Rick

Listen I'm already the only guy in my category who doesn't have shaved legs, I think if I showed up the a camelbak they might disqualify me No, jokes aside, I don't want to start a logic (camelbak) vs the world debate, lord knows there've been enough of those. I have a hard enough time sticking with the bunch as it is, I don't think I would be comfortable with something on my back while doing it. I have one and I use it for touring and MTB.

Your thought about the energade bottle was my very next plan. I would love to drink before, but I get serious nerves before races and I find fluids just go straight through me. If I don't take a leak in the start pen I have an issue. So it's a bit of a catch 22 :/

Is this comfortable? On Sunday I used one of those 250ml gel bottles in my pocket. They are good because they are flat or oval shaped. I just worried that a round bottle would feel a bit uncomfortable. Suppose I should have tried in training and see how it feels.

Hey I sweat quite a bit, especially when airflow slows on long climbs etc. My seeding has improved a lot over the last year and the early starts and faster pace have definitely helped getting through on 2 bottles, but not always. This weekend's Tour de PPA and also the Engen Dynamic last year were good examples. I hit about 15km out and i'm dry. I'm keen to hear if anyone has similar issues and have good solutions to carry extra fluid that is light, comfortable and reasonably aero. In short - how to carry more fluid without affecting performance (aside from the obvious weight). Thanks

it's still early and us capies are in the minority

Hi guys I might be on my own here, but I was very dissapointed to see that the PPA One Tonner and the Amashova are on the same day. After an entire winter off for the roadies in the Cape it seems absurd to have these events clash. Does anyone know if there is a reason for this? I really would like to do both events, and frankly as many road events as possible before the 94.7 and the summer season. Cheers

Thanks for the offer, but i have ordered the wheels already.

Thanks for all the advice. I have decided to go with the RS-30. I'm sure they will be ok for a while. Would like to have a crack at building my own some time so maybe I'll do one of Johan's courses and then make that a side hobby for the long term.

Thanks seeker, that's good to know. I've heard all good things about the aksiums, so i'll have another look at then. Edman, I've heard that advice quite a bit and I know it's the right thing to do, but frankly I just couldn't be bothered :/ One day I'll go down that road, but right now i just want to point, click, ride, forget about it. At this price, if they break, they break. I have a truing stand and I don't mind tweaking them now and again.

Hi guys Need some advice on a training wheelset. I have a set of Dura-Ace 7850-CL50 which I will use for racing. They are great for all-purpose, but I just want to save the braking surface - living in cape town takes it's toll with all the mountains. I want to buy a set of cheap (ish) training wheels. I weigh 95kg so I want something that's strong and stiff but I don't care about weight necessarily. I just want something that I can ride on anything without worrying. I'd like to spend between 1500 and 3500 (CWC or CRC/WIggle etc prices). I have looked at Fulcrum 5's, Shimano RS-30, ultegra 6700 (bit more expensive). Does anyone have any strong oppinions about a particular wheel in this range? Shot

I've read that a power trainer can put undue stress on your frame over time and that it's advisable to use a cheap spare bike for that purpose. Is this valid? The book was written in the 90s so I'm hoping frames have improved since then. Also, possibly this affects aluminium more than carbon?

Sorry I realise that my question was really long-winded. Short version: The SL-K chainrings shift like a pig, is the SRAM S975 much better of should I cork for a SRM DA 7800/7900 or the canondale as suggested.

Tank, sorry if my terminology is sub-par there. "standard" is the word I should have used you're absolutely right. I'm trying to gather info here from people who have experienced these products. There is only one compact configuration on the SL-K quarq and it's a 34-50 so I didn't figure i needed to spell that out. Likewise on the 10 speed, there is no 11 speed... Also, thanks for the advice on shifting behaviour, it's not really the problem I'm trying to solve right now, but i'll bear it in mind for when I'm next riding. If you have any experience with the shifting performance of the chainrings in question, fire away. Ta

