RossTopher

Ah, sad news. thanks for the update

i see even the bikehub article has been removed so many the powers that be, here, know whats up? @Nick and @Matt do you have any insight?

morning. anyone know what the current status is with Jonaskop. a friend said he heard the road has been close and no entry allowed. We've done it every december for a few years so want to keep the tradition going. Used to have the farmers phone number but I can't find it now.

decided to go for the Gravel one this year. glad i did as no Odendaal really dampens the attraction of the road race. it was already so flat, we kinda need that climb at the end to empty the tank

Checks out

dont let cables be the deal breaker. honestly, people make a whole big deal out of it and its nonsense. yes, they're not as good as hydraulics, but we've ridden rim brake road bikes for generations. friends do gravel and road races with cable disks. i run v-brakes on an old gravel bike. MTB'ers rode v-brakes for ages. what IS a deal breaker is paying over 20k for a bike with cable discs. that is daylight robbery. another deal breaker should be the crankset. Titan and Giant put those FSA omega cranks on there. Good luck finding a BB, and you'll need one regularly. PS. i saw a lovely deal on a Diverge go up today.

oh, no i worship at his alter so this is a safe space but he'd recommend sizing down, not up...

would love to understand how its easier to fit a bike that's slightly too big, than slightly too small?

@ChrisF i know you are quite experienced and have been on the forums for ages, so apologies if these are basics or repetition. at 1.75, you're sort of in between, but height isnt everything, torso/leg ratio, arm length etc. I'd always recommend sizing down. you can always make a small bike bigger, and a smaller bike with more exposed seatpost is more compliant, so your butt will thank you. Also, a smaller bike will likely come with shorter cranks and possibly a narrower bar. a 54 is not a 54 is not a 54. scott, titan, merida seem bigger than treks and spez etc in the same size. the bikes sites size guides are also generally garbage, and the salesmen no better as they just take what the distributor tells them. get on a few, read reviews etc. a friend got a Speedster Gravel. he is your height. bike addict folks said Medium. a year later he is thanking me for convincing him to go for the Small. the same crew tell me i should be on a 58cm. I am 188cm. I built a size Medium merida silex up with an 80mm stem, 44cm curvy Deda bar. fitted like a glove. smaller bikes are also more fun offroad. if the bike ends up feeling too big, you're paying for a new bar, new stem, inline seatpost, shorter cranks etc etc, and you'll be riding with a stack of spacers or a +40degree stem

https://www.triptychresources.co.za/bicycle-transport wouldnt bother with any other options. they are the best, and the process is fast

@EddieV when you unscrew it, do you press the pressure release valve? the foolproof method: make sure you have tight valve cores (this is in general, not just for this pump) so keep a cheap valve core tool around, many sealant bottles, valve sets and toolkits come with one. screw the hose to the valve first, snug but not overly tight, it doesnt need to be. Then screw the pump to the hose. go wild. when you're done, press the button, unscrew the pump body first, then unscrew the hose from the valve. depending on what you have, very few pumps match the lezyne ones for quality, weight, size and output, so getting anything else is a gamble in its own right.

https://online.entries.co.za/entries/findperson.aspx?pa=se&eid=5194

we have a very mixed bunch and are sitting at 11 (possibly 10 if the one warhorses injury doesnt come right). some may not finish, others may finish solo. depending on how we get split, it could be a 7 hour ride, or a 10 hour ride. its mainly about testing individuals endurance, mental strength etc, and we have no strategy or "roles". i know that doesnt sound too appealing, but we're doing it for the gees, the scenery, memories and kit. PM me if you are keen

excellent, thanks for the feedback

thank you, that helps a lot. sounds like its pretty much the same things that i like about my Bolt, but at half the price. no brainer.

@love2fly I have a friend in the market for a gps, on the lower price range. how are you, and any other people with experience enjoying the Roam V1. he mainly wants proper mapping and climb data. as far as i am aware, the Roam V1 has climb finder? he's maxed out at 4k, so its between the new Magene, the Garmin 130 and the Roam V1. I can't bring myself to recommend ANY garmin, and the 130 doesnt have the 2 features he wants, and the Magene reviews are few and far between, and not overwhelmingly positive.

You can't. Send to a friend/family member in another country and then to you, or use Aramex Global Shopper. But then you are paying double vat and higher shipping costs

As low rolling resistant as the Pirelli Gravel H is (and you wont find a bigger fan of the H or M), to do 200km of tar with them would be a waste. pop on a set of Cinturato Velo 35mm and you wont look back. tubeless, comfy, puncture resistent and good rollers. plus they look good on the wider clearance bikes. they are also more than capable (read fun) for basic off road if you want to rinse them until they're done

Before shortening the stem or finding an inline seat post, try get a Deda RHM Zero bar. They are cheap. Remember deda measure outside to outside, so their 40cm is a 38cm bar. Super short reach, shallow drop, great shape, a 38cm is fine for most men, that Raleigh probably has a super wide bar, as well as a long reach and general shape. If it's still an issue, then a slightly shorter stem, but wouldn't really go shorter than 90 on a road bike if you can avoid it

where would one find these? consider my curiosity piqued

according to 99 spokes, that ALR4 is going to have Apex 11 speed, and mechanical discs. its a great groupset, but its nearly a decade old, and 40k with cable discs - people need to be imprisoned for that. those current gen ALR's going on sale are looking great value in comparison

never used them, but i have been looking at a samsung tag. was thinking i'd tape it into my steerer or seatpost depending on size. if its for an MTB, check out the clever muc-off one that goes in your tyre heres a super handy video to remove the speaker so its not a dead giveaway for crooks

thanks Droo. I am still using the wheels, so have a disc rotor and cassette blocking any view of serial numbers etc. as mentioned, i was around 99% sure they are formula hubs, so it was mainly around what driver actually works for them. Specialized seemingly can't get stock and even online searches show very little availability globally, which makes no sense compared to how common the full wheelset is I contacted specialized and got someone to confirm they are formula, and the guy said the pawl design is slightly different so the DT 3 pawl wont work. its seems its the FH-528, code: S192100001. google searches show up a number of Canndondale and Bontrager links as well, so not sure if all 3 brands are using the same hub.

so... as the title suggests, i have a set of R470 wheels, the standard Specailized oem wheelsets that come on so many road bikes. Its got an XDR driver and i am wanting to change it to HG for a friend to use. the wheelset is currently on my bike and awaiting me buying a new wheelset, so i dont want to remove it, the cassette etc to identify the hub and figure out what driver is compatible. they're so dime a dozen, i presume many have gone down this route before. i THOUGHT these wheels Formula hubs, and its just a DT hoop, but i've also gone through bikeforums, reddit and WW before asking. and seen a couple photos that look just like a DT 3 pawl setup. anyone have any hands on insight on these wheels

How does this stack up? https://canyoncafe.co.za/products/canyon-lux-trail-cf-6-small-marketing-bike