hey Keegan. on paper, my money would go in the direction of the Triban. Triban wins on the following fronts: groupset, gearing, brakes, geometry Titan wins on on: wheel size and thru axles the real downside of the Triban is the Quick Release dropouts. not the end of the world but upgrading wheels down the line may be a pain to find QR end-caps. it also isnt an ideal setup for a disk-brake bike. the rims are tubeless ready and you get nice chunky tubeless ready tyres. 650b tyres are harder to find if you're changing, but the hutchinsons are quality and will have a long life. the bike also works for 700c wheels (up to 42c) the sram apex groupset is superb. an 11-42 cassette and 40t chainring is perfect for gravel riding, and its reliable as anything. the TRP HY/RD brakes are also a neat option, the reliability of cables if you're out in the wilderness, with almost all of the power of hydraulic brakes. the Rear Derailleur can be pushed, and you can change the chainring if you want more speed (i went to a 44 up front on a similar setup) the titan is a slightly racier geometry, but the gearing is appalling for a gravel bike. an 11-28 cassette is not fit for purpose, and it has a boat anchor crank and bb (square taper). the wheels are neat, and depending on the shop you may get tubeless ready Vittorias (see if they have it on the side). some shops give you the garbage tyres. the tires also get eaten real quick, expect to have about 1000km tops. the frame is pretty much maxed at a 40c tyre. thru axles mean wheel upgrades will be easy, and they're just a better solution than QR. the rear derailleur and shifters are 9 speed, so you'll be fairly limited on gearing, but at least new cassettes, chains etc are super cheap. the derailleur will need an extender if you're going to 34 at the back. Microshift say 30 is the cap. the brakes are full mechanical and many will say they are garbage, but i have 2 friends riding bikes with those calipers and have never complained about the braking.