Hi I recently received a Quarq FSA SL-K. In short: pedals-good, BB-good, looks-good, chainring-*** Now here's the problem, i swapped out a DA 7950 for this so chances are i've been spoilt but this thing is just flat-out unreliable getting onto the big ring. At high cadence low torque it's fine, but when the conditions aren't so good it sucks. This might not be such a big issue with a non-compact, but the thing with the compact is it allows me to have a tight ratio casette, so on hills i like to just swap chainring when i get out of the saddle rather than shift 4 down. Anyway, so here's the puzzle: 1. Swap the chainrings for something better. DA will not work, but i'm sure others are just as good. Quarq mentions a re-callibration, but only if you are changing the size of the chainring, so i assume this would not be necessary, anyone confirm? 2. Send it back and swap for the SRAM S975 crank. I have only ever read possitive reviews of this crank. I know the 53-39 is a red chainring, but i think the compact is a force. Can anyone comment on the shifting perfomance of these (specifically the compact)? 3. Send it back, get a credit and just go ape and get the SRM DA7900 once i've got some cash together. I must be honest I'm liking option 3 just coz it seems regret-proof, but is it over-kill, will the S975 be perfectly good enough? One concern about the SRM is this annoyance of sending it away to have the battery changed. Anyone with an SRM, please tell me what this process involves, where it goes and just generally how much of a mission it is. Thanks guys

Hi all I am installing an FSL SL-K light. Frame is 2011 roubaix sl3. I have removed my shimano BB and installed the Mega Exo. The shimano had a spacer between the BB and the frame on the drive side. The Mega Exo came with a wave washer which goes on the opposite side but without any spacers. I'm not sure if I should use the spacer I removed on the drive side?? I hooked the chain up to test the alignment and there is rubbing on the derailleur which would suggest the spacer should be there, or i must adjust the derailleur. This is my first attempt at this and it's proving quite confusing. I watched a video which stated 2 drive side and 1 non-drive spacers are required for 68mm shell. 73mm shell requires only 1 drive-side spacer. The installation manual on the FSA site makes no mention of any spacers though Any help will be hugely appreciated

Eish, that sounds bad. Any thoughts on the Rotor 3D perhaps?

Hi guys I'm looking at this crank-based power solution. From what I'm told this is a great bang for buck product. I'm happy with all the reviews I've seen on the Quarq itself, seems solid. What I want to know is if this is a good crank? I currently have a dura-ace 7950 on the bike so i really don't want this to feel like a downgrade. I'm hoping it's roughly equivalent. Anybody had experience with this crank? Thanks

Chubba - I am also fairly new to the road (cycling in general) and I have been determined to get better quickly. I have read several books, but my favorite so far is Serious Cycling 2nd edition: Link to amazon I'm not sure how seriously you want to take the road, but to break a 4hr on the Argus will most likely just require a better seeding and a little more endurance work. If your mountain biking is usually quick hard climbs and fast descents then what you are more likely missing is the aerobic endurance to be comfortable over a long distance. It's the easiest thing to fix, but not the most exciting. Basically you just want to get miles under your belt. Aim for 50-70km twice a week at moderate intensity to start, you can then increase with a bigger ride later on. If you race on most weekends (in season) then that takes care of your 1 long ride and you get so used to doing 100km that it all becomes quite routine. If you are starting now, I think you can safely aim for 3:30 rather than 4:00, assuming the weather is ok.

I rode it quite recently and there is one section that I think would trash a road bike tbh. Just too rocky, I battled on the mtb

Stev0, ulnar nerve neuopathy is worth taking seriously. If the numbness (needles) lasts for a week or more you need to sort your bike out somehow. I suffered from this badly and ended up taping a whole bunch of neoprene padding (wetsuit) to the bars. helped, but looked k@k. If you have a budget for some new bars i can honestly say these are from heaven: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=36074 Just remember, it has nothing to do with blood flow, it is pressure on the nerve. The nerve runs through the middle of your palm so it is unprotected at the wrist. Try shift the pressure onto the pads of flesh on either side and get gloves that have big pads on either side so they create a channel in the middle that is not making contact.

I'm thinking I'll skip the side-cutter How about the dt Swiss 465? Wheelbuilder.com has a powertap package with that wheel and it seems good. Also the dt 585.

20 On the back

Hmm, I got no tuna, but the bag was a total waste of time, as is the venue... There's absolutely nothing slick about the organisation. Much room for improvement. There was another post as well, but the concensus seems that this needs to move to CTICC like now. I'm also dissapointed in the cycletour website. Isn't it amazing that the road closures are not published on their site, I had to get it of cape tourism, honestly!? Also there is absolutely no discussion of where to park, how to get there, where to go after etc. etc. etc.

Well, go slower then, if you do it in 6hr you've doubled your value

I totally agree. The place is an embaressment. Shocking, and it stank when I was there too. I was at the 94.7 expo and I enjoyed it so much I was expecting this to be twice as good, but whilst the stalls were great, the whole place is a sh-hole. CTICC is a no-brainer